The ultimate test of "how good" you have become at carving, is how low can you go
So when able to carve around flying with say a 12 m2 in 7-8 knots, then you have nailed it.
When learning you need more wind and smaller kites - everything is easier then, work your way "down" to lower wind from there.
My take on how I do it:
Fly the kite relatively low, say 10 o'clock (about 30 degrees up), and ride as high upwind you can without losing speed.
Start flying the kite up, and immediately after the kite turn has been initiated - you carve around.
It has to be a simultaneously carve, while the kite flies up to 12, and when you go around board on the new tack, the kite dives down to 1 or 2 o'clock so you end on the new tack with kite down again.
It has to be a fluid smooth move, dont yank the kite, nor follow it, but do it in sync.
When you fly the kite up you avoid getting slack lines, and you can dive it on the new tack to retain power and glide.
Longer lines help immensely - you will get an even smoother carve with power all the way through even in low wind, with longer lines
And a tight firm carve is a must in low wind, think yaw to get it tight.
If you start to carve before you give the kite input, your kite wont turn and it will be a mess...
If you turn the kite around too much before you start the carve, you will end up with slack lines during the carve or on the new tack, and no power left to continue...
None of this is an issue in more wind though, but you will really find out how important it is, in less wind
Downloop carves particularly in low winds, is a very different thing though, and several techniques can be used for this.
PF