It was a 'no wind day' so I decided to check the Speed system on my 15m R1. The images below show that there's a difference of about 40mm on each side. This is a long way outside the published permitted tolerance of 15mm.
I forgot to label ABC lines & will look to do that next time I have the kite out. There doesn't seem to be any way of adjusting the lines via knots. What are your recommendations please? Is it 'repair by replacement' or are there alternatives? I've not measured the considerable number of lines in the full bridle.
The kite was bought 2nd hand and is in really good condition. It seems to fly ok, but now I've discovered this, am intrigued as to whether it should fly better than it does if the speed system is zeroed.
I've written to both Ozone and the UK importer but have not had a response.
It is unfortunate if there is no easy way to make adjustments. In FS kites there is and there is also short "fuse" lines, which not only protect canopy but make it easy to untie lines from kite if needed.
You could first try to stretch too short pulley lines. If this doesn't work untie bridle lines from the too long speedsystem line and make shortening knot, 8-knot or overhand, 8 is usually better. Work on one side at the time, so if you mess it up, you can check from the other side.
Try to get everything back to original settings and symmetrical. But if primary and secondary lines are streched or shrinked, it may be possible to compensate in speedsystem. At this point its getting quite a difficult task and requires test flying and usually more adjusting.
In speedsystem B lines are "on top" of the C line pulley, so if you shorten C line pulley line it pulls B lines shorter too (1:2 amount of that). And everything is relative, for example if you need to shorten A and brake lines same effect is achieved by lenghtening B and C. Speedsystem line lenghts are not critical per se, but in relation to each other.
This is one of the major drawbacks of foilkites, they lose their adjustments and need some tuning. High AR kites are the most sensitive for their chord is so short.
I thought ozone used 4 bridle galleries. If so you are missing one of them measuring the mixer. You might be able to just adjust Z otherwise youll need to add a way to adjust B and C. You could just cut B and C mains off and and tie new ones in or there are any number of other ways to add adjustablity .
Exactly. Speed system or mixer is a complete system. You need to use A and Z together too set reference line. After that you can check B and C. Also be noted that speed system needs tension through system.
Thanks for all the replies. It's a sunny no wind day today too, so I'll see if I can investigate further.
I've done what is shown on the Ozone website, there is no reference to the Z lines and the photo shows only the 3, hence why my images show ABC only. So if there's a way that includes the Z lines, then I'm happy to look at that too.
I am working on a video on exactly this. I should have it done in a week or so, but here are some ways of dealing with this.
1) The destructive but more tunable way:
Pictures are from Dom Zimmerman. This is for a Frenzy. For the R1 you can cut the sleeved lines coming from the pulleys and make a knot on those, then larks head the Bridle lines onto the line behind the knot.
2) Non Destructive lengthening of the pulley lines:
What is essentially happening is that the pulley lines shrink as they get older.
So if C and B are shortened evenly then B will be halfway between C and A (See picture A). Then you can just lengthen the C pulley line with a pigtail that is twice as long as the distance C to A.
Picture B: Make a pigtail from 200kg line. Twice the length of the Distance C to A. In this example C to A is 2cm so my pigtail is 4cm
Picture C: Attach the pigtail to the C pulley line at the Front line attachment point.
Recheck your speed system. Make sure you pull the lines tight to make sure the knots pull together or else it will be longer than planned.
For those that do not understand either of the ways. I will have the video done soon, and it will be much clearer.
The kite will fly way better after you zero the speed systems.
That's great Gunnar. Thanks so much. The non-destructive way appeals initially until my knowledge base increases. I'm ok with splicing and have fids. So the more tuneable way will ultimately be my goal given the apparent tendency of these lines to shrink.
I'm going to be away for about a week anyway with work, so will look forward to seeing your video whenever you get a chance to make it.
Just cut the stitching on the loop and tie a knot. Its the simplest solution. Youll need a knot somewhere as everything needs adjustment from time to time. Foils do settle in though and hold flying characteristics. Although every one talks about aligning knots, they often need something other than alignment to achieve best flight, usually as they get older.
Success!! I went to the chandlers, got some dyneema and made up pigtails twice length of difference as Gunnar said. Both sides were 35mm out, so 70mm pigtails.
It was easy to insert pigtail and as you can see the 3 parts now line up. Can't keep tension on line and take photos. I've yet to fly the kite as there's no wind today, so can't report on changes to flying characteristics of the kite. I won't get a chance for over a week.
The Z lines are attached via the very thin yellow line visible in 2 of the photos.
Huge thanks to all who contributed. I couldn't have done it without photos from Gunnar. I've learned a lot and hopefully will have a kite that flies better too!