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The only Anodising procedure useful enough is Hard Anodising which from my experience is not that appealing to look at. But great as a surface preparation for powdercoating.
Once you go for colours it’s durability etc. goes down hill.

Clamping aluminum and carbon fiber together without isolation is a problem. The anodizing on the aluminum will not provide enough isolation.

There needs to be plastic isolation between the wings and fuselage and the bolts that secure the wings also need isolation via tefgel or lanolin ideally together with zinc washers.

At some point, the industry will actually learn common sense and stop using aluminum fuselages without appropriate galvanic protection for salt water use. Even better, steel, titanium, or carbon fiber fuselages.

Electrical isolation of the screws isn´t sufficient in this case. Even if you´d isolate the screw heads by e.g. plastic washers, there´s still the strong contact between the conical part of the mast (bare carbon) and the fuselage (the tuttle connection). With the µm-thin Al2O3-layer as the only isolation in between...
I believe a very thick anodization in CrO6 (chromic acid) would solve the problems. But this is time consuming and CrO6 demands high safety standards - overall very expensive.

1. Proper Al alloy, hard anodized.
2. Paint on top of anodization.
3. Lay up outer layer with s-glass or basalt plus barrier coat of epoxy on mast tenon that goes into fuselage. Same for wing attachment areas.
4. Good barrier coat of epoxy and/or paint on wings too.
5. Carbon fuselage not such a bad idea.

A hybrid stainless steel and carbon fuselage also interesting.
Or hollow, forged and welded, or 3-d printed, stainless or titanium $$$$$$$$$
Carbon just makes sense, but still $$$
Could one do a hollow titanium tube version of Levitaz stainless rod?

Anyone broke their aluminium fuse due to corrosion?

My white spots appeared behind where I applied the grease. They never reappeared after a few sessions and where easy to whipe off.

How about this for looking after customers.
mid day today, 27 hours after I fired off an Email to my shop, Boardworx at Whitstable,
Moses uk (Main man - Sean)sent off to me a new fuse, being the weekend it arrives on Monday, courier sent me a notice of delivery at 12pm today.
Blimey, that's a bit good.

Evan, sounds like you had a little excess grease.
Fuse failing structurally would probably take a long time, since loading is spread across tenon/pocket in fuse. Might lose some rigidity if screw holes got wallowed out.
crevice corrosion on the SS bolts would be a worry too...
But bumpy oxide zits on the fuse are not so chic, probably cost a knot or two of speed, and shorten glide.

Foil I am glad they are taking care of ya!

Don't tell me about excess grease, haha. But those white spots look exactly like on the photos earlier in the this topic.

I will chime in as a complete idiot. I have a 2016 Moses set up. The fuselage is painted. There is no sign what so ever of corrosion.
Then they anodized the fuse. Why??? Probably cheaper.
Painting required eching, painting with voc. Bla bla.
Now anodizing is looking like bad choice.

I work in consumer electronics. Anodizing is not seen as durable solution.

TomW wrote: ↑

Sat Jun 16, 2018 12:41 am

I will chime in as a complete idiot. I have a 2016 Moses set up. The fuselage is painted. There is no sign what so ever of corrosion.
Then they anodized the fuse. Why??? Probably cheaper.
Painting required eching, painting with voc. Bla bla.
Now anodizing is looking like bad choice.

I work in consumer electronics. Anodizing is not seen as durable solution.

if moses do not want my week old fuse back i will spray paint it with some Hammerite smooth gloss black i have, i used this expensive stuff to gloss up my year old pointy front moses fuse, that pointy front became bare metal after many sand bank collisions, reading the tin this Hammerite paint is just the stuff for the job.