ariel_cloud wrote: ↑Tue Jan 16, 2018 8:59 am
Mossy,
1. let out trimmer all the way, means lengthen the front lines right?
2. pull the bar against chicken loop, means sheeting in right?
These add up to give more camber.
Ariel
1. Yes
2. Yes
The way the speed systems and bridles work, they add camber to the kite in the final few inches of the range of bar movement because that diablo line and pulley creates a higher ratio once it engages.
A couple of friends of mine all got Elf Joker 7's when I did, the most common complaints I was hearing were the kite balling up into a collapsed mess going fast downwind. I think what happens is that the diablo line is a bit too tight or the rear lines a bit too short, and tuning that balance specific to each kite/bar combo is a bit more experimentation and tinkering than many were willing to do, especially in a regatta where you want to be able to get your "main bar" dialed in and then just switch kites accordingly. For someone that keeps a kite-specific bar connected all the time ($$$), this is a LOT easier because you can just tune that setup and leave it connected.
I tune my bar so that the rear lines are about 1/2" shorter than my front so it has some natural backstall at full power/sheeted in for controlling the kite in the air and in the water. From there, you want to get your normal speed system tune right according to Elf's numbers, then you want to check the Diablo system. With the bar sheeted out and through most of the power stroke at full power on the trimmer, it should not engage. In the final few inches of bar throw near the chicken loop, it should begin engaging. You can move the knots up and down to make it engage earlier or later.
If it engages too early, then you'll have this region of your bar throw that will forever be a TON of oversheeting and camber, which can make the kite unstable and why I think many improperly tuned Elfs have a habit of just collapsing out of nowhere. If it engages too late, then you're not getting the advantage of it and arguably not flying the kite as intended by the designer, leaving some portion of the performance envelope on the table.
My kite came from the factory with the Diablo line very much NOT engaged and it flew great, until I realized that it never actually picked up any tension when the bar was sheeted at full power. I adjusted it to BARELY BARELY engage and felt like I got the kite to pull back in the wind window further which for going downwind to the mark was an advantage. I never really got to tinker with it beyond there when I got injured, so there's lots left to test.
It's a labor of love, but when Elfs are flying properly they really are fast upwind, but unfortunately the Joker7 is no longer a good move for the racecourse so I'm probably going to be all on Flysurfer the next time I refresh my kites.