I've just got some, so will give it a go on the next build. How do you de-gas it Tom?

For years I've used SP115 resin for builds but it is a bit pricey so switched to easy composites EL2. It's fine for laminating but has been a PITA for hot coats. With SP115 I just brushed the board off and perfect finish every time, yet with EL2 it's as if I have a patches wax resist on the board. I...

Truly stunning finish, I love the different weaves you've used and the way you used the interlaced strips of UD. Fantastic craftsmanship. Thanks for sharing.

I should have added, I ride exclusively on the sea

Down under, after what you said about 304 I panicked and went to remove my straps and check my home builds. This one is two and a half years old. Should I worry?

https://snowboardmaterials.com/index.ph ... ng-inserts

Also bought from this place in US years ago when they didnt charge the ridiculously high price they do now for shipping.

https://www.boardbuildingsupply.eu/shop ... 8.5mm-x-m6

I'm in the uk, and have not found any suppliers there, so had to get them from EU. I tried ordering some last month but no reply so dont know if they're still trading.

Yeah, I usually cut a few notches in the plug to help. Also pass a lighter flame lightly over the ABS, as I once read it helps with adhesion...not sure about the science behind that though.

Finally, the lightest option. Cut 3cm diameter ABS rod to board thickness length and drill 6mm or 8mm hole depending on your foil mount bolts. Cut out 3cm holes in your blank and use resin and glass bubbles to fix in. Then laminate board with extra cloth patches over the area. When cured drill thoug...

Alternatively, install US fin boxes to allow for adjustment. Cut slots for the boxes and use resin and glass bubbles mix to fit. Then fill the box with plasticine or blue tac or wax before laminating the board (add several extra patches of cloth over the boxes. When cured cut through the laminate to...