I ordered some UHMWPE base material from Junksupply and made a few test pieces to see how well this stuff bonds.
The material I used was the Ptex Cross Sintered base 0.8/480mm CLEAR.
Did four test pieces. Two right side up, painted and unpainted. Two wrong side up, painted and unpainted.
Right side up means the sanded and corona treated side was used for bonding.Wrong side up means the structured side was used for bonding.
I used cheap rattle can paint. Epoxy paint would have been better.
We used vacuum infusion with a 50 deg C post cure. And some scrap pieces of glass and foam.
The wrong side up pieces peeled off pretty easily, as expected.
The right side up painted piece separated on the paint layer, i.e. some paint remained on the laminate and some on the base material.
The right side up unpainted piece, however, stuck like shit to a proverbial blanket. I had to peel it off with a pair of pliers and even then the base started to tear before I could peel it off much further. A sharp flat screw driver on another edge wasn't much more successful either, as pieces of glass came off with the base layer as I tried to lever it off.
Anyway, I'm duly impressed with the bonding performance. And the clarity of the bonded base is also pretty good.
I'm looking forward to using this stuff for my next board.
Four test pieces. Wrong way up pieces on the left.
Right side up unpainted piece, tearing off with pliers
Right side up unpainted piece, digging with a screwriver
Well, the plan is to use a cosmetic skin on top and the base material on the bottom. The cosmetic top skin is infused on glass to give a really gloss finish (this is done seperately).
Then the core and glass is placed between the base material and top skin, and we do the infusion. All that is left to do once it gets out of the bag is to trim the edges.
In the past we did the entire stack at one time, between two sheets of Mylar. Occasionally we would get dry spots or pinholes, which would take extra effort to fix.
I used some types of paints during my trials and all somehow reduced the epoxy's bond...Is better to use pigment in the epoxy to give colour... But if you need any colour with 100% opacity ..then you ay need to use alot which is not good. Still I bought once...a type of cans of only black grey and white colours that the opacity 1 achieved with a very little amount. Also have in mind white will be yeloish almost immediatly...
Ok sorry you say you will use skins..so the colour was only for testing probably...or you use it on bottom only? Trying to understand your process of infusion...it can be done only with foam core i suppose...so as epoxy to go through easily to bond the top and bottm skins? Ok I may miss something as I dont use infusion...but curious...
I used ptex 0.8 matt on bottom once..the material is quite hard..very good!. The only issue I believe is the weight! Otherwise this material is for riding rails and no scratches...Also be careful is not easily applied as is hard to bend..