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This Australian kite forum has an active thread on the subject.

http://www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Kite ... wer-strap/

Yesterday I was out testiong my DIY-version of this de-power system. I used 3 steel rings and no pulley. Everything work out fine althought i was out in VERY powered conditions. I was on a Switch Element 13 (first ride) and just wanted to test the UDS-system.

First of, I used 3 m of 6 mm pure dyneema rope. This means that at full power the whole system is just 1,5 m long. From the first ride this seams to be a bit short realy. When I depowered the steelring got so close to the bar that it effectively hindered any movement of the bar. So, experienced learnd is make the system looong and use long leader lines on the back lines accordingly. Further the use of three steel rings makes the system very hard to move under heavy load because of the friction. I´m now switching to at least one pulley at the top just as the zeeko original. Does anyone know if zeeko us a pulley at the chickenloop or just friction via steel ring? Would the system still work as intended if I use pulley at the chickenloop?

I also made setup using a tab with a prussic knot. I mad one red and on blue, for power de-power. Leasson learned is tha you realy need to have them connected (i did not) since when you pull the de-power down the other one moves away up the system and out of reach! OR if pulleys are used only one tab is needed to both pull and push. My system was impossible to push unless I whent downwind to reduce the forces on the system!!!

/Urban.

Telekiter wrote:Yesterday I was out testiong my DIY-version of this de-power system. I used 3 steel rings and no pulley. Everything work out fine althought i was out in VERY powered conditions. I was on a Switch Element 13 (first ride) and just wanted to test the UDS-system.

First of, I used 3 m of 6 mm pure dyneema rope. This means that at full power the whole system is just 1,5 m long. From the first ride this seams to be a bit short realy. When I depowered the steelring got so close to the bar that it effectively hindered any movement of the bar. So, experienced learnd is make the system looong and use long leader lines on the back lines accordingly. Further the use of three steel rings makes the system very hard to move under heavy load because of the friction. I´m now switching to at least one pulley at the top just as the zeeko original. Does anyone know if zeeko us a pulley at the chickenloop or just friction via steel ring? Would the system still work as intended if I use pulley at the chickenloop?

I also made setup using a tab with a prussic knot. I mad one red and on blue, for power de-power. Leasson learned is tha you realy need to have them connected (i did not) since when you pull the de-power down the other one moves away up the system and out of reach! OR if pulleys are used only one tab is needed to both pull and push. My system was impossible to push unless I whent downwind to reduce the forces on the system!!!

/Urban.

Pulley at the top seems to be the key to the one I have too.

yep, pulley at the top, doing it as we speak. Pulley at the chickenloop to is the question, anyone???

/Urban.

No, in the chickenloop it is only a small steel bar. Same diameter as the ring I guess.

ok, I'll test it with a pulley at the top only then. Hope it will reduce the preassure on the system enough to use just one push-pull tab.

Ok, I had a good look at the UDS-system today and have this to share for those who plan on a DIY-set.

Start with making new leader lines for the outside lines (steering lines). Make them AT LEAST 1.5 m long, from the bar ends. Now, the UDS-system needs to be the same length (1.5 m) at full power.

Why 1.5 m, then?
Well, here is the deal. A normal de-power system has an effectiv length of about 20 cm (more or less). Due to the fact that the UDS-system has 3:1 "gearing" means that in order to get 20 cm of de-power on the front lines one needs to pull the bottom ring 60 cm towwards the bar. This means that the bottom ring will then hinder any de-power movement on the bar, get it? So, you need a sufficiently long system to begin with. I will rearrange my system and make it 2m. Since there is no flapping of any straps when de-powering there realy is no need to make it to short. Further there is no need anymore to have different trim knots on the backlines up at the kite, one knot for the back lines and one knot for the front lines, perfect.

/Urban.

Guys,

Question! Without a hard stopper somewhere wouldn't you risk loosing the bar (i.e. getting pushed out of reach, especially if powered (ring furtherst away from body).


Also what CL's are you using? obvisouly you need the loop at the CL end to be slinding, right? Mine is not.

Could you post a couple of photos?

Thanks,

Mike

pity this thread died. Telekiters and Tautologies, did you give up?

Mikey wrote:Guys,

Question! Without a hard stopper somewhere wouldn't you risk loosing the bar (i.e. getting pushed out of reach, especially if powered (ring furtherst away from body).


Mike

The stopper would have to be located either on the bar or below the bar, with some kind of quick release mechanism, to be used in an emergency, to let the bar slide up the power line. I made one that goes below the bar, as I discussed in the thread: "stopper balls, the good, bad and ugly".

Maybe you could experiment with an old Best stopper ball, and thread it on the 2 power lines, below the bar. Maybe, you could put a little hook on the ball, that could engage a "mini-loop", like the North bar uses. Just something to experiment with...Or maybe, you could use the "noose" principle, and have a line that goes from the little hook through a hole in the stopper ball and squeezes the 2 power lines together, so the stopper ball does not slide.