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Need Help with using P-tex

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ap888
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Need Help with using P-tex

Postby ap888 » Tue Sep 25, 2018 1:52 am

So I have watched a bunch of videos....cleaned the scratches with my cordless drill with this plastic brush very well then cleaned with rubbing alcohol and got the technique dialed in close to board but not to close with blue flame and this keeps happening where it starts to crack and come out...any tips what am I doing wrong? Are the scratches to deep To fix..?
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kitejumping
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Re: Need Help with using P-tex

Postby kitejumping » Tue Sep 25, 2018 5:00 am

The ptex candles are easier to use but the repairs will rip out pretty quickly after a few sessions due to the wax that allows them to burn. It's better to get ptex repair ribbon (doesnt contain wax) and a ptex gun or iron, or even cheaper a soldering iron which you then use to melt the ptex in, you can heat up the base a little bit too for a better bond. Just make sure to do it in a really well ventilated area preferably outside with a mask on. Usually the ptex candles will crack and fall out like that after a few sessions. I got most of my repair gear from tognar.com A good ski and snowboard shop should be able to repair it too but if you go that route make sure they dont use ptex candles and have an actual ptex iron.

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Re: Need Help with using P-tex

Postby Craz Z » Tue Sep 25, 2018 2:26 pm

Those look kinda like core shots. I think what Kitejumping is trying to say is you might need a base welder extrusion gun to fix those deeper scratches. The best way to fix is to notch a v into the plastic to get better penetration kinda like welding then get a base welder and fill the spots. base welders are a bit spendy cheap kits are 30-40$ and a good base welder is around 200$ plus. A shop can charge 50$ for a repair so the math works in your favor to buy the right equipment.

I blow up a board every year snowkiting and use A LOT of ptex on almost every ride until the pow gets deep. It also looks like you haven't scraped or sanded the area after you ptexed.

I dont think you need to use that brush just clean the base with like a base cleaner or citrus based cleaner even alcohol as you need to remove as much wax as possible and get the plastic clean. then if its deep cut out the offended plastic and make a small notch with a razor blade. It also doesnt hurt to warm up the base with a hair dryer prior to applying ptex and try not to use a lighter(sounds like u did that BLUE FLAME) a propane torch would work better. the impurities of the wax along with carbon from a bic lighter put those nasty black chunks during the burning process.

after your done you need a sharp metal scraper and cut the surface off no ridges. Then follow up with a da sander or hand sand with a 80-120 grit paper. once you apply the wax you wont even notice it. As a base grinder which is AWESOME to have done is a fancy expensive drum sander

Once you hot wax and board scrape a brush is acceptable I use scotchbrite pads by hand and it looks glossy as the day you bought it. Rotobrushes are the best but they are spendy. expect to pay 150$ plus

Ptex will crack and candle like your pics if its not scrapped and ultimately if its applied to deep or thick it will also do that and eventually fall out like kitejumping pointed out. Ptex is for superfical scratches base welding is for more in depth longer lasting repairs.

A base grinder will melt most scratches away honestly after awhile i just throw the boards away and get another one. I never spend much on snowkite boards cause i thrash them hard im on my 10th or 11th board usually either 1 board per season if im lucky they'll make it 2 seasons and i wax and repair every time i go out.

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dirtybeach
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Re: Need Help with using P-tex

Postby dirtybeach » Tue Sep 25, 2018 4:50 pm

You need to use metal grip for that repair. It’s a type of ptex that bonds to various materials. It can only be welded in. You can buy a cheap low temp soldering iron for this purpose, make sure it has a flat tip.

I wouldn’t even bother with those repairs. If you want to improve speed, the best thing to do is get a stone grind done by a shop.

https://www.tognar.com/metalgrip-repair-string/

https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/ ... -p8651598e

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kitejumping
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Re: Need Help with using P-tex

Postby kitejumping » Tue Sep 25, 2018 5:31 pm

Since that snowboard base looks like a cheaper extruded and not sintered like the ski pic posted I dont think I'd even put that much money into it for a stone grind, just fill the holes with ptex ribbon (base weld) and use a super sharp scraper or planer to get it flat after.

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ap888
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Re: Need Help with using P-tex

Postby ap888 » Thu Sep 27, 2018 12:40 am

Thanks a ton for the replies appreciated. :D

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Re: Need Help with using P-tex

Postby zob » Thu Sep 27, 2018 2:03 pm

Oi!

This is how the first p-tex candle fixing job looks like for most people. Don't worry and don't give up. It's good practice to practice on small scratches, before you take your take on deep scratches.
I would say there was still too much yellow flame in your process, which results in higher temperature and carbon contamination.
Higher melting temperature results in material being brittle and high development of cracks due to higher material shrinkage. Contamination makes everything even worse.
If you do it right the material should have same characteristics as the candle before burning (transparent, elastic,...).
I do not have other suggestion than keep practicing. Try with different distance from the base, different angle, rotation and application speeds,... Once your flame burns only in blue, you should notice a difference in material characteristics.
Core-deep scratches and scratches next to metal edge are hard to do. They should be done in multiple steps in small quantities, letting it cool in between.
You get a very bad shrink on/with materials other than p-tex, so you might have to repeat the first layer on core until perfectly sealed, otherwise it is a real possibility the fix would get worse and worse along you go.

It if easier to fix fresh scratches (sharp edges) than old, rounded ones, and not all at once, otherwise it's a pain when scraping.

It is also obvious you overheated a spot on the base, which delaminated (whitish spot). ;)

Old opened candles are bad and should be dehumidified before use otherwise they just liquify when burning and the fix is totally brittle when cooled.

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ap888
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Gear: North Neo (17) 5m
Cabrinha Drifter (16) 8m
Flysurfer Sonic 2 -11m
Slingshot Hoverglide
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Re: Need Help with using P-tex

Postby ap888 » Fri Sep 28, 2018 3:09 am

Will these be easier to fix them..(pics) or should I just take to local ski shop get it repaired proper cause I never really scratch it anymore those where from hitting metal rails I don’t hit any obsticals anymore..
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