Contact   Imprint   Advertising   Guidelines

Measuring surf wave size

Forum for kitesurfers
User avatar
dazza5172
Very Frequent Poster
Posts: 944
Joined: Mon Jul 26, 2004 5:23 am
Local Beach: Middleton, Port Willunga, Mid Coast
Favorite Beaches: Middleton, U-Turns
Style: Wave
Gear: North Rebels, North Rocket Fish, North Freestyle Fish
Brand Affiliation: None
Location: Australia
Has thanked: 0
Been thanked: 1 time

Measuring surf wave size

Postby dazza5172 » Tue Sep 11, 2007 11:21 am

Just interested in how you guys measure surf size.

In South Oz we measure by the pre ground swell rise when you first spot it coming in deeper water, the lump as it touches the ground and starts to reveal itself increases the size but is not part of the sizing. Not the ground swell itself or the full wave size

Some internationals I met called it by the breaking wave height in 'overhead' 'double overhead' etc.

Or do some measure in ft on wave breaking height.

Although we are metric surfers here still go by feet, but I have heard some use metres.

anyhow a 4 ft wave is usually breaking overhead once lifting and breaking, is that so in your backyard??

so these wave would be 4-5ft, yes? Although I would say the top one is itching to have a size call of solid 5 or nearly 6ft.

and to add a + or - we would day solid 4ft for the second wave, bearing in mind that it is only just really walling up and upon breaking is a larger face too.

Daz
Attachments
DSCF5125.JPG
DSCF5125.JPG (123.82 KiB) Viewed 841 times
DSCF5126.JPG
DSCF5126.JPG (99.77 KiB) Viewed 845 times

User avatar
liv2surf
Very Frequent Poster
Posts: 682
Joined: Tue Sep 09, 2003 3:50 pm
Local Beach: Waddell Creek, Scott Creek, Miramar-Half Moon Bay, Coyote Point, Pillar Point Harbor-HMB
Style: waves & foil
Gear: Cabrinha Drifters 7, 9, 11. Firewire Dominator surfboard (quad), no straps. SS SpacePickle adapted to foil (LF Foilfish foil), two foot hooks, front and back.
Brand Affiliation: None
Location: Central Coast, CA
Has thanked: 0
Been thanked: 0
Contact:

Postby liv2surf » Tue Sep 11, 2007 3:10 pm

California system measures height of the face of the breaking wave either in feet or more casually in terms of shoulder, head, OH, head and a half and 2xOH to 5xOH etc. This system makes sense because it is relevant to the surfer surfing the wave and it is easy to estimate looking at the surfer on the wave (if there is a surfer on the wave). California surfers also talk about the "back height" separately.

Hawaiian system measures the back height of the breaking wave. you have to be sitting out the back and it is a bit irrelevant and macho (as it minimizes the size compared with the California system).

... and now we learn the southern Oz system measures the deep ocean bump height which at least makes some sense since that is what the buoys are reporting.

User avatar
North_Wind
Frequent Poster
Posts: 468
Joined: Wed Nov 08, 2006 9:18 am
Local Beach: Rhosneigr
Big Bay, Cape Town
Style: cruising and jumping
Gear: Duotone
Brand Affiliation: None
Location: London, UK
Has thanked: 0
Been thanked: 5 times
Contact:

Postby North_Wind » Tue Sep 11, 2007 6:47 pm

Snap. The exact same topic came up on http://www.kiteboarder.co.uk just yesterday. See link below. It includes an extract to a useful guide on (of all places) the BBC website. Well done Beeb.

http://www.kiteboarder.co.uk/kitesurfin ... hp?t=20463

North Wind

Darktanyan
Frequent Poster
Posts: 210
Joined: Wed Jun 22, 2005 7:02 pm
Brand Affiliation: None
Location: norcal
Has thanked: 0
Been thanked: 0

Postby Darktanyan » Wed Sep 12, 2007 1:04 am

Those are four foot waves. Three foot waves are barely rideable, except on a longboard.

User avatar
dazza5172
Very Frequent Poster
Posts: 944
Joined: Mon Jul 26, 2004 5:23 am
Local Beach: Middleton, Port Willunga, Mid Coast
Favorite Beaches: Middleton, U-Turns
Style: Wave
Gear: North Rebels, North Rocket Fish, North Freestyle Fish
Brand Affiliation: None
Location: Australia
Has thanked: 0
Been thanked: 1 time

Postby dazza5172 » Wed Sep 12, 2007 4:44 am

North_Wind wrote:Snap. The exact same topic came up on http://www.kiteboarder.co.uk just yesterday. See link below. It includes an extract to a useful guide on (of all places) the BBC website. Well done Beeb.

http://www.kiteboarder.co.uk/kitesurfin ... hp?t=20463

North Wind
Perfect, the second link shows what I was thinking, we would have probably considered the 4-5 example only just 4-5ft and I would still call the first wave on my photos 5-6 ft as it is very much a larger wave as it starts to break is quite high.

Interesting about the Hawaii wave size call, did not know that

Daz


Return to “Kitesurfing”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Bing [Bot], Brent NKB, Da Yoda, Google [Bot], Greenturtle, jhonson, rw30, Sander O, SENDIT!, tilmann, y2kBug and 611 guests