Here you can exchange your experience and datas about your home build boards
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Bille
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Postby Bille » Tue Oct 27, 2015 12:26 am
foam-n-fibre wrote:Wow, there's been some great info on this.
...
Thanks for the great info
Peter
YEP ; These Guys are Awesome, and willing to share there knowledge !!! ---
It's So different here ; than on the main forum !!!!!
What's up, with that ?
Bille
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foam-n-fibre
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Postby foam-n-fibre » Tue Oct 27, 2015 2:14 am
I've found this forum and the board building forum to be great sources of info from really helpful people, and it seems to be continuing.
Granini, so are you saying that your core is also carbon and that it was all infused? I'm not sure what you mean by "rovings" - to me it is coarse unidirectional strands like string or rope. Also, are you really using a US box or an A box? The whole reason power boxes and tuttle boxes exist is because windsurfers were not able to properly handle high loading on big race fins with the old surf style box (even with the beefy Chinook boxes). I would think a KBHF has loading too high for a single US box.
GBH Riv, I'd like to hear a bit about how you laid that up.
As for sharp versus blunt leading edges, some windsurfer fins used to be made with the leading edge sharp right at the board surface, where it might be hitting more air, and blunt down deeper. For a hydrofoil, the problem is some part is always piercing the surface, but its not always the same part. Conventional theory about what is best when submerged might not hold true when piercing a surface. Of course people building these for years probably figured this out a long time ago.
Peter
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granini
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Postby granini » Tue Oct 27, 2015 8:42 am
I am using a variation of an US Box (Sroka). I have a sroka board and foil which I used as template. My mast is in 80 cm is 14 mm wide whereas the 100cm mast has 16mm width.
Vacuum infusion is used to prepare the two halfs of the mast with the previous mentioned layer setup.
After preparing and hardening of both halfs I add as connection layer for the halfs 1 layer of 400 gr biax + rovings + mixture of cotton powder and resin.
10 roving strings as stringer in the core + each 4 strings in the leading edge and trailing edge area. This is my roving material:
http://shop1.r-g.de/art/205105-T700
This means the whole mast is made of carbon. I potentially could save some weight and use herex as core material but the weight is no problem for me. With this setup I am even lighter than a Levitaz mast (1,7 kg) and have quite some more stiffness on all axis.
Cheers
Bjoern
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renaudbarbier
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Postby renaudbarbier » Tue Oct 27, 2015 6:31 pm
for no headache you can also get our cheap aluminum scrap mast (very popular item from our online store):
http://www.thekitefoil.com/#!online-sto ... y=12622627
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tkettlepoint
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Postby tkettlepoint » Tue Oct 27, 2015 10:09 pm
Bille and peter we all started some place ... I am always here to help others our and always open with what I do. I respect other people that are DIYers there are not a lot o us out there.
Can I call myself a DIYer ?hmmm yes but maybe alittle bit more advanced then others ( or I would like to think , but somedays my head is in my butt too) I have found some great friends over the years from here on the forum. And maybe someday we will all meet and get to ride other boards and FOILS.
like I said before if you need something just ask and I'll do my best to help out
terrie
www.jellyfishboards.com
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Bille
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Postby Bille » Wed Oct 28, 2015 7:47 pm
With the price of the shipping , it's gonna cost about $110 , to the USA ; that is
a Good price !!
I still opted to go the DIY ; and use carbon and Nomex honeycomb
(and yes , it's gonna cost me more to build it) . This might bad a Bad decision
on my part ?
Bille
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Denisesewa
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Postby Denisesewa » Wed Oct 28, 2015 8:33 pm
Bille wrote:
I still opted to go the DIY ; and use carbon and Nomex honeycomb
(and yes , it's gonna cost me more to build it) . This might bad a Bad decision
on my part ?
Bille
Not a bad decision at all, DIY is a fun learning experience ( thats worth the price of admission alone) and you will know what you have and what to do next time.
You have proven your ability to conquer and overcome so, go for it !!
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chrisrad99
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Postby chrisrad99 » Wed Oct 28, 2015 11:25 pm
Hi,
Go for it.... shaping nomex is a big challenge imho! There are lots of other options for core material which is easier to work with.
Airfoil tools is a pretty good source for profile sections -
http://airfoiltools.com/ and if you want to understand how water flows around your foil - javafoil is a free tool that you can use to analyze/develop/ modify your own profiles -
http://www.mh-aerotools.de/airfoils/javafoil.htm
--cr
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Bille
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Postby Bille » Thu Oct 29, 2015 1:38 am
chrisrad99 wrote:Hi,
Go for it.... shaping nomex is a big challenge imho! There are lots of other options for core material which is easier to work with.
...
YES -- Nomex is a bit fo a challenge to learn to use , (properly) ; do it wrong
and your guaranteed a skin separation.
Thanks for the javafoil suggestion ; i'll be looking at that one !!
I'm using the Eppler E836 airfoil , with a 127mm cord length.
Bille
Last edited by
Bille on Thu Oct 29, 2015 7:22 am, edited 1 time in total.
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downunder
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Postby downunder » Thu Oct 29, 2015 3:20 am
Some progress,
I've poured some colored epoxy into my mini tuttle mold for the first time in my life:) This is the result:
It bled a little on a side, next time will put a bigger clamp.
Anyway, very pleased with a progress. It also means I can fiddle a bit with my race fins (not that I'm racing
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