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good plan downunder

JakeFarley wrote:Gwicke, I would like to see the bar you made. Do you have any pics you could post?

Here is a photo with the lines wrapped up on the bar: https://goo.gl/photos/Qi9oJ65894k1dM7p8

On this one I used a titanium loop instead of a low friction aluminum ring. While the low friction ring is better than most production inserts, the coating still wore off fairly quickly in some spots, and the friction increased significantly once the aluminum was exposed. Titanium is harder & has a ~2.5 times lower coefficient of friction than aluminum, so should cause less wear.

You can get those handlebars in various designs on aliexpress.com. Search term is "carbon handlebar 9".

gwicke, nice job! Can you point me in the right direction where you found the titanium loop insert? And what's the diameter of it?

@omg, I bent some 6mm titanium rod over the kitchen stove -- it's easy once it's glowing red. The shape is a bit flattened, and the two ends stick out so that I could wrap the carbon around them (and not through the loop itself).

I added two photos of the titanium & aluminum ring in this album: https://goo.gl/photos/Qi9oJ65894k1dM7p8

downunder, that's good info! Nice to have different ways to build a bar. If the 320 works then that's magic, I believe it's this one, right? https://www.smooth-on.com/products/smooth-cast-320/

I would go with 310, 20mins pot life is better than 3

Also 310 has a nice vivid white color. This is all 1st hand experience.

You do not even need to drill the carbon tube (if scared of breaking it, but I highly doubt that). Here is a Red Bull R2L Winner 2016, Nicco's bar:

http://www.truespiritphotos.com/Watersp ... -RZrXtgb/A

There are a few other bars on this pics, have a look:

http://www.truespiritphotos.com/Watersp ... -sw67rvQ/A

Do I see this right, there are two depower swivels on the front lines on above pic?????

downunder wrote:I would go with 310, 20mins pot life is better than 3

http://www.truespiritphotos.com/Watersp ... -sw67rvQ/A

Do I see this right, there are two depower swivels on the front lines on above pic?????

It might be used for depowering without having to sheet out the bar??

downunder wrote:
Do I see this right, there are two depower swivels on the front lines on above pic?????

notice one is a pulley system the other a regular so he has a fine trim and a gross trim

Any ideas or pointers how to do it, please?

Two years ago I've done this one. 70 cm wide for a 18 mt foil kite.
carbon fiber wrapped on an alluminium core (tube) in order to obtain elittiptical profile.
Full carbon folded on the corner.








more photo on https://www.facebook.com/pg/Brucecreati ... 0693729096

I make all my own bars out of old SS parts.

But for a while now I've been thinking of getting a custom bar made.

Shits me that I have to have 3 bar sizes for best results.
And I'm a hater on all those guy adjustable bars. Overdrive etc is just more moving parts and more problems, and the other style doesn't achieve much. Works great for kites 10-12m, but nothing seems to do the job from 8m-17m.

My idea is to turn the bar centre into a clamp. A bit like a head steam on a bicycle.
A good stainless it titanium hex bolt should do the trick.
Same deal with the bar ends.
One quality hex bolt should be plenty.

-unscrew centre clamp.
- remove bar
-insert longer/shorter bar and tighten.
- unscrew bar ends
- attach back to bar.

Dunno about you guys, but if it cost me an extra $150 for a bar that could easily do my entire quiver, I'd jump at it.

The only down side is line lengths between kites, but easily accommodated by having the bar set with 21m lines, then keeping variable line extensions on the kite.