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Grind base material test

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rynhardt
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Grind base material test

Postby rynhardt » Tue Sep 26, 2017 9:12 pm

I ordered some UHMWPE base material from Junksupply and made a few test pieces to see how well this stuff bonds.

The material I used was the Ptex Cross Sintered base 0.8/480mm CLEAR.

Did four test pieces. Two right side up, painted and unpainted. Two wrong side up, painted and unpainted.
Right side up means the sanded and corona treated side was used for bonding.Wrong side up means the structured side was used for bonding.
I used cheap rattle can paint. Epoxy paint would have been better.
We used vacuum infusion with a 50 deg C post cure. And some scrap pieces of glass and foam.

The wrong side up pieces peeled off pretty easily, as expected.
The right side up painted piece separated on the paint layer, i.e. some paint remained on the laminate and some on the base material.

The right side up unpainted piece, however, stuck like shit to a proverbial blanket. I had to peel it off with a pair of pliers and even then the base started to tear before I could peel it off much further. A sharp flat screw driver on another edge wasn't much more successful either, as pieces of glass came off with the base layer as I tried to lever it off.

Anyway, I'm duly impressed with the bonding performance. And the clarity of the bonded base is also pretty good.
I'm looking forward to using this stuff for my next board.
Attachments
DSC_0247.JPG
Four test pieces. Wrong way up pieces on the left.
DSC_0248.JPG
Right side up unpainted piece, tearing off with pliers
DSC_0249.JPG
Right side up unpainted piece, digging with a screwriver

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Re: Grind base material test

Postby TheJoe » Tue Sep 26, 2017 9:48 pm

Nice! I have been worried about trying to use this stuff because of bonding issues. It is not cheap either.

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Re: Grind base material test

Postby downunder » Wed Sep 27, 2017 4:14 am

So, your plan is to make skins? How would you infuse otherwise?

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Re: Grind base material test

Postby rynhardt » Wed Sep 27, 2017 7:52 am

Well, the plan is to use a cosmetic skin on top and the base material on the bottom. The cosmetic top skin is infused on glass to give a really gloss finish (this is done seperately).
Then the core and glass is placed between the base material and top skin, and we do the infusion. All that is left to do once it gets out of the bag is to trim the edges.

In the past we did the entire stack at one time, between two sheets of Mylar. Occasionally we would get dry spots or pinholes, which would take extra effort to fix.

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Re: Grind base material test

Postby Grkite » Wed Jan 17, 2018 5:51 pm

Hi,
I used some types of paints during my trials and all somehow reduced the epoxy's bond...Is better to use pigment in the epoxy to give colour... But if you need any colour with 100% opacity ..then you ay need to use alot which is not good. Still I bought once...a type of cans of only black grey and white colours that the opacity 1 achieved with a very little amount. Also have in mind white will be yeloish almost immediatly...
Ok sorry you say you will use skins..so the colour was only for testing probably...or you use it on bottom only? Trying to understand your process of infusion...it can be done only with foam core i suppose...so as epoxy to go through easily to bond the top and bottm skins? Ok I may miss something as I dont use infusion...but curious...

I used ptex 0.8 matt on bottom once..the material is quite hard..very good!. The only issue I believe is the weight! Otherwise this material is for riding rails and no scratches...Also be careful is not easily applied as is hard to bend..

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rynhardt
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Re: Grind base material test

Postby rynhardt » Wed Jan 24, 2018 9:17 pm

Grkite wrote:
Wed Jan 17, 2018 5:51 pm
Hi,
I used some types of paints during my trials and all somehow reduced the epoxy's bond...Is better to use pigment in the epoxy to give colour... But if you need any colour with 100% opacity ..then you ay need to use alot which is not good. Still I bought once...a type of cans of only black grey and white colours that the opacity 1 achieved with a very little amount. Also have in mind white will be yeloish almost immediatly...
Ok sorry you say you will use skins..so the colour was only for testing probably...or you use it on bottom only? Trying to understand your process of infusion...it can be done only with foam core i suppose...so as epoxy to go through easily to bond the top and bottm skins? Ok I may miss something as I dont use infusion...but curious...

I used ptex 0.8 matt on bottom once..the material is quite hard..very good!. The only issue I believe is the weight! Otherwise this material is for riding rails and no scratches...Also be careful is not easily applied as is hard to bend..
I've also tried paint and have had bad results, i.e. board delaminated on the paint line. Unless you have special paint, paint the outside only but not between the reinforcement layers.
We use a similar approach as on the top of the board, i.e. alutex backing (gives a reasonably opaque and skiny background) with polyester printed (dye sublimation) cloth.
The ptex is 80% transparent, so it looks a little bit milky but otherwise not bad at all.

We use resin infusion, and in the first pic you can see lots of little holes in the foam. There are also channels cut into the foam on the underside, to help with resin flow.
In the first pic you can also see the ptex underneath the first glass layer.
Lastly, you need to do an elevated temp (50-60 deg C) post-cure to get the best bond with the ptex.

Here's some pics where I put the ptex on my split board and the results.
Attachments
DSC_0010.JPG
DSC_0063.JPG

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rynhardt
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Re: Grind base material test

Postby rynhardt » Wed Jan 24, 2018 9:39 pm

Here's a wakeskate I built with the same ptex base and process as the split board.
The rails/kickers/obstacles leave scratches but never penetrate past the ptex.
Attachments
DSC_0166.JPG


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