Yep Brummels are hard to get accurate, but not impossible. You need to rely on pen marks on the line.OzBungy wrote: ↑Mon Apr 30, 2018 7:58 amI am wondering why we're talking about Brummel splices at all. They sound cool because they are self locking. The big problem is that they're very difficult to get accurate lengths. All the splice parts use up a couple of centimeters of line and you end up with a short line. Once you have done the splice you're stuck with it
Plain splices are easy to adjust when not stitched, you can adjust a brummel put it's difficult. Tension is very important when doing stuff with line lengths, super important for flying lines cause they are so long. I use a pulley to balance them.OzBungy wrote: ↑Mon Apr 30, 2018 7:58 amA simple bury splice is much easier to do and extremely easy to adjust the length. You just put it next to it's partner line and slide the splice up and down until it's accurate. Don't forget to apply the same tension on the lines when measuring. Tension makes a huge difference in line length.
Important to remove shrink from lines before adjusting them. Usually that alone will correct them.OzBungy wrote: ↑Mon Apr 30, 2018 7:58 amLength of flying lines is not so critical because you can adjust them with the pigtails. It's still a pain to do that. Length of bridle lines is super critical (especially in foil kites). It's far better to use a method where you can proof and adjust the length before completing the splice.
Pins are best for being super accurate, but pen marks are good, I would still use some pen marks as backup on things like flying lines.
Try some other line, Jerry Browns stuff is very easy, the weave opens very big. I use picture frame wire which is steel, just use a thinner wire if you need. Some line is really not spliceable though.
Yep twists are bad.
our tests are certainly different. make sure you do comparison tests too for slower taper vs unravel.
I realize you are not going to change your mind. You've been doing it this way for 10 years. Just keep it in mind the next time you do testing. Make sure you test a plain rope (no splice), figure 8 knot, unweave the rope and blunt end, and then compare them. I have also read a lot of literature and it doesn't all agree.
With exception of the figure 8 knot (which is obvious) I have tested everything else. What you are saying is that almost everyone is riding lines at the moment which are only at 50% breaking strength, as no manufacturer does a super clean taper and most don't bother tapering at all. I have yet to see one paper on how not having taper reduced the strength by that much.edt wrote: ↑Mon Apr 30, 2018 1:48 pmI realize you are not going to change your mind. You've been doing it this way for 10 years. Just keep it in mind the next time you do testing. Make sure you test a plain rope (no splice), figure 8 knot, unweave the rope and blunt end, and then compare them. I have also read a lot of literature and it doesn't all agree.
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