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Building a Plywood Shinnster / BRM Paipo

here you can exchange your experience and datas about your home build boards


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downunder
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Re: Building a Plywood Shinnster / BRM Paipo

Postby downunder » Wed Aug 30, 2017 1:46 pm

Jannik,

that's a beautiful board, congrats.

How do you 'profile' the top? With a router or something else? Interesting method with nice result. A lot of work though.

Would definitely glass it, with ie 100g/m^2, and a peel ply on top, plus vacuum. This would give a grippy surface with no need for cork.

D.

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Re: Building a Plywood Shinnster / BRM Paipo

Postby jannik » Wed Aug 30, 2017 7:20 pm

Thanks. Those are actually two different boards. First board was glassed with 2 layers of about 130 g. If I remember correctly. Two last pictures is of a board which started as linseed oiled only. That worked well until I jumped over a large wave. It split in half length wise. I restored it and laminated it partly with glass felt because 1: it is dirt cheap and 2: it is 35 g/m2. The only way these boards are going to break is if the fibers split length wise and I was hoping the felt was enough to keep the fibers together. Well it wasn't for long and the stuff is just awful to work with. I'm not finished with this board so I will restore it for the last time with 120 g e-glass.

As for the strength of this construction with glass you can fully straighten the nose rocker without breaking it. But if you run a healthy concave and land hard you will straighten the concave width wise which will pull the fibers from each other. That said I have tortured the first board for two years with only 1 repair. It is very strong!

Regarding tools I'm using an electric planer for planing the blank and a bosch gex 150 turbo for rough shaping, then hand tools. I have no vacuum setup for now.

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Re: Building a Plywood Shinnster / BRM Paipo

Postby geir » Wed Aug 30, 2017 11:07 pm

Two things I've learned the hard way: Use stainless inserts (snowboard ones dont bottom out) and cut sheet with top/bottom running lengthwise :)

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Re: Building a Plywood Shinnster / BRM Paipo

Postby icedub » Wed Aug 30, 2017 11:29 pm

jannik wrote:
Tue Aug 29, 2017 9:46 pm
I get all my rocker from the stringer. Wood is glued onto the stringer like this
gluing.png

and planed to a blank like this:
blank.png
Interesting! Could you show me what the stringer looks like before you glue anything to it?

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Re: Building a Plywood Shinnster / BRM Paipo

Postby jannik » Thu Aug 31, 2017 9:26 am

icedub wrote:
Wed Aug 30, 2017 11:29 pm
Interesting! Could you show me what the stringer looks like before you glue anything to it?
stringer.png
gluing-to-stringer.png

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Re: Building a Plywood Shinnster / BRM Paipo

Postby icedub » Wed Sep 06, 2017 4:08 am

jannik wrote:
Thu Aug 31, 2017 9:26 am
icedub wrote:
Wed Aug 30, 2017 11:29 pm
Interesting! Could you show me what the stringer looks like before you glue anything to it?
stringer.png

gluing-to-stringer.png
Fascinating! I had never thought to build a kiteboard this way but it makes a lot of sense. Do you have any additional photos or documentation of one of your builds that I could see to learn more and plan my own?

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Re: Building a Plywood Shinnster / BRM Paipo

Postby jannik » Fri Sep 08, 2017 2:28 pm

The honor of inventing this method should go to "Tungsten" who made a thread about it over at losethestraps.com.

Here is an album of images of a board: https://goo.gl/photos/ugWRkwg3SDq3D9dn8
Here is a boring video of the same board being ridden: https://youtu.be/1-WX_bmRIpo
On my channel there are more videos of that board and the other as well.

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Re: Building a Plywood Shinnster / BRM Paipo

Postby KrisL » Sat Sep 09, 2017 12:02 pm

Hi icedub,

Nice with a thread about Shinnster copies, I made a copy of our friends Shinnster about two years ago.
It was mainly for fun and I didn't bother much about top notch materials or so. But I have to say this board performs beautifully and has saved many light wind sessions :D

Used two layers of lauan plywood (3,6 mm each), glued them with PU glue in a jig to get the nose rocker (still holding up after two years).
I put a thin layer of PU polish on, to stop the wood from soaking too much expoxy resin (no idea if this really made a difference..). Then I glassed the top and bottom once and felt the flex to be too soft. So I put one extra layer of fiber on the top, turned out fine. By now the board was about 3,4 kg (original 3 kg).

Shinn_rocker.jpg
Shinn_rocker.jpg (20.59 KiB) Viewed 391 times
Shinn_laminate.jpg
Shinn_laminate.jpg (16.03 KiB) Viewed 391 times
Shinn_logo_front.jpg
Shinn_logo_front.jpg (16.1 KiB) Viewed 391 times
Shinn_bothsides.jpg
Shinn_bothsides.jpg (48.85 KiB) Viewed 391 times
For some strange reason I glassed before I painted :roll: so I ended up glassing a little extra in the end, so it is noticeably heavier than the original
I would say it is like faklord describes, very smooth but a tad bit heavy. The original is in the household as well, so ride them both and can compare side by side.
It was a fun build and the name was to crack up my friend :)

If I build a new board I would also try and get a hold of paulownia ply and make a lighter board next time.

BTW, since it's so flat I sometimes have a hard time localizing it in mushy small waves if dropped. I added a piece of sleeping mat (that can be attached/deattached with velcro) in the rear end. Makes it a lot easier to spot! Not very stylish though..
/Kris
Shinn_flap.jpg
Shinn_flap.jpg (14.43 KiB) Viewed 391 times

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Re: Building a Plywood Shinnster / BRM Paipo

Postby icedub » Sat Sep 09, 2017 1:52 pm

KrisL wrote:
Sat Sep 09, 2017 12:02 pm
Used two layers of lauan plywood (3,6 mm each), glued them with PU glue in a jig to get the nose rocker (still holding up after two years).
This is fantastic, Kris! Question: Did you cut out the shape first before gluing the two layers, or glue them together as a blank and then cut out?

Also, those look like some sharp edges! How did you glass them?
Last edited by icedub on Sat Sep 09, 2017 10:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: Building a Plywood Shinnster / BRM Paipo

Postby KrisL » Sat Sep 09, 2017 10:06 pm

I cut out shape before glueing. And had an offset between the two layers in terms of how the fibers were running.


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