I can't say what the learning curve would be like after being away from kiting for a long while, It took me about 4 sessions (an hour-ish each and pretty separated in calendar) to being able to get up on the foil and have fun - not long runs but 50m or so at a time. Its been a much longer journey to...

MehYam wrote: ↑

Fri Jul 10, 2020 10:01 pm

My kite no longer casts a shadow.

Hahaha love that!! I'm still riding and loving my 2012(maybe 13) Cab Velocity but as you say the shadow is getting fainter and fainter

My work email won't let me vote - but I am in for whatever way works best!

Ok - anyone reading this thread will get the point - regular snap shackle is very very bad news. Wichard snap shakle can be made to work reliably with mods. Without it can release unexpectedly. Windigo1 uses regular cheap snap shackle with a chicken loop quick release too - its just a convenient way...

This design was proven to be unsafe more than 15 years ago! Here's a pic! I only use it on the snow I had to release under load many times and I never had an issue maybe there are better ones but I have been happy with this one. If it breaks the kite will flag out and releasing has never been an is...

wichard is forged, most others are cast and as you say have springs and plungers that can corrode, jam with sand and generally misbehave. On boats I sail on we use the standard spinnaker snap shackles and at time they decide to be a pain to release - have to pull them very straight along pin axis & ...

With regard to keeping kite near 12. Or6 is right - in general you should be very careful in gusty and strong winds - keeping kite low. If you can’t hold the kite de powered and forward in the wind window low down near the water, then you likely have too big a kite up. When wind is very light you ha...

This is not a new 12m kite - I am not expert but have been kiting for a long time. Weigh just a bit more.
I will not use my 13m velocity (of same vintage) until 16kts. When new & on a light wind board it was fun at 14kts.

The bungy stops the hollow core collapsing and improves cleat grip. You could add a different core in the cleating section of rope if you did not want the puckering! Faklord's input was on the money imho! PS If you want something nice on the hands you could also consider a covered line and just do ...

I see no need to splice 2 lines together. You can just use one length of dyneema. As edt points out, braided dyneema “doesn’t cleat the best”. This is partly because it is slippery but also because it squashes flat easily. A remedy to this is to thread a bit of line (eg 2mm) inside the dyneema, ove...