Looks like that setup doesn't use what we call "kook proof connectors." Kook proof means that the front connectors, for example, would be "male" and the rear connections would be "female." Then, your lines from your bar would have corresponding "genitals" to connect to the kite, making it impossible to hook the front on the rear or the rear on the front as you'd be going male to male or female to female.
Lots of foil kites don't use this system because there's more customization in how foils are set up. Flysurfer, for example, has this neat little ring system where you can make either connector male or female by either making a lark's head knot through the ring (female), or just using the ring as your stopper (male).
In this case, what you want to do is lay out the kite on a flat surface and start at the leading edge where the air inlets are, trace the top row of bridles back until you get to a terminal end. This is for your front lines, aka center lines. Then, starting from the trailing edge bridle, walk your way through the mixer/pulley system until you find the other terminal end, this is for your rear or outside lines.
This document is the line plan for a Flysurfer speed5, but should show essentially how all this stuff is run through: https://flysurfer.com/files/dlm_uploads ... LP-6-1.pdf
This document is the owner's manual for a speed5, but again, has diagrams showing the proper rigging and launching of a foil kite: https://flysurfer.com/files/dlm_uploads ... 016-07.pdf
You should also check out YouTube, lots of good videos there on rigging correctly.