hi pedro,
your drafting skills are pretty good.
the appropriate skin thickness for your 'boat' will likely have a lot to do with the fabrication technique you choose.
the comparison to kayaks may be a good application considering the relatively flat panels and hard chines shown in your drawing.
a quick search of 'stich n glue' or 'stripbuilt' or 'skin on frame' type kayak construction
would give you 3 different techniques that could get the job done.
they would also be a good fit for your wood working skills.
if you want to follow a more traditional surfboard type construction process, have a look at swaylocks.com
you should find examples for large home built SUPs or ocean going paddle boards
large Styrofoam (eps) blocks can be easily shaped and glassed.
the higher density cores (> 2#/ft3) can be glassed with a simple (non-sandwich) laminate.
likely to need only 1 or 2 plys of 6 oz glass
core less than 2 # density are suitable for sandwich skins .
some use .1" or .125" balsa with 4oz glass on either side.
some use .05" hard wood veneer skins with remarkable results
you can search swaylocks for "WMD compsand" to see what's involved
There is also a compsand.com forum with lots of examples
the benefits of the composite sandwich skin is the increase load capacity of the skin while reducing the density of the inner core and overall weight of the board.
if you take the idea to extreme, the board can be hollow as the sandwich skin gets more technical. A good example would be "aviso" boards with sandwich skins using carbon and structural pvc foam sheet core material. the skins need no additional ribs or stringers or Styrofoam.
if you choose something that is more of "boat" style construction, there is lots to learn from all the DIY moth builders.
http://www.teknologika.com
has lots of good building techniques for light and strong composite jobs
it all works, just pick the one that suits you.
have fun,
-bill