Will the A9 drift better than the Flite?Regis-de-giens wrote: ↑Thu Aug 30, 2018 4:27 pmIMO you will not get more power from the A9 compared to Flite 10. My extreme lower end on large hydrofoil was about 8-9 knots with the A9 and is about the same with the 10m Flite in my memory (approx becasue never tested the far low-end as I switch to Pulsion 12m).
It is just that A9 will hang in the air with less wind and with less (no ...) rear line tension, so be more stable during the pure downwinds or slack line phases of unprecise gybes. But it will also loop larger than the Flite, which can be disturbing ; and still requires some rear line tension if you want to make it turn ...
So 12m or 15 m or nothing if you want to actually increase your low wind ; 9m envisageable if same wind as Flite is acceptable to you but more stable with slack line ( no fronstall like the Flite or most LEI)
olebarry wrote:I shortened B and C slightly using the mixer
I will keep trying to get the point across... but if you shorten B you lose depower. Better to extend Z for making more stable. And most likely you need to extend B,C and Z in ratio to get full depower again.olebarry wrote: then way too much power as I left the bar out through the power zone
Little weird, what happened to the speed4?olebarry wrote: 10m ultralight Aurora II from a local friend who had fitted the mixer system from an old flysurfer speed 4
If you slack Z more it should fix it. Depending how the tip is bridled, you could lengthen Z or shorten C or B , or if there is no A then maybe lengthen B. All depends on the cord locations at the tip. Shortening the very front and rear destabilize. More to the middle stabilizes.olebarry wrote:wingtip seemed to easily loose shape in the small lulls?
Sometimes you need to flip it first and it will then untangle. Other times you can pull on the good side to flag the kite or just a bit and it will untangle. Other times you have to swim to the kite and untangle it, best you learn this on the beach first. Generally timing and techniques to avoid and undo tangles is learned with time. Also getting your body tangled in line or bridles is very dangerous, wind lines up if you go to the kite.olebarry wrote: ended up crashing the kite and with a bridle tangle near the wingtip
I suspect the LCLs on Pansh arn't engineered right. Flysurfer uses ones far too strong now and bridles and parts of the kites tend to rip now. I generally have no issue with foils getting damaged in surf, as long as "disclaimer" there is no tension in the lines. If a kite is going to pull tension in waves I drop the whole thing, full release. I often release the leash in preemption of this. It may be time consuming to recover and untangle a foil after release in surf, but it is much worse to repair a broken one. Having sad that, my foils take a punishing no LEI could in the surf. I have repeatedly had some kites hit by 2-3 head high waves with full line tension and no damage. Not pleasant on me but a quick ride to shore.olebarry wrote: End result of this was two snapped bridle lines but the kite itself appeared okay.
Have some line and a knife with you and the cut and tie knots. Splices and stitching are not a must.olebarry wrote:Waiting now to get two new bridle lines
There is no magnetic blow off valves on the Ultralight is there?olebarry wrote:Just be gentle on them they don't like crashing.
Depends on what you consider better. It will drift in lighter wind and float slower out of the air. But it won't do so as easy. You will need to learn how to make it drift well, and as unsettling as it is for a LEI rider it does this directly above your head ( or the middle of the window) where it has perfect balance, you know that thing Thanos is on about.nothing2seehere wrote:Will the A9 drift better than the Flite?
olebarry wrote:I shortened B and C slightly using the mixer
olebarry wrote: then way too much power as I left the bar out through the power zone
Foilholio as always thanks for the informative responsefoilholio wrote: I will keep trying to get the point across... but if you shorten B you lose depower. Better to extend Z for making more stable. And most likely you need to extend B,C and Z in ratio to get full depower again.
olebarry wrote: 10m ultralight Aurora II from a local friend who had fitted the mixer system from an old flysurfer speed 4
No idea what happened to the speed 4 this guy goes through a lot of foil kites..foilholio wrote:Little weird, what happened to the speed4?
olebarry wrote: ended up crashing the kite and with a bridle tangle near the wingtip
Great advice on how to overcome tangles by getting the kite to flag on the good side. It all comes with experience I guess.foilholio wrote:Sometimes you need to flip it first and it will then untangle. Other times you can pull on the good side to flag the kite or just a bit and it will untangle. Other times you have to swim to the kite and untangle it, best you learn this on the beach first. Generally timing and techniques to avoid and undo tangles is learned with time. Also getting your body tangled in line or bridles is very dangerous, wind lines up if you go to the kite.
olebarry wrote: End result of this was two snapped bridle lines but the kite itself appeared okay.
foilholio wrote:I suspect the LCLs on Pansh arn't engineered right. Flysurfer uses ones far too strong now and bridles and parts of the kites tend to rip now. I generally have no issue with foils getting damaged in surf, as long as "disclaimer" there is no tension in the lines. If a kite is going to pull tension in waves I drop the whole thing, full release. I often release the leash in preemption of this. It may be time consuming to recover and untangle a foil after release in surf, but it is much worse to repair a broken one. Having sad that, my foils take a punishing no LEI could in the surf. I have repeatedly had some kites hit by 2-3 head high waves with full line tension and no damage. Not pleasant on me but a quick ride to shore.
Yeah in the future I will definitely be going for the full release option in the surf. Regardless 2 broken lines is definitely preferable to a ripped canopy so I think I got off lucky. I must look into getting some dyneema for the bridle repair so and keep it in the car..would 3mm be suitable? Too much drag? Current bridle lines appear much thinner maybe 1.5mm.foilholio wrote:Have some line and a knife with you and the cut and tie knots. Splices and stitching are not a must.
olebarry wrote:Just be gentle on them they don't like crashing.
There appears to be a magnetic blowoff valve on this model? maybe it isn't an ultralight after all but the fabric feels incredibly lightweight compared to a standard material speed 3 at the local beach.foilholio wrote:There is no magnetic blow off valves on the Ultralight is there?
I would agree that foils do seem to punish hard but so far I am loving the tiny packdown size, the lift for foot switches and the low drag feeling as I shoot upwind, can't wait to try the 10m in a 20 knots Twin top session for some big hangtime airs! Drift is something I have yet to get to grips with always worried about a frontstall in a gybe etc. Hence my downloops. I'll have to trust the kite to drift with me more once I get it set up well!foilholio wrote:Foils punish hard when flown wrong, with tangles and swims. That said I surf with them and slack the lines so much I can almost guarantee you havn't seen something like it before, even in vids. No line tension is the best for surfing.
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