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Kamikuza
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Postby Kamikuza » Wed Dec 19, 2018 4:57 am
bragnouff wrote: ↑Wed Dec 19, 2018 3:46 am
Kamikuza wrote: ↑Wed Dec 19, 2018 2:04 am
I'll take over-engineered anytime my life is hanging by a string, thanks
Well... tell me how that worked for the original post then?
Worn out rope that broke, and it was impossible to assess its condition until it broke...
Either this breaks in a critical time, with life literally hanging by a string, or big let down and session over, (or kite holidays over, if Murphy's Law is at play)
Engineered with reliability and maintainability in mind should be the norm. Simpler is always better for that regard.
OP doesn't say where it broke. Plenty of brands use the same system. There are plenty of components on a bar you can't "inspect" and may fail without visual warning, like the chicken loop.
6 of one, half dozen of another.
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OzBungy
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Postby OzBungy » Wed Dec 19, 2018 6:48 am
I love love love plastic covered line. I've tried the bare line through the bar systems and they're just garbage. They wear out stupid fast. Even before they wear out they look stuffed.
I had one set of plastic covered bars and used them all the time for 7-8 years. The only issues were on the exposed pieces of line.
After a foray into other systems I have settled on late model Cabrinha Trimlite bars. All the line components are easy to inspect and repair or replace with homemade lines. I just made a long travel system using Cabrinha spares and homemade bits and pieces. It works beautifully. Replaced the leaders with longer leaders. New longer trim line. Easy as.
The depower line in question should be simple to make and replace. Dismantle the old one. Make a new line with a length of 3mm spectra. Splice some loops in each end. Pull the new line through. Reassemble. Go kiting.
If you have to ask how to do it then you probably don't have the skills to do it yourself. It's not hard to do but you will have to think a bit. You can do no-sew Brummel splices. I'm not a fan of those. I prefer a straight bury splice with a line of sewing to lock it.
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OzBungy
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Postby OzBungy » Wed Dec 19, 2018 6:51 am
I love love love plastic covered line. I've tried the bare line through the bar systems and they're just garbage. They wear out stupid fast. Even before they wear out they look stuffed.
I had one set of plastic covered bars and used them all the time for 7-8 years. The only issues were on the exposed pieces of line.
After a foray into other systems I have settled on late model Cabrinha Trimlite bars. All the line components are easy to inspect and repair or replace with homemade lines. I just made a long travel system using Cabrinha spares and homemade bits and pieces. It works beautifully. Replaced the leaders with longer leaders. New longer trim line. Easy as.
The bar system is probably more important than the kite. The kite just waves around in the sky and tows you about. The bar is the thing in your hands that you interact with constantly. It has a direct influence on the quality of your kiting experience. You owe it to yourself to have a nice kite bar.
The depower line in question should be simple to make and replace. Dismantle the old one. Make a new line with a length of 3mm spectra. Splice some loops in each end. Pull the new line through. Reassemble. Go kiting.
If you have to ask how to do it then you probably don't have the skills to do it yourself. It's not hard to do but you will have to think a bit. You can do no-sew Brummel splices. I'm not a fan of those. I prefer a straight bury splice with a line of sewing to lock it.
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windeze
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Postby windeze » Wed Dec 19, 2018 4:23 pm
OzBungy wrote: ↑Wed Dec 19, 2018 6:51 am
I love love love plastic covered line. I've tried the bare line through the bar systems and they're just garbage. They wear out stupid fast. Even before they wear out they look stuffed.
I had one set of plastic covered bars and used them all the time for 7-8 years. The only issues were on the exposed pieces of line.
After a foray into other systems I have settled on late model Cabrinha Trimlite bars. All the line components are easy to inspect and repair or replace with homemade lines. I just made a long travel system using Cabrinha spares and homemade bits and pieces. It works beautifully. Replaced the leaders with longer leaders. New longer trim line. Easy as.
The bar system is probably more important than the kite. The kite just waves around in the sky and tows you about. The bar is the thing in your hands that you interact with constantly. It has a direct influence on the quality of your kiting experience. You owe it to yourself to have a nice kite bar.
The depower line in question should be simple to make and replace. Dismantle the old one. Make a new line with a length of 3mm spectra. Splice some loops in each end. Pull the new line through. Reassemble. Go kiting.
If you have to ask how to do it then you probably don't have the skills to do it yourself. It's not hard to do but you will have to think a bit. You can do no-sew Brummel splices. I'm not a fan of those. I prefer a straight bury splice with a line of sewing to lock it.
Thanks for the reply. You've answed 1 part... The line thickness. Its the length that I need to get right.
Also is a spliced loop necessary.... How about a figure of 8 knot locking a loop around the triangle?
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OzBungy
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Postby OzBungy » Wed Dec 19, 2018 9:33 pm
No. The knot would be huge and probably block the sliding of the safety line down the tube. Why would you tie a knot? The whole point of splicing is that it is easy and neat and accurate and strong. There's lots of videos and threads on this forum about splicing.
As for the thickness of the line. Measure the old one, with a ruler.
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windeze
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Postby windeze » Fri Dec 21, 2018 2:53 pm
Your misunderstand me. The knot is on the triangle.... Not the tubing.
I can't measure the length as the line is broken... Or at least I can't measure it precisely.... I would like to be as accurate as I can.
I am really surprised and dissapointed that I can buy this line ready made as it looks like a relatively easy fix.
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badgb21
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Postby badgb21 » Sat Dec 22, 2018 7:45 pm
Why not just buy a new bar & lines? $299 the 44cm bars are even cheaper!
http://shop.watersportswest.com/2017-ca ... l-bar-2257
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Kamikuza
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Postby Kamikuza » Sun Dec 23, 2018 2:49 am
windeze wrote: ↑Fri Dec 21, 2018 2:53 pm
Your misunderstand me. The knot is on the triangle.... Not the tubing.
I can't measure the length as the line is broken... Or at least I can't measure it precisely.... I would like to be as accurate as I can.
I am really surprised and dissapointed that I can buy this line ready made as it looks like a relatively easy fix.
I've replaced 2010 Cabrinha bar main line that snapped at the triangle. That was a single, thick line -- old school.
You should still splice it, it's a stronger "join".
2015 bar is IIRC a "doubled" line -- a thinner line than the 2010 bar but looped back through the black tube. Two loops at the triangle, yeah?
So you'll also have to splice it in the middle of the tube or it'll rub on itself and snap. WILL snap, they had an epidemic with 2018 bars that weren't done right.
Seriously, just buy a new one. I would, and I could easily replace Amsteel with it all spliced up perfectly. Not worth your time -- it's relatively easy to do, but time-consuming and fiddly. Especially if you don't have the original specs.
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jakemoore
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Postby jakemoore » Sun Dec 23, 2018 4:36 am
Kamikuza wrote: ↑Wed Dec 19, 2018 2:04 am
I'll take over-engineered anytime my life is hanging by a string, thanks
If: Over-engineered
= safe tolerance to failure - Yes!
= unneccissarily complicated - No!
I simply can’t think of a reason to put this part on any bar I have:
- 284AABE5-7F10-4FDD-964D-9222651384A0.jpeg (12.82 KiB) Viewed 1441 times
Boing boing!
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pākihiroa
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Postby pākihiroa » Sun Dec 23, 2018 5:25 am
jakemoore wrote:I simply can’t think of a reason to put this part on any bar I have:
(1) It keeps the bar within easy reach for those of us that who aren't blessed with Neanderthal length arms.
(2) Under normal circumstances, it automatically puts the bar into 'neutral' by just letting go of it but allows the option of further de-power by actively pushing it away.
(3) In critical situations (think tomahawk) it automatically goes to full de-power (fully compressed spring) by just letting go of the bar.
I have both the trim lite and the over-drive/recoil/trim-strap style bars and I prefer all three aspect of the latter over the trim lite. Admittedly it is a bit heavier but the extra weight is unnoticeable when the kite is flying. Choice is good
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