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My personal opinion is you can get the same pivotal turning by simply moving the fin closer to your foot strap. The centre of my fin is about 10cm behind the centre of the footpad.
Then again, I don't really ride waves like plummet, and I prefer a loose feel.

plummet wrote: ↑

Mon Feb 12, 2018 5:41 pm

It doesn't need to be so assymetric that you cant ride it backwards!
My mutant is fantastic backwards. The trick is the binding location. A little bit offset, but not too much. Also if you move the rear fins forward a touch closer to the binding that gives to a tighter turning radius in the surf. It becomes closer to a surfboard feel.
I havent actually used nutserts on a board. I waterjet cut my inserts out.

Your mutant looks good plummet.
I've considered setting up one of my boards as mutant because I'm a lot better at jumping goofy than I am at jumping regular. Unless I set it for regular riding though, it's only going to discourage me from improving my regular jumping!

rynhardt wrote: ↑

Mon Feb 12, 2018 8:40 pm

My personal opinion is you can get the same pivotal turning by simply moving the fin closer to your foot strap. The centre of my fin is about 10cm behind the centre of the footpad.
Then again, I don't really ride waves like plummet, and I prefer a loose feel.

I know what you mean rynhardt, at first I was using really big fins on a bad board I was given then I transferred them on to my second design board. They were fine but when I tried my second build of the second design without fins I was amazed at that loose feeling, how I could spin it super fast to any angle I wanted on the waves. I could still cut up wind nicely because of the big concave but I found the biggest advantage of the fins for a high concave board was to let it grip better at an angle that would lift the front more to pop over waves. With the design in this thread I'll have to try it finless too, I've got lots of rocker and concave so I think fins won't add much to it's handling. If I need them though... I moulded a bunch of polyurethane ones from a mould off some I 3D printed so I can sort that too

rynhardt wrote: ↑

Mon Feb 12, 2018 8:40 pm

My personal opinion is you can get the same pivotal turning by simply moving the fin closer to your foot strap. The centre of my fin is about 10cm behind the centre of the footpad.
Then again, I don't really ride waves like plummet, and I prefer a loose feel.

I agree for small waves it will be sweet. But the further back the rear foot the tighter radius you can carve.

Center fin isn't enough doing a hard bottom turn on a fast lumpty big wave. It can pop out of the water and you can loose your edge.

Also offset footstance allows for less nosedive on the steep stuff. Again this is all relevant to bigger surfer. Head high or smaller who cares.

fluidity wrote:

plummet wrote: ↑

Mon Feb 12, 2018 5:41 pm

It doesn't need to be so assymetric that you cant ride it backwards!
My mutant is fantastic backwards. The trick is the binding location. A little bit offset, but not too much. Also if you move the rear fins forward a touch closer to the binding that gives to a tighter turning radius in the surf. It becomes closer to a surfboard feel.
I havent actually used nutserts on a board. I waterjet cut my inserts out.

Your mutant looks good plummet.
I've considered setting up one of my boards as mutant because I'm a lot better at jumping goofy than I am at jumping regular. Unless I set it for regular riding though, it's only going to discourage me from improving my regular jumping!

Why? I aim goofy ride out through the surf natural stance backwards and do 90% of my jumping off wave lips riding my mutant backward on my wrong tack.... Then when I ride back to the beach I'm goofy for riding down the line.

plummet wrote: ↑

Mon Feb 12, 2018 5:41 pm

It doesn't need to be so assymetric that you cant ride it backwards!
My mutant is fantastic backwards. The trick is the binding location. A little bit offset, but not too much. Also if you move the rear fins forward a touch closer to the binding that gives to a tighter turning radius in the surf. It becomes closer to a surfboard feel.
I havent actually used nutserts on a board. I waterjet cut my inserts out.

Why? I aim goofy ride out through the surf natural stance backwards and do 90% of my jumping off wave lips riding my mutant backward on my wrong tack.... Then when I ride back to the beach I'm goofy for riding down the line.

I'm quite annoyed that I'm not jumping ambidextrously but love the height I get goofy!
So I'm thinking about what you wrote, a mutant board has it's advantages for sure. Meanwhile I'll make the board I designed top of page 1. The warped cylinder I designed has some potential for carving a surface for a high concave mutant out of too, If I take a slice closer to one end.
Meanwhile I'm adding in a png copy of my A0 PDF for the other board I made as someone on seabreeze wants to make their own copy of an OR Mako and mine is quite close despite a different design process.

Progress! I wasn't happy with my huge concave so I stretched the board sideways, preserving the rocker but thinning the max concave to about 15mm.
Got the AO sheet printed yesterday, the board works out as designed to 400mm wide and 1300 long. That's on the small size for my weight (99kg) but intended. I'll need to move the foot straps in about 50 to 75mm though I think, to let the rocker work to self stabilise the board slightly more.

Cut out all my outlines today, routed some grooves in a wood spine and fitted all my forms.
Paulownia should arrive soon from paulonianz.co.nz and I'll start slicing strips and laying them out on the former.

Anyone else want to try one then print out my attached A0 PDF and get gluing and cutting. I'm releasing this to the public. There will be about 50mm overlap at each end on the intended form to form spacing of 140mm. For a longer board simply add one tenth of the desired increase in length to the form to form spacing.

I have everything to complete the prototype now.
Strips on the side are padding it out to the design width as my last normal laminating strips were about 5mm short.
I got some kwila wood to use for reinforcing around the rails.
Next:
First stage of levelling,
Cut in and glue in the kwilla rails,
Route and glue in the T nuts,
Sand the deck,
Glass the deck,
Flip the board,
Sand the underside,
Glass the underside,
Fit the fins, foot straps, handle, buy and fit a Woo socket and test!

So it works!
Pretty rubbish in 14m kite weather but it starts to shine with smaller kites and more wind.
I'm a bit on the heavy side at 99kg currently but I already have jumps around my previous highs from the first stronger wind day today.
The shorter length makes landings much softer and the rocker makes that off wind blitz and carve up to the jump so much more reliable. Definitely harder to get up wind but when the winds are strong it's still easy enough.

Nice looking board!

Nothing better than riding a board you built yourself!

rynhardt wrote: ↑

Tue Mar 27, 2018 9:21 am

Nice looking board!

Nothing better than riding a board you built yourself!

Thanks!
I already ground the rails hard up on the beach a few times today and the Kwila rail inserts make a big difference, I can't see any damage.
Great to have a smaller board option for stronger wind days.
I noticed that to keep it powered up and planing all the time I'm using more arm pressure on the bar, I think this is an effect from the bigger rocker. I'll be looking for lower bar pressure for my next kites.