I have a J Shapes 120cm freeride board as my main board. I started on a J Shapes 155cm board and kept it as a spare when I bought the 120. Lately I have been riding the 155cm when the wind is light and have found it to be huge amounts of fun. So stable and really good when riding on the surface.

The shrink wrap saga (snapping lines) was a result of heat affecting the strength of the line where the shrink wrap was applied... it was a disaster of an idea. The heat shrink I know of was used on kevlar lines. They're pretty much impervious to heat. It was the hard corner causing a fatigue spot....

You need to master every kind of body dragging technique so you can quickly adapt to whatever is happening. Board under either arm. Chest or laying on the board. Board flat and arm out straight following the board. You want to be able to do whatever you need to do in the instant you see an opening. ...

PS I have had lines snap at the end of the sleeving. Making any kind of edge causes a fatigue point that wears. Under no circumstances should you put heat shrink on lines. The edges of the heat shrink are quite sharp and cut through the line.

I cannot see the point. There are many dry bags on the market. People who want that can use one of them. For normal riding the last thing I want is extra junk attached to me. I have had a couple of long walks back recently, around 3km. I folded my kite with the bar inside and used the kite leash to ...

Normally you don't sleeve spliced lines. It is not really necessary and it is hard to get a tidy finish. It's easy to sleeve sewn loops, but splices are far superior to sewn loops. Far better than sleeves are spliced pig tails using 2-3mm dyneema. You can make preset length ones with brummel splices...

Getting brummels the same length is NOT hard. I've done countless sets with brummels, never without issues. The key to this is cutting all of the lines to the same length, and marking the line where you want the loop to fold. Once you do this, its easy to adjust the loop slightly right before you l...

To my knowledge there is no such thing as a single or double brummel splice. There are two ways of doing a brummel splice (pass the loop through or pass the tail through) but the end result is the same. You could measure the lines straight, then mark your brummel splices back from the cut ends and ...

To my knowledge there is no such thing as a single or double brummel splice. There are two ways of doing a brummel splice (pass the loop through or pass the tail through) but the end result is the same. You could measure the lines straight, then mark your brummel splices back from the cut ends and f...

The suggestions here are sort of good, but also a bit ignorant. Yes it is easy to splice. You need to practice and understand what is happening when you're doing it. Don't use the Brummel splice. It is almost impossible to do it accurately. There's no way to adjust a Brummel splice. You have to meas...