Splicing how to guide

[ragzilla]

This is a quick guide to splicing lines for making custom lines, pigtails, bridles etc.
It will take some practice to get your lines perfect lengths, but it's rather simple.
I do all my own bars, pigtails, line extensions, and I've never had a splice break.
These are called brummel lock splices, and unlike regular splices, the brummel locks into place under tension, it's far stronger than a regular splice.

You will need-
Measuring tape
Permanent marker.
Plyers.
Something long and pointy (I use a pair of skinny nose plyers..... it need to poke the line and create an opening for the splice. )
Very sharp scissors.
Screwdriver
Wire / piano string/ gear cable from bicycle/ d-splicer. - I use regular wire.


Step one-
Measure required length. The length is measured from the end of the loops, not where the splice is located. If it's a 2m length, it's measured from loop tip to loop tip.
- I've made mine 20cm for example purposes.

Step 2-
The point just measured (20cm) is now the very tip if your loop.
Create a loop at the desired size (I ussually make them close to 1.5", but compare it to other lines if need be. It doesn't really matter so long as the loop tip is correct length.
When you've got your desired loop size, mark both lines in in the spot you want your splice.
See diagram.

Step 3- now the splicing begins!!
Now you need to get your poking tool.
I use a pair of thin nose split plyers. But you can use a rope fid, or a hole punch, or whatever you've got.
You need to make a hole in the lowest point marked.... (this will be the exact spot of your splice so be precise)
See diagram.

Be very careful not to damage the line in there process. If you push the line together (opposite of under tension) the lines will be much easier to work with.
The hole you just made needs to be big enough to pull the line through. You might need to use some force to make the hole big enough.

Step 4-
Using your wire ( piano string, d splicer, gear cable etc) make a very tight loop.
See diagram

Poke the wire through the hole in the line and thread the line end into the wire loop.
See diagram.

(the smaller your wire loop is the better. You may need to get pliers and clamp your loop very small.

Now pull your wire so that the line is pulled through the hole.
You should be pulling your line until the marked spot for your loop is out there other side. This line pulled through the joke is now called 'the tail'
See diagram

Step 5-
This step get a bit tricky. Practice makes perfect. Some splices now thread the tail into the core of the line, and the sewn. but the brummel splice will now lock the splice into place.

Using the poking tool, now poke a hole into the mark on the tail. (this is the line thats poking through the hole)
Make sure you double check that your line length mark is at the very top point of your loop.

It should look like this-

The idea now is to pull the loop (larks head) through the hole in the tail by using the wire.
It takes some practice.
The bigger the hole in the tail the easier it is.
See diagram

Once you have the larks head through the hole in the tail, pull the larks head really hard and the splice will lock into place.
The locking part of the splice is complete.
There is no way you can pull out the splice.

Step 6-
The larks head is complete.
Your line length Mark should be at the very top of your loop, and the tail should now be pointing towards the other end of the line.
If not, pull the loop hard and try to roll the tail over. (I find small lines like the SS power lines struggle to roll over, but big lines are no problem)

All that's left is to finish it off nice and neat.

A regular splice needs much length in the tail so that once it's inside the core it has plenty of friction not to pull out.
The brummel splice is very different. It doesn't need as much length in the tail because if it's locking capabilities.
I ussually use 2-3" inches on the brummel tail, compared to 5-6" on a regular splice.

To finish it off, we need to pull the tail inside the core of the line.

Grab your poking tool and make a nice hole at the splice. If you roll the tail back a bit, you will see a split in the line. That split is from the first hole in the line. The tail needs to go into that split and down the core.
See diagram

To do this you need to find where the tail will end once inside the core. Mark about one inch from this spot.

Next, use your poking tool to open up the split underneath the splice ( it's directly underneath the start of the tail)
The more you open it the easier it is.

Now use your wire and slide it up through the core from the mark just past the tail end.
The wire need to go all the way up the core and come out of the hole underneath the splice.
Once it's through the core attach the tail into the loop of your wire.
See pic

NOW PULL DAMMIT!!!
I ussually use pliers on the end of the wire for grip, and I wrap the wire around the pliers a few times.
I also use a screw driver through the larks heads.
Hold the screw driver in my left hand, and pull with my right. Could be done easier if you have a fixed point to hold onto the larks head.
See diagram.

And there you have it.
A brummel lock splice.
It will take some practice, but eventually you won't even need to use a marker pen.

**note** this method works on all size lines, but is only for dyneema / amsteel.
This will not work for spectra or line using cover & core

Hope this helps.
Good luck and good winds.

[jj]

thanks for the awesome post!! I have an amazing old kite which has been parked for too long with a worn out bridle... gonna try this out today

[foilholio]

Sorry to pick on you, but that is way way more complicated than it needs be. Also from what I have read that style of splice is a lot weaker than the simple tail bury. You have the right idea with the wire though. I use much thinner solid picture hanging wire. It is good for doing flying lines and bridles but not the best for ropes because it's so thin unlike your wire. No need for anything else but a sewing machine or needle and thread and some scissors or a knife.

[t3rse]

It is indeed weaker but not enough in my opinion to matter considering how overkill the lines we use are (which is really to help with abrasion). I've never seen a bury splice on a commercial piece that would be up to muster for Samson. It's suppose to be buried 73 times the diameter of the line.

[Kamikuza]

No, the Brummel is as good as a "plain" tail bury; or very close to it. Some guy on a climbing forum tested them both to destruction . . . please don't ask me to find that thread again! All the Brummel interlacing does is stop the tail from slipping out when the eye is unloaded. No need for stitching . . .

To the OP: you can do away with the pliers and just use the pull "fid" to work a hole gently into the weave. You also need to un-invert the tail--in the tenth picture the tail needs to be pulled back up through its hole before burying it. It'll sit much nicer and the fibers won't be stressed. There's a way to do it earlier in the process too . . .

[Laughingman]

For those of you that prefer a live video...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JwITVYXL ... L-RQnz-Wcg

[jakemoore]

Thanks of the guide. I prefer just burying the tail over the Bummel. The tail does need to be longer to get enough of a chinese finger trap effect to hold the splice. The advantage is the splice can be adjusted (a little) to match line lengths. With either method, line will shrink as the splice increases diameter and shortens the length of the line. With the Bummel, you have to know exactly how much the shrink is going to be to match line lengths. I lock the splice with a stitch after flying the kite to tension all lines and rechecking the lengths. Finally, the splice will be neater if the ends are tapered.

[edt]

No, the Brummel is as good as a "plain" tail bury; or very close to it. Some guy on a climbing forum tested them both to destruction . . . please don't ask me to find that thread again! All the Brummel interlacing does is stop the tail from slipping out when the eye is unloaded. No need for stitching . . .

the brummel isn't as good as a class 1 splice. remember that climbers use stretchy ropes. They fall off the cliff and want the rope to stretch so they don't slam against the rope with a sudden jerk less likely to pull out your protection. Stretchy ropes like nylon will retain close to 95% their strength on either a brummel or class 1. dyneema tho we lose a significant amount of strength on a brummel and i would advise against it. Brummel is fine for leaders, chicken lines, safety lines all those lines we are about 10 times above spec and the reason those lines sometimes break is that they wear all the way through from abrasion. The power kite lines tho I would use class 1's on all the flying lines, centers that is. rears you can do a brummel if you like. about the taper of the splice you need to do a good smooth taper or you will lose about 50% of the strength of the splice. for the rears I will do a zacher knot, it's easy and adjustable. Not sure on the strength of a zacher knot tho, you can do a smooth taper on the end but does that zacher knot itself make the splice weaker, dunno. Centers i like a class 1 it's the strongest. as for the "overkill" issue that depends on how much you have snapped lines

[Kamikuza]

No that's not correct. The following says 80-90% in Dyneema (versus Samson stating 90-100%), but the loaded to failure tests I read through were within a few % of the stitched eye splice and actual rated breaking load.
https://ropeandline.wordpress.com/2011/ ... lait-line/

That's was early last year though, and I was convinced enough that I spliced lines and extensions for 2 of my Speeds. All still going strong . . .

The point that stood out in my mind was that the lines broke at the end of the bury . . . a proper taper is essential!
http://www.bethandevans.com/load.htm

According to Samson, class I vs II is about the material: Class II ropes are made in whole or part from any of the following high modulus fibers: Dyneema®, Vectran®, Technora®, and Zylon®.
http://www.samsonrope.com/Documents/Spl ... ce_WEB.pdf
http://www.samsonrope.com/Documents/Spl ... ce_WEB.pdf

[edt]

that sounds about right. from your link: "The Brummell splice, which when done correctly retains 80-90% of the rope strength; but requires more skill and patience. The Samson “tail in rope” splice which retains 90-100% of the ropes strength" I mean yeah it's not the 50% less strength you get for a poor bury but still that's a lot of strenght you are leaving on the table because you like brummels better. I might have the classes mixed up, I can't remember the proper nomenclature.