Dr Makani wrote:my $.02
KY, stop listening to the crowd, start hearing your inner voice. Surfing is natural! The more you think, the more you crash -
Ride with a setup YOU like and you feel comfortable with and gain some confidence. THEN put straps on/take them off, use a different board and PLAY ...
The equation is very simple: confidence = relax = good learning curve
Try to ride the waves a bit more off the beach, before they brake. Learn their dynamics, move with them and then come closer. Waves are like pretty girls: you try too hard, they'll roll you; you don't try enough, they won't play with you.
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