Sucessful removal of misplaced stick-on pad/strap

[liv2surf]

I was able to remove a Surftech pad/strap which I initially placed too far back towards tail of my quad or thruster board (6'0") resulting in uncomfortably wide stance width and stiff turning.

1st picture shows pad too far back

2nd picture shows tools used to remove pad. Note: I heated the paint scraper with the heat gun and then found that the 'solvent' injected under pad with syringe was very effective. Sand under pad actually seemed to facilitate removal. Scraped remaining glue/tape residue off with a single edged razor blade in a scraper device.

3rd picture shows tail waxed with landmark labels. When I was happy with foot position while riding, I could easily look down to see where foot was relative to landmarks. Also, notice smudges at "A".

4th picture shows new forward position where I believe the pad/strap needs to go. Position seems right from my test. Any comments on location relative to Quad fin cluster. Any thoughts regarding how sweet spot position would change when I set up board as thruster (I did not test that) ?

I am thinking about using the new pad/strap from NSI with more possible adjustments. I will use a thick adhesive (caulk) compound in a tube to re-attach pad/strap in new location.

[Dwight]

Weatherstrip adhesive from an auto parts store is the best way to reapply. Available in black or yellow. I use black.

[liv2surf]

Weatherstrip adhesive from an auto parts store is the best way to reapply. Available in black or yellow. I use black.

I suppose weatherstip adhesive comes in a tube ?

[Dwight]

yes, a tube

[OzBungy]

I have successfully removed deck grip with just a hair dryer. Heat the glue at the edge, peel back a little, heat some more, peel some more. It came off clean with no residue.

It was only on for a few days so maybe the glue had not bonded as well as your pads..

[mariner]

Any comments on location relative to Quad fin cluster. Any thoughts regarding how sweet spot position would change when I set up board as thruster (I did not test that) ?

...fun taking those things (or any glued pads) off, eh???

...after setting a lot of boards up, & getting comments like, "I'd ride it strapless first, so you know where to stand"... which may not be applicable, once you decide to ride strapped anyway.... so, let me try to offer this up:

1)thrusters seem to like a little bit further back - maybe due to their inherent skatey, almost twin-like feel under turn pressure....
2)quads have sooo much more drive out of a powered turn... it may be better a little further forward, or at least they tolerate more forward (& possibly a greater spread stance)...
HOWEVER - since "spread" seems to have a lot to do to determine surf style:
3) once straps are used, if one didn't know anything about their personal surfstyle - put the front strap directly over the wide point of the board (usually the geometric center) - measure your average spread to position back foot - keeping in mind that centering it over the front fin's center of effort (about the forward 1/3 of the fin) is a great starting point...
4) quads require the back strap somewhere behind the F.fins c.o.e., but not much... say about centerline or between the front & rear fins

I don't ride surf directionals or twintips exclusively, but switch back & forth when I get to ride what I like, whenever I can....
MY stat's
5'8" M10 surftech @ 14" spread
5'11" Stretch F4 @ 15 1/2" spread
130 JL tt @ 13 1/2" spread
132 JL tt @ 14" spread

5) larger type people need larger spread, smaller, etc....

Directionals in general require a larger spread than tt's, but since [in kiting] the board length range is not excessive - it can be close & successful individually - BUT! consider the old windsurf (slalom to course) boards (muuuuch longer) that had multiple sets of straps to position in different conditions... uuuhhhh...

point: if the board (surfstyle) is too long you can't stand in the optimum position [with straps that is] without possibly exceeding your stance spread.... & likewise, a great board may not be strappable if you're not willing to compromise your positioning (primarily, which I don't recommend) & stance width (secondarily, which I would consider first, if that makes sense)...

where you stand is probably gonna be more important than stance spread, 'cause the board's performance is dependent on that, so you may have to adapt a different stance width...

next chapter we'll discuss asymmetrical positioning of straps for.....

ha... good luck! live to ride....

[Lmrutledge]

I have used fishing line around 12-14 pd. test. Get the middle of the line you use, about 24 inches long, under one corner of the pad. Bring it towards you in a sawing motion side to side with a little pressure towards you. Seems to make pad removal very easy.

Hope this helps.

LMR

[Darktanyan]

What is a good way to remove the adhesive/glue from the board after removing the pad?

I prefer not to use a razor blade.

[ian c]

that is one annoying thing about strapped surfboards. You want your feet further forward for cruising and further back for wave riding. You also want to move your feet back and forth to speed up and slow down your wave ride, and to change the radius you can turn on the wave (ie foot right at the back above fins for very sharp turns)

deck pads are so much better than wax for kitesurfing - wax wears out so quick kitesurfing, I always have to keep a block in my boardies.

[liv2surf]

I bought a can of DAP Weldwood THE ORIGINAL Contact Cement and applied with a small disposable foam brush. Coated both surfaces (after removing wax carefully). The pads have remain perfectly affixed for over a year now in the ocean.