Stretching individual bridal sections?

[revhed]

Hello,
As winter is coming and I always clean, tune, control, all my gear, this time I now have an older 9m2 Chrono 1 to deal with.
Having already done both short and long mixer adjusts I find that all the bridal sections have shrunk different amounts
On one side measuring A1 (at kite) the middle, and the one that connects to the mixer is 8 cm to short as to stock, adding the 3 together.
By the way why do you call the sections?
Ozone lists,
A1 at the kite =
AM for the middle =
AR connecting to mixer=
I note that my left AM is 3 cm shorter than AM on the right!
I have read the "stretch" post using a pulley hung on a tree, but as I have a big warm space and time,
I ask ?
has anyone stretched bridles one by one, not taking them apart, using a nail in a strong weighted section of wood on a table with a tape measure on it??
I had considered adding pig tails at kite connections (96) and the 8 "R" sections, but quickly found that taking apart larks heads in such fine loops is way to time consuming.
Ideas please
It seems relative easy but time consuming to stretch each one but I have time.
I used to make kite stack lines this way and worked well.
Thanks
R H

[Mossy 757]

Hello,
As winter is coming and I always clean, tune, control, all my gear, this time I now have an older 9m2 Chrono 1 to deal with.
Having already done both short and long mixer adjusts I find that all the bridal sections have shrunk different amounts
On one side measuring A1 (at kite) the middle, and the one that connects to the mixer is 8 cm to short as to stock, adding the 3 together.
By the way why do you call the sections?
Ozone lists,
A1 at the kite =
AM for the middle =
AR connecting to mixer=
I note that my left AM is 3 cm shorter than AM on the right!
I have read the "stretch" post using a pulley hung on a tree, but as I have a big warm space and time,
I ask ?
has anyone stretched bridles one by one, not taking them apart, using a nail in a strong weighted section of wood on a table with a tape measure on it??
I had considered adding pig tails at kite connections (96) and the 8 "R" sections, but quickly found that taking apart larks heads in such fine loops is way to time consuming.
Ideas please
It seems relative easy but time consuming to stretch each one but I have time.
I used to make kite stack lines this way and worked well.
Thanks
R H

I think trying to rectify bilateral discrepancies by stretching Dyneema is a fool's errand; just my ever so humble opinion.

I'd recommend pigtails or replacement line sections, possibly even a full bridle/speed system replacement since it's a v1 9m Chrono. The wind range for that kite is pretty high, it's likely been loaded up pretty hard compared to a larger foil kite.

[foilholio]

It's not a fools errand at all, it is the only correct way to go about correcting any line length. You can add pigtails all you want, and cut and adjust etc, but unless you put some good amount of tension on those lines you actually will have no idea how long they really are. Having said that there isn't much practical about trying to restretch pulley lines and other thick lines etc.

To reply to the OP I think you are over complicating it. You shouldn't need to measure anything. If Ozone made the bridles out of prestretched dyneema they will stretch back to being even again. I never take the bridles apart to restretch them and I do them in pairs , but only tensioning one at a time for the restretching. You compare left to right and can apply more force to one if is a bit short. If you are consistent in your method they should mostly always match.

[revhed]

Bridal adjusting update posted for feedback and maybe ideas for others having older ram air kites.
Using the ozone bridal chart made a simple one of my own.
"A" is the reference and find the difference to B and C for each vert row.
Thanks to Gunner for "long mixer test" just taking it a step further.
So easy as only 12 rows on each side.
Unfortunate that TE K,Z,D has NOT the same lengths so can not be factored in!!!
Working inside in a large enough space connected all 4 pig tails after having set mixer A, B, C equal, and fixed firmly to the wall.
Easy to pull at kite to bridal attachment points and compare.
The average stock spec difference for A to B is 2 cm and I am within a half cm or so, good news!
And even better most all compared right side to left are very close, YES!
BUT,
The C is short an average 3 cm as compared to A so should be easy to lengthen at mixer and remeasure.
I do find a few that are out more than a cm and will consider adding pig tail to get better.
And knowing that TE K,Z needs to also be made longer to equal C also easy.
It is fun to really be able to see the profile and canopy arch doing this!
I will take Foilholios advise and gently stretch the side to sides but less so for the vert adjustments.
Anyone interested in photos of what I am discovering to do?
Again as always as there are is MUCH more experienced guys willing to assist any and all thoughts ideas more than welcome. THANKS!
RH

[foilholio]

Revhed I know this may seem unusual but all this ground has been covered and quite thoroughly and by many people before. Gunner did not invent the long mixer test, the people that did most likely did so before Gunnar even started kiting, I know they did before he touched his first flysurfer.

Unfortunate that TE K,Z,D has NOT the same lengths so can not be factored in!!!

Now of course they can be factored in. Neither AB or C is the same length. What you are doing with the long mixer test is comparing the current lengths vs the stock lengths for a section of the wing along the cord!, or for convenience their differences to a reference point and that is A. So for example level the mixer at ABCZ like for flysurfer or for Ozone you level the front and rear mains(pigtails). You pull A out at a point on the wing you move back on the same cord and compare B and C and then Z. Now as has been mentioned on some Ozones as it is with other foils too! the Z bridle attachments don't always align with the ABC on the same cord. Well just pick the closest and compare with that. Now you may end up with some thing like B -5 C-6 Z-12. So you go to your line plan and you add up all the bridle lengths to each of those points (you would subtract maybe 5mm for each join, but because we are only comparing lengths and ABCZ each have the same amount of joins don't bother ). You get something like B-1 C-2 Z-6 and then you simply correct for the difference between the two. Now I see a problem that without knowing the Z(PB1) knot connection point you have a bit of an issue calculating Z's length, but surely someone can measure this on a new kite and tell you. Now follow me on this lol, but the next best thing is measure your current Z knot position to the bottom of it to the C pulley line end and then measure your current C pulley line total length, then compensate the Z knot position by the same % the C pulley line has shrunk. That should be more accurate lol. Also know you'll need to subtract about 1-2cm for the larks head Zmain(KR1) makes beneath the Zknot. What a pity Ozone didn't make a join above the mixer that tells you the correct base point for Z they have one for A B and C, the marketing department must have told them not to do the Z one or call it Z, etc etc. If it was a designer, well I would say he should be ashamed but hey looking at inflatables it doesn't surprise me.

I will take Foilholios advise and gently stretch the side to sides but less so for the vert adjustments.

Where did I say gently? I use about 30kg on flysurfer regular bridles. If Ozone bridles are weaker than 100kg you may need to use less than 30kg, you'll know the limit when you break a bridle . If you restretch all the bridles you won't need the long mixer test. Well maybe you could still use it to help adjust Z for the mixer, but it is often better adjusted by preference for stability/upwind vs lift.

[grandeand]

I will take Foilholios advise and gently stretch the side to sides but less so for the vert adjustments.

Where did I say gently? I use about 30kg on flysurfer regular bridles. If Ozone bridles are weaker than 100kg you may need to use less than 30kg, you'll know the limit when you break a bridle . If you restretch all the bridles you won't need the long mixer test. Well maybe you could still use it to help adjust Z for the mixer, but it is often better adjusted by preference for stability/upwind vs lift.

hello guys,
every time I read, use the tree is a pulley with a weight ...
I just can not figure out how to do ...
any video or explain in more detail?
Thank you

[foilholio]

[grandeand]

Ahhaaahhhh
obviously this was clear.
I do not understand if you stretch the entire beam or bridle single.

[foilholio]

Hook the front and rear pigtails to the effort bit and then pull on the kite bridles at the canopy end, so the whole bridle not just a section of it. I wrote more instructions here viewtopic.php?f=197&t=2392935 .

[grandeand]

Hook the front and rear pigtails to the effort bit and then pull on the kite bridles at the canopy end, so the whole bridle not just a section of it. I wrote more instructions here viewtopic.php?f=197&t=2392935 .

Many thanks.
I read it with great interest.
I do not understand English well, and use a translation software, so some terms are translated wrongly.
Any video or photos would be perfect.
anyway thanks