Tips for drilling a board

[mcfly777]

Hey
I just got my new Moses foil, and the board that I will use with it is a Naish Hover 130. This board has holes that are spaced 140mm apart longitudinally, versus 165mm that the moses foil has. So I will need to drill 2 holes. Do you have any directions of tips on how to drill (and protect) the holes so that I do it right and prevent water infiltration? I read some topics here. I plan to put a stainless steel washer on the top side so that I distribute the force.

I overlaid the Moses T40 board with my board so I am sure that the foot strap position is still adequate and does not need to be moved. See attachment for where I plan to drill.

thanks
Leo

[TomW]

I would drill out holes 20mm diameter. Clean up around those holes, bevel edges slightly, clean with Denatured alcohol. If the Core is foam, I would dig out 2 mm leaving skins intact. Tape over hole on bottom and pour in epoxy to fill hole. Keep deck level. let cure at least 24hrs. Then drill your 6mm holes in the solid epoxy.

[cglazier]

I had to adapt an old Moses foil to a board somewhat like that. I just drilled extra holes in the Moses plate.. way easier than messing with the board.

CG

[plummet]

Yep as above. Except i wouldnt go 20mm if its not foam.

Also make a template up with in paint or similar. Print it (actual size). Stick it on and drill the template.

[Horst Sergio]

Hi Leo,

a friend did the same with a Foilfish when using with another standard 165 x 90 cm strut and it worked at least for some days as long we tried.
If there is foam inside I wouldn't drill out bigger holes as it is difficult to get connection of a new bigger spacer to the resin on top and bottom, think 2 mm is here not enough.

When I had the same problem with another board I had the chance to look inside the board to understand the positions of the reinforcements before drilling. But you will need a thermal camera (which you may get if you know for example a firefighter) and a big heat source with around 100°C surface temp like a wood stove, where you have to put a cold board in front and then around 20 sec later make a picture.

I have done it with the last board on the pictures but sold it when seeing how small the reinforcements/spacers where. But the guy who bought it, said he just drilled beside the spacers put very big and strong washers on top and it worked. Which may also be a simple solution.

Or do like mcfly777 says and drill the strut plate also pretty sure it will work but you may lose guarantee.

[Wielandt]

Drilled new holes in a Moses T20 board for bigger foilplate.

Bought a massive nylon stick 25 mm. Cut for pices in lenghts as the board thickness. Drilled Four holes new holes in the board and epoxy laminated the four nylon plugs into the board. Drilled holes for the platescrews in the nylon plugs. For extra strenght I laminated the top af the board with extra fiberglass cloth over the plugs.
Workshop perfect.

Good luck

[mcfly777]

Thanks everyone for the comments. My board is very thin, about 1 cm, wood core. So what I ended up doing is drilling a 7.8mm hole, filling with epoxy, then drilling it in 6.4mm, so the 6mm screw goes in clean. I will add a large washer (18mm dia) when I bolt it. So I have the board protected from water, and also the structure is intact. Hope this works. I thought that given that it is not a conventional foam construction, it would be best to keep the structure intact as much as possible....

thanks again
Leo

[TomW]

Should work

[Lev737]

Drilled new holes in a Moses T20 board for bigger foilplate.

Bought a massive nylon stick 25 mm. Cut for pices in lenghts as the board thickness. Drilled Four holes new holes in the board and epoxy laminated the four nylon plugs into the board. Drilled holes for the platescrews in the nylon plugs. For extra strenght I laminated the top af the board with extra fiberglass cloth over the plugs.
Workshop perfect.

Good luck

Hi!
I used the 1 in dia acetal road
It works perfect.

[evan]

Do the drill/washer thing on the two holes near the tail, the front holes get a lot more pulling-stress on the bolts when you crash/nosedive your foil or hitting the bottom. My washers on the front dented the board so much after a year that the top laminate cracked.
Now switched to a purpose build foilboard with heavily reinforced inserts on the bottom.