Here you can exchange your experience and datas about your home build boards
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sijandy
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Postby sijandy » Fri Jul 04, 2014 3:12 pm
On my latest board i put quite a strong single concave (0.8mm) and therefore giving me the opposite convex on the surface of the board. This meant there was a good few mm gap between the heel and toes of the binding base to the surface of the board, after much use and heavy landings the inserts have started to pull out. It's the first time i've had this problem and just wondering it anyone else has experienced this. You can also see the outline of the boots and where they have damaged the fibreglass where the boot heel/toe slams the surface after each landing altho this issue i'm not so worried about.
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downunder
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Postby downunder » Sat Jul 05, 2014 2:56 am
0.8cm ?
Are you placing extra FG through the inserts? I cut them diagonally:
- IMGP0063 (Small).JPG (94.93 KiB) Viewed 2856 times
Surface for compression is 19mm, height 8mm, M5:
For your damaged carbon, place some foam underneath, glue more for a desired concave shape.
Hope this helps...
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sijandy
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Postby sijandy » Sat Jul 05, 2014 11:44 am
Yeah sorry 0.8cm not mm. Cheers for your help but doesn't really answer my question. I'd like to hear from someone who also uses bindings as this won't be an issue for strap riders. thanks. I'll add some pics later too show what I mean.
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sijandy
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Postby sijandy » Sun Jul 06, 2014 8:23 pm
You can see in the pics there is a significant gap between the heel and the surface of the board because of the concave on the underside. I cannot think of any practical ways of avoiding this without using a press.
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dblass
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Postby dblass » Mon Jul 07, 2014 12:40 am
Try a piece of EVA under the heel to fill the gap and absorb the impact?
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plummet
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Postby plummet » Mon Jul 07, 2014 1:01 am
I don't use boots either. But it is easy to see the the issue. You have an additional leverage that you would not have with straps. That added with the concave gap has a twisting force sideways that the insert really isn't designed to take. As others have said. Put a shaped pad under the boot. That will stop the twisting force and kept it as an upward pulling force that the insert should be able to cope with.
If your insert has moving and loosened in the board then you will have to do a repair. If you have to go that then take the opportunity to add additional layers of glass around the boots for strength.
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downunder
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Postby downunder » Mon Jul 07, 2014 3:45 am
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sijandy
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Postby sijandy » Mon Jul 07, 2014 7:19 am
That's along the lines of what i was thinking. ta.
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sijandy
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Postby sijandy » Mon Jul 07, 2014 7:27 am
plummet wrote:I don't use boots either. But it is easy to see the the issue. You have an additional leverage that you would not have with straps. That added with the concave gap has a twisting force sideways that the insert really isn't designed to take.
Exactly, thinking a second row of inserts allowing two points of contact either side of the boot would fix it although adding extra cost, work and weight.
plummet wrote:]
As others have said. Put a shaped pad under the boot. That will stop the twisting force and kept it as an upward pulling force that the insert should be able to cope with.
If your insert has moving and loosened in the board then you will have to do a repair. If you have to go that then take the opportunity to add additional layers of glass around the boots for strength.
Yes for this particular board i just bodged some pads up but i was after a preventative fix for future boards as opposed to a reactive fix for this one. Downunders link above looks like a decent solution to try. Cheers.
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chrislandy
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Postby chrislandy » Mon Jul 07, 2014 10:13 am
That worked really well but I wouldn't have had to put so much pad in there if the feet were wider (34" from outer bolt to outer bolt) I've nearly finished the next one and it's not as bad as I moved the inserts out another 6", although it's still an issue. I'm thinking of making another pad as such but separate from the board to get sandwiched between the binding and the board so it's a little neater and not so heavy - most likely only a couple of layers of 200gsm with a few extra to thicken where required under the toe and heel.
If you're going to bond it to the board and sand down after (like I did) you need to use a 2ft sanding block to make sure the surface is dead flat and level over the inserts
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