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qbanboy14
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Postby qbanboy14 » Fri Apr 21, 2017 3:04 pm
http://imgur.com/a/kapmA
Board Experts, please help
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jeromeL
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Postby jeromeL » Fri Apr 21, 2017 3:29 pm
doesn't look like it reached core/wood?
shave off what sticks out with razor blade
You can add some super glue or epoxy for added protection.
If it reached wood, then make sure it's really dry and use epoxy that dry slowly to give it time to reach in.
Though, I have board that look worse and didn't bother fixing them.
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direnc
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Postby direnc » Fri Apr 21, 2017 3:41 pm
Here's what I'd do:
1. Clean it thoroughly
2. Mask the top layer with some masking tape to keep it clean
3. Apply epoxy to the delaminated area. Make sure it seeps all the way into the opening. Use a toothpick if you have to.
4. Clamp the area between two pieces of wood.
5. Wait a day, unclamp, and sand the edge smooth.
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dylan*
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Postby dylan* » Sat Apr 22, 2017 2:16 pm
I have a board that looks like this, I haven't touched it for almost 5 years and it still hasn't gotten any worse. I think it got that way just from dropping it on the tail while leaning it against the wall or something
i've fixed another board just with UV surfboard epoxy. cut the loose bit off with a knife and cover the seam in the epoxy, leave it in the sun for 5 minutes and it will never peel again
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Daversj
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Postby Daversj » Sun Apr 23, 2017 3:30 pm
I have used West System G Flex epoxy for this with good results. It is better than most expoxies in that it bonds well with plastics and dissimilar materials and isnt brittle. Just make sure surface is clean. Use blue mask tape on areas you dont want glue. I use spring pinch clamps with thin wood for clamping. Cure time with this epoxy is longer than most. Leave it in sun or warm area. Let it cure for a few days before use.
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sarc
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Postby sarc » Sun Apr 23, 2017 3:33 pm
Do a search on this forum, a few months ago there were posts from someone with much worse peeling who was able to fix it very well
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Matteo V
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Postby Matteo V » Wed Apr 26, 2017 3:56 pm
G-Flex will work on even wet substrates. It is made to cure underwater. The right way is to dry out the board first, but it is a TT, so who cares.
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Bille
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Postby Bille » Wed Apr 26, 2017 4:14 pm
Daversj wrote: ↑Sun Apr 23, 2017 3:30 pm
I have used
West System G Flex epoxy for this with good results. It is better than most expoxies in that it bonds well with plastics and dissimilar materials and isnt brittle.
...
YEP -- Good stuff ; i built my last fake-leg , using that flexible epoxy !!
Bille
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FredBGG
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Postby FredBGG » Wed Apr 26, 2017 11:30 pm
Use west marine penetrating epoxy. It is designed to penetrate cracks or water damages wood/core materials.
It will do a much better job at getting deep into the delamination even where visible separation can't be seen.
Much better than other thicker epoxies.
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TheJoe
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Postby TheJoe » Thu Apr 27, 2017 12:18 am
Trim it with a razor blade but leave a bevel so it does not catch and start peeling more. The only thing that is peeling is the grind base and they are next to impossible to epoxy back down. Your glass is not delaminating so just shave and forget about it. My old Ronix Von Vidal has the hole nose shaved board was notorious for peeling back.
Again no need to epoxy as it is not needed here.
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