ronnie wrote: ↑
Tue May 01, 2018 10:50 am
This is the video I worked from. I found it almost impossible to get the doubled, tapered line and doubled guitar string back through the line. I then got a thin knitting needle that was the maximum diameter that would go up the centre of the line, and loaded the line onto it, then removed it before passing the guitarline through and pulling the line end back through.
It should just take practice to be able to pull the splice through. I have never not been able to pull the line through with a splicing tool or guitar string. The worst has been not being able to get the tool or wire into the line in the first place because the line is too thin (the wire passes all the way through and doesn't go down the middle), or on thick lines where the centre core has bound up and there's no tunnel to push through.
The splice in that video is a bit of a worry. It's sort of a half brummel. It's actually quite easy to pull apart if you grab the line and the loop in the right place. I admit that it is unlikely to happen without help, but it could. A true brummel is almost impossible to get apart again once it's finished. (In fact, I just spliced a line with both kinds of brummel ends. The half brummel was easy to pull apart. The MacDonald Brummel took some serious "reverse engineering" to get apart.)
I think it ultimately comes down to embracing the act of splicing, and specifically committing to a simple straight splice with nice long, sewn, tapered bury. It's strong. It's accurate. It's easy to do. It's the way any professionally done splice will be done (in thin lines). It's also the only one you can do in place if you're repairing a foil kite bridle or brake line.
PS. As I mentioned above, apart from a lot of years of doing splices and sewing bridle lines and stuff, I have been sitting here and trying all these splices out. Bog standard brummel is easiest if you don't want to sew, and has no twists to worry about. Straight eye splice best of all but you have to sew them.