Chicken Loop Bye Bye?

[pixelpedro]

I like your set up even though you don't have a safety line or leash, I like how you have the Oh Shit handels instead.
Imho, you could still improve by replacing the ss ring with a LFR.

Tnx topmick, yeah the oh $h!t is what I was using I was really digging the kite looping like crazy when testing the safety so I'm playing around with the standard front-line flagging system, after much searching, I ordered a trim bracket that will help me solve this. I 'F'ed up my last attempt tp a double lined center line rope, so I'm waiting for a new one.

BTW What is a LFR?

Quick question to all: one thing I didn't know about was if there was a specific design importance to horizontal separation of the front lines attached to my ring where the swivel would normally go? the original SS swivel has about 3" between the lines, I haven't noticed any difference but didn't know if it was made like that for as a result of design. Does any think this matters?

@kiterocky: yeah I think is more intuitive (for me of course) to pull the safety in than out

@rynhardt: exactly!

But ... although I'm making tweaks to keep testing out a few things, this bar is pretty perfect for me so far but any feedback and constructive criticism are welcomed as I'm trying to build the perfect bar and sometimes being to close to something blinds from seeing things.

Tnx in advance.

[alford]

To have the QR as a push away, simply reverse it, larks it to the SS ring on the bar with the mushroom pin attached to the ring on the slider rope.

[rynhardt]

Quick question to all: one thing I didn't know about was if there was a specific design importance to horizontal separation of the front lines attached to my ring where the swivel would normally go? the original SS swivel has about 3" between the lines, I haven't noticed any difference but didn't know if it was made like that for as a result of design. Does any think this matters?

I believe the purpose of the horizontal distance between the front lines at the swivel is to allow the lines to untwist more easily. Bigger distance means a bigger turning moment that the lines can exert on the swivel.
Reducing this distance should have no noticeable effect on the flying performance.
General consensus is that front line swivels above the bar work intermittently. I certainly have to reach up occasionally to manually untwist.

Low Friction Ring

[iriejohn]

This is bar far my fav thread of all time.

I've been messing around with customizing one of my bars. It started trying to drop some weight from it and make it simpler - with the least amount of moving parts - and is working super good.

This is probably my favorite thread of all time.

Except for the quick release...wrong way...come on

Personal preference, dude.

Not so. It's a safety issue because "push away" will always work because the "push away" in itself it creates line tension between the QR and the body.

By contrast, "pull towards" relies on having existing line tension pulling away from the body to work. In other words, if the line is slack it will not work.

[pixelpedro]

I believe the purpose of the horizontal distance between the front lines at the swivel is to allow the lines to untwist more easily. Bigger distance means a bigger turning moment that the lines can exert on the swivel.
Reducing this distance should have no noticeable effect on the flying performance.
General consensus is that front line swivels above the bar work intermittently. I certainly have to reach up occasionally to manually untwist.

Low Friction Ring

Cool, I wasn't sure tnx for clearing this up for me.

Not so. It's a safety issue because "push away" will always work because the "push away" in itself it creates line tension between the QR and the body.

By contrast, "pull towards" relies on having existing line tension pulling away from the body to work. In other words, if the line is slack it will not work.

WOW! VERY interesting and definitely something to consider didn't think about that little detail tnx for this observation I definitely need to rethink this a bit.

[iriejohn]

WOW! VERY interesting and definitely something to consider didn't think about that little detail tnx for this observation I definitely need to rethink this a bit.

Just turn your QR the other way around so that it releases off the ring on your rope.

Then if you want you can get rid of the ring on the bar and connect rope to rope, which means that the QR is attached to the bar.

[rynhardt]

Not so. It's a safety issue because "push away" will always work because the "push away" in itself it creates line tension between the QR and the body.

By contrast, "pull towards" relies on having existing line tension pulling away from the body to work. In other words, if the line is slack it will not work.

Sure it's unsafe. In the unlikely event that the kite exerts no tension on the line and he has somehow completely lost the ability of his other arm to tension the line. Sure.

Same as a push away release being unsafe, as it will not "always work'. In the unlikely event where you are dragged through seaweed which has wrapped around the top of the release and prevents it from being released away from you.

This is probably why Core thinks their twist release is the safest. Except of course in the unlikely event that you have completely lost the ability of either of your arms to twist the release.

The point is, no release system will "always work". Relying completely on your "always working" release is dangerous.
This is why we carry hook knives, right? So that when things go really pear shaped and even when you have punched out but are still tangled in your lines, you've got options.

[topmick]

Now using a LFR inplace of a pulley, much simpler/better imo.

[iriejohn]

Not so. It's a safety issue because "push away" will always work because the "push away" in itself it creates line tension between the QR and the body.

By contrast, "pull towards" relies on having existing line tension pulling away from the body to work. In other words, if the line is slack it will not work.

Sure it's unsafe. In the unlikely event that the kite exerts no tension on the line and he has somehow completely lost the ability of his other arm to tension the line. Sure.

Same as a push away release being unsafe, as it will not "always work'. In the unlikely event where you are dragged through seaweed which has wrapped around the top of the release and prevents it from being released away from you.

This is probably why Core thinks their twist release is the safest. Except of course in the unlikely event that you have completely lost the ability of either of your arms to twist the release.

The point is, no release system will "always work". Relying completely on your "always working" release is dangerous.
This is why we carry hook knives, right? So that when things go really pear shaped and even when you have punched out but are still tangled in your lines, you've got options.

OK, I should have said "safest". Oh, and FYI I carry two Trilobite Eezycut knives. Happy now?

[topmick]

How do you pack your Trilobites John?, I bought one but lost it after about 6 sessions.
Great bit of kit.