What's your ideal size pocket board?

[plummet]

Give me dimensions and feature you would like in a compact hf board?

[Peter_Frank]

Give me dimensions and feature you would like in a compact hf board?

My "dream" board: Thin and light, and as short as possible (otherwise it would not be compact, but an overall board), but not too short as this has huge disadvantages even though possible.

A wide nose and loads of nosekick

This kind of board is the perfect waveboard and pocket board

For travelling you can go shorter yes, but it will suck at some things and not be "perfect" IMO, for other than travelling

Oh, wait - I got precisely such a board

(Ketos Pocket 118)

PF

[plummet]

Looks like a nice board. Why do you want a wide nose?

[Peter_Frank]

Looks like a nice board. Why do you want a wide nose?

To make as short and lively board as possible, that will not duck under the water when you go down forward or ventilate or stall, nor hit a wave if too low, and much easier to waterstart feels like a bigger board

Besides, you will like some width to have the 3 strap option if you want straps, and to be able to make fully foiling jibes both strapped and strapless.

PF

[plummet]

Cool I will work that into my design.

[windmaker]

From left to right and reverse chronological order :

F-One 156/47, really nice race board, light (2.9kg), difficult to waterstart and ride before getting up on the foil because of it's bottom shape (feels like riding a barrel), once you are up and going it is a rocket, does not slow down a bit on touch downs and very smooth. Very comfortable pad and deck shape but I think that it's thickness (7cm) dampens a little the feeling of the foil.

home made 136/46/ 4cm, still under construction , should replace the 130, has a little more rocker, a narrower tail (for smoother touch down) and bevelled rails.

home made130/46/4cm 1.9kg, my favourite board at the moment but got the F-one recently because it was not so good in light wind

home made 150/47/5cm 2.1kg really liked this board initially but wanted to try something shorter so made the 130

[Kamikuza]

You doing a dedicated board, Uncle Plums?

Looks like a nice board. Why do you want a wide nose?

To make as short and lively board as possible, that will not duck under the water when you go down forward or ventilate or stall, nor hit a wave if too low, and much easier to waterstart feels like a bigger board

Besides, you will like some width to have the 3 strap option if you want straps, and to be able to make fully foiling jibes both strapped and strapless.

PF

Seconded.

As windmaker said, a narrower tail for cranking over chop would be good, or aggressive chines.

...how about deck shape? Not 100% sure I'm a fan of concave decks or ridges...

[TomW]

Don't want to hijack thread.
On other thread I moan about my noob problem with T40 board. I was getting up and flying pretty easy on my low volume, 4-10, stubby surfboard convert in Mexico. So I'm going back to that board. I'm so used to the concave deck and low volume from surfboard. And it worked better for me in Mexico

And have an extra blank machined to the same shape. Think I will shape it out with flat tail so I can mount strut Plate directly on the bottom without my 500 g adapter, and associated drag it causes on touch down.

.
Tips welcome on shape of bottom.
Blank has 10 mm concave on bottom at center.
Should I put small 30-50mm wide bevel on rail/bottom? It will take volume from rails.
Just keep it as is? With or without bevel?
Like I said, I'm a noob, aspiring to freeride.

Plan to work on it, rainy/ no wind days...

Pics of Blank

[irwe]

Double Concave at Bow

JellyFish Custom

I researched making a pocket KBH for about 6 months. I couldn't find the perfect board so I had Terrie at Jellyfish Boards make one for me.

I am 72 kg and wanted something to play in the surf with. Coming from a SS Alien Air with alot of volume I still wanted some volume in the board. My home spot is always gusty!

Based on Peter's previous posts I didn't want to go ultra short (< 110 cm).

Here's what we came up with.

122 cm, X 47 cm
~21 L
Two strap set up
Enough nose scoop to bounce off water or the back of small waves.
GoPro Mounts Bow (top and bottom)
Grab rails for easy launching

Plate mount

[Kamikuza]

Don't want to hijack thread.
On other thread I moan about my noob problem with T40 board. I was getting up and flying pretty easy on my low volume, 4-10, stubby surfboard convert in Mexico. So I'm going back to that board. I'm so used to the concave deck and low volume from surfboard. And it worked better for me in Mexico

And have an extra blank machined to the same shape. Think I will shape it out with flat tail so I can mount strut Plate directly on the bottom without my 500 g adapter, and associated drag it causes on touch down.

.
Tips welcome on shape of bottom.
Blank has 10 mm concave on bottom at center.
Should I put small 30-50mm wide bevel on rail/bottom? It will take volume from rails.
Just keep it as is? With or without bevel?
Like I said, I'm a noob, aspiring to freeride.

Plan to work on it, rainy/ no wind days...

Bevel or chines on the rails are to give a flat surface for when you're edging the foil and the board touches the water. The idea being that the flat surface will glide over the surface more than rounded edges which tend to "stick".

I don't know if a small chine is better than no chine, but the Alien Air I have has smallish ones, and it is noticeably better than the other boards I've ridden with no chines. The most different board I've used was the Double Agent (Paipo type thickness) and while I have no specific memory, I don't remember it grabbing when it skipped an edge into the water...