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When you build a board with plywood, use wood with plies that are thin, usually 1-1.2mm per ply: marine plywood, aircraft plywood, etc. "veneer ply" ,AA grades, "all veneer", are terms to look for.
The wood in the broken board here looks rather poor and cheap. The plies are very thick and different species of wood.
But you can get cheap plywood that is strong: Russian or baltic birch.

K-Roy wrote: ↑

Sat Aug 12, 2017 11:46 pm

"The laminated wood could be less then 15mm. as its a very strong construction..."

Well, I was wrong, so back to the drowing board.

K-Roy,

I think that partly failed coz of the weight unfortunately.

Duno how it broke, in the flight or crash, if it crashed, the leverage built by area and weight was huge.

As mentioned, I avoid cheap plywood by all means.

Cedar wood fairly glassed would be way lighter and quite strong with beautiful appearance.

Good luck

downunder wrote: ↑

Tue Aug 15, 2017 5:14 am

K-Roy wrote: ↑

Sat Aug 12, 2017 11:46 pm

"The laminated wood could be less then 15mm. as its a very strong construction..."

Well, I was wrong, so back to the drowing board.

K-Roy,

I think that partly failed coz of the weight unfortunately.

Duno how it broke, in the flight or crash, if it crashed, the leverage built by area and weight was huge.

As mentioned, I avoid cheap plywood by all means.

Cedar wood fairly glassed would be way lighter and quite strong with beautiful appearance.

Good luck

thank you for the advise!
It broke at high speed, when I hit a fish or something and crashed forward.
Like you said the leverage must have been huge.
I might try a very light carbon pocket board next for freestyle/free ride and stick to dedicated race board for speedy sessions.

cheers

Replacement foilboard until I can make a new one this winter.

@TomW: do you know the measurements of the foothooks (how tall and long)?

Replacement foilboard until I can make a new one this winter.

What is the blue thing on the board on top of the foil?

jaros wrote: ↑

Tue Aug 15, 2017 9:23 pm

Replacement foilboard until I can make a new one this winter.

What is the blue thing on the board on top of the foil?

It's a bit of plastic I 3D printed and screwed to footstrap inserts. So my back foot knows where it is without looking. I think it's a bit too tall so I'm printing a smaller one now.
Would have preferred a soft bump under the pad.

Rufusz wrote: ↑

Tue Aug 15, 2017 8:43 pm

@TomW: do you know the measurements of the foothooks (how tall and long)?

Inside dimensions : about 65mm, but hook is 75mm at open end.
Horizontal Length from base to tip 90mm.

I wish they we less open, length ok. I'm using 3 and 5mm booties.
But they work good to get board into position, then good to have big front foot toe on front base, sometimes rear foot in hook, but mostly a bit foreword. I'm still a noob.

I think I'll be a noob for ever on HF

Thanks a lot TomW!

Ok, back on topic. I'm struggling to get a session in on the new board and fit in family life + work.

I'm debating with myself to make a new board with either a machined and hand finished surfboard blank that is pu foam, regular shortboard density, or get some sheets of closed cell Divinycell in H45, H60 or H80.
I think the surfboard foam is 25-30 kg/ m3. The numbers on the Divinycell are the kg/ m3.
I've researched what density is used for toe-in boards - 45kg/m3. According to an Australian blank maker.

With sheets of Divinycell, I was thinking of gluing together 3 sheets of 10mm to form rocker, cut outline and then shape some bevels on the bottom rails. Otherwise flat bottom and deck.

On machined blank I can mill in deck concave and some dual concave in nose.

Any opinions on best option?

They'll cost me about the same.