Cheese, I just got my 130x39 custom player a few days ago, haven't ridden it in powered conditions yet but initial impression is it will be a great board for me. Dereck is totally open and will answer all your questions and have some for you as well. He builds a board for you, your input as to your weight, riding style and conditions are important factors in how he shapes your board. You won't go wrong with Dereck.
Tim
Dereck Camacho Kiteboards: Any review or experience
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danimal
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That's very similar to the dimensions I am thinking about for a custom player. Do you have any idea what the board weighs? I would be really interested to see a review from you after you have had a good chance to test the board.pleiku wrote:Cheese, I just got my 130x39 custom player a few days ago, haven't ridden it in powered conditions yet but initial impression is it will be a great board for me. Dereck is totally open and will answer all your questions and have some for you as well. He builds a board for you, your input as to your weight, riding style and conditions are important factors in how he shapes your board. You won't go wrong with Dereck.
Tim
Thanks
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pleiku
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Haven't weighed it but it is lighter than my 147 wave tray. I will post my thoughts after a few lit sessions.danimal wrote:That's very similar to the dimensions I am thinking about for a custom player. Do you have any idea what the board weighs? I would be really interested to see a review from you after you have had a good chance to test the board.pleiku wrote:Cheese, I just got my 130x39 custom player a few days ago, haven't ridden it in powered conditions yet but initial impression is it will be a great board for me. Dereck is totally open and will answer all your questions and have some for you as well. He builds a board for you, your input as to your weight, riding style and conditions are important factors in how he shapes your board. You won't go wrong with Dereck.
Tim
Thanks
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dereck
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Hi All,
Sorry I was not able to chime in earlier. I was busy holding onto my hat and my roof in the wake of Francis. It passed not too far north of me.. we just got power back today.. luckily, all is well and slowly getting back to normal... It was a big one..
Anyway, thanks to all who added info here.
To answer a few questions, I do use concave in my boards, I just do not use it from tip to tip as I find it stiffens the tips too much reducing feel, so I take it out under the footstrap areas. (I have more info about this on my web site)
To answer another question about weight, I just went into the shed and weighed a 130 X 39 (made for a pro/sponsored rider so it is made tough) and it is 5lbs 8 oz with pads and straps. (no fins) "Longy, that's your board mate! I'll be off to FedEx in the morning"
So, weight depends on the riders requirements, but with my construction method, weight is never much of a factor.
danimal, 130X 39 is a very popular size now with the style of the competing riders going towards more powered moves and requiring more pop. Everyone seems to be going back to 'one board does it all'
What's new? I am back to the drawing board due to the re-emergence of Bindings. To get the most out of a board with bindings I think the board has to be particularly designed for that. You can slap bindings on just about any board, but I think due to the increased leverage you have on the edge using bindings, there are some things you could change to MAX out your riding. Currently my Player boards are tweaked for the best feel and edging you can get in a board with straps, so not much has changed in that design this year, but as I said I am putting some effort into something special for those of you getting back into the boots. So, stand by for my findings. I'll post my research on my website after my testing is done.
Well, I did not want to wear out my welcome here with too much tech stuff, so I'm gone...
Thanks again for the support from those of you riding my boards.
I'll be glad to answer any questions here..
regards,
Dereck.
Sorry I was not able to chime in earlier. I was busy holding onto my hat and my roof in the wake of Francis. It passed not too far north of me.. we just got power back today.. luckily, all is well and slowly getting back to normal... It was a big one..
Anyway, thanks to all who added info here.
To answer a few questions, I do use concave in my boards, I just do not use it from tip to tip as I find it stiffens the tips too much reducing feel, so I take it out under the footstrap areas. (I have more info about this on my web site)
To answer another question about weight, I just went into the shed and weighed a 130 X 39 (made for a pro/sponsored rider so it is made tough) and it is 5lbs 8 oz with pads and straps. (no fins) "Longy, that's your board mate! I'll be off to FedEx in the morning"
So, weight depends on the riders requirements, but with my construction method, weight is never much of a factor.
danimal, 130X 39 is a very popular size now with the style of the competing riders going towards more powered moves and requiring more pop. Everyone seems to be going back to 'one board does it all'
What's new? I am back to the drawing board due to the re-emergence of Bindings. To get the most out of a board with bindings I think the board has to be particularly designed for that. You can slap bindings on just about any board, but I think due to the increased leverage you have on the edge using bindings, there are some things you could change to MAX out your riding. Currently my Player boards are tweaked for the best feel and edging you can get in a board with straps, so not much has changed in that design this year, but as I said I am putting some effort into something special for those of you getting back into the boots. So, stand by for my findings. I'll post my research on my website after my testing is done.
Well, I did not want to wear out my welcome here with too much tech stuff, so I'm gone...
Thanks again for the support from those of you riding my boards.
I'll be glad to answer any questions here..
regards,
Dereck.
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dereck
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yes and no..
Before I offer and make a board, I make sure it works.. I never do it because it is trendy or looks 'sweet'
Lets take side cuts as an example... or wingers (as they call it on windsurfers and surfboards). The main reason for them is not as apparent at first. The performance change is not actually gained form the side cut itself. What a side cut does is allow you to keep your rails more parallel for a longest part of the board length without affecting the width of the tail too much. So the rails are straighter for longer then they cut back in, normally at a point where the wider straighter rails is no longer needed for the design, to then resume the width tail that is wanted. If you ran the newer more parallel rails all the way back you would end up with a very wide tail which will effect the performance as well.. So, the side cut allows you to keep a straighter line along the rail and this is what effects the performance, not the cut out. The cut is just a way to transition it back to a normal tail. So far I have not found a reason for it on a kite board. It works great on surfboards and windsurfers. But in kiteboards, the tails are already quite wide so I can achieve the rail lines without having to put cuts in it to straighten the rails.
Same thing goes for tails too.... The main point of a tail is for water release. And that is best achieved with a simple straight edge. V' tails, cutout tail etc, do not effect the board much because most of the results happen behind the board so it does not effect performance. You would put a v' tail of a swallow' tail in a surfboard to reduce the area behind the center of effort (behind the back foot) to allow you to burry the tail a bit more. And the cut of the swallow reduces area without reducing the rail length. Rail length is critical here. So basically what you are going after here is maintaining the rail length (or even increasing it) but reducing the area of the tail and that allows you to have more control without bouncing out. However, in a kite board the forces are different. If you want to reduce area you can take a 1 CM or 2 off and you have the reduction you need. Rail length is not as important here (you can see this by the different length boards different riders use) Go back a bit.. The pickle fork tracked really well because the rail length was kept long and drawn out, but because of the cut out, there was less area so the board rode deeper in the water which increased the amount of rail in the water. This increased rail length made it track better. Maybe with the larger boards demanded recently ( 130 X 40 to 43cm wide) for use with bindings and the added edging you get from bindings, there may be a need to keep some rail length without increasing the tail area too much so I may be doing some testing on a slight swallow cut out in the tail... (work in progress)
So, if I was to just put a cool looking tail on a board with some side cuts, I would have to do lots of research first to prove that I am getting the performance increase I need. Other wise I would not do it. So far in kiteboards, generally, simplicity has worked. But trust me, I am (and will continue) trying different tails, rail shapes and rocker lines. But I want to be sure that if you see one of my boards, that it is a proven design and not a gimmick.
Hope I have not bored you with too much details. Thanks for the question.
regards,
Dereck.
Before I offer and make a board, I make sure it works.. I never do it because it is trendy or looks 'sweet'
Lets take side cuts as an example... or wingers (as they call it on windsurfers and surfboards). The main reason for them is not as apparent at first. The performance change is not actually gained form the side cut itself. What a side cut does is allow you to keep your rails more parallel for a longest part of the board length without affecting the width of the tail too much. So the rails are straighter for longer then they cut back in, normally at a point where the wider straighter rails is no longer needed for the design, to then resume the width tail that is wanted. If you ran the newer more parallel rails all the way back you would end up with a very wide tail which will effect the performance as well.. So, the side cut allows you to keep a straighter line along the rail and this is what effects the performance, not the cut out. The cut is just a way to transition it back to a normal tail. So far I have not found a reason for it on a kite board. It works great on surfboards and windsurfers. But in kiteboards, the tails are already quite wide so I can achieve the rail lines without having to put cuts in it to straighten the rails.
Same thing goes for tails too.... The main point of a tail is for water release. And that is best achieved with a simple straight edge. V' tails, cutout tail etc, do not effect the board much because most of the results happen behind the board so it does not effect performance. You would put a v' tail of a swallow' tail in a surfboard to reduce the area behind the center of effort (behind the back foot) to allow you to burry the tail a bit more. And the cut of the swallow reduces area without reducing the rail length. Rail length is critical here. So basically what you are going after here is maintaining the rail length (or even increasing it) but reducing the area of the tail and that allows you to have more control without bouncing out. However, in a kite board the forces are different. If you want to reduce area you can take a 1 CM or 2 off and you have the reduction you need. Rail length is not as important here (you can see this by the different length boards different riders use) Go back a bit.. The pickle fork tracked really well because the rail length was kept long and drawn out, but because of the cut out, there was less area so the board rode deeper in the water which increased the amount of rail in the water. This increased rail length made it track better. Maybe with the larger boards demanded recently ( 130 X 40 to 43cm wide) for use with bindings and the added edging you get from bindings, there may be a need to keep some rail length without increasing the tail area too much so I may be doing some testing on a slight swallow cut out in the tail... (work in progress)
So, if I was to just put a cool looking tail on a board with some side cuts, I would have to do lots of research first to prove that I am getting the performance increase I need. Other wise I would not do it. So far in kiteboards, generally, simplicity has worked. But trust me, I am (and will continue) trying different tails, rail shapes and rocker lines. But I want to be sure that if you see one of my boards, that it is a proven design and not a gimmick.
Hope I have not bored you with too much details. Thanks for the question.
regards,
Dereck.
-
pleiku
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I have had a chance to ride my new DC player well powered up and I think I am experiencing first time teenage love again! Man, that feels good. I got the board with 2 1/2" RFC atac fins and it rode well with those but was a little sticky for my style, went to windward like hell though. Put 1 3/4" RFC kite fins on and is now loose and slashy. Rode in smooth flat water, current driven chop and 4 -5ft. ocean waves, was sweet and mannered in all those conditions. Loads up nicely for big jumps, just instills confidence. Water release off leeward rail is hypnotic, DC knows how to shape a rail. I am 6ft., 185lbs., two and a half years kiting and no connection to Dereck. Previous boards-147 Underground WT- 157 SS Jarvis- All that riding- Chatham, Cape Coddanimal wrote:That's very similar to the dimensions I am thinking about for a custom player. Do you have any idea what the board weighs? I would be really interested to see a review from you after you have had a good chance to test the board.pleiku wrote:Cheese, I just got my 130x39 custom player a few days ago, haven't ridden it in powered conditions yet but initial impression is it will be a great board for me. Dereck is totally open and will answer all your questions and have some for you as well. He builds a board for you, your input as to your weight, riding style and conditions are important factors in how he shapes your board. You won't go wrong with Dereck.
Tim
Thanks
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