Matteo V wrote: ↑Sun May 13, 2018 9:54 pm…But for cost and low stretch performance, I go with the Jerry Brown hollow braid spectra. This stuff splices great and has decent wear characteristics, though it is not "waxy" and somewhat a looser/flatter braid. But is no where as loose as some of the junk lines previously mentioned. I use 800lb for my fronts, and any other junk line (stock on any bar I get) for the rears…
Thanks for the link. I remember reading that article before.
I am choking to death just reading this statement!Matteo V wrote: ↑Sun May 13, 2018 9:54 pmNaish and Ozone have always had great low stretch lines with a tight braid and are very resistant to wear.
North and Best lines (at least 2010-2014) were junk lines that pretty much immediatley showed wear even if you were not using them in a highly abrasive environment.
A tight braid with a waxy feel seems to be best.
But for cost and low stretch performance, I go with the Jerry Brown hollow braid spectra. This stuff splices great and has decent wear characteristics, though it is not "waxy" and somewhat a looser/flatter braid. But is no where as loose as some of the junk lines previously mentioned. I use 800lb for my fronts, and any other junk line (stock on any bar I get) for the rears. I also have some Marlow tight braided spectra kite line that I believe is 350kg, but still nice and thin for back lines. Here is a link for BHP tackle where you can get a really low price on the right sized spool (300yds is plenty for maintaining a few bars).
Stretching and splicing is 50% of the issue with kite lines. You need to take your time stretching and stretch to within about 80% of the breaking strength. Then you need to take more time and let the lines relax. For fronts, let them relax for 15-20 minutes before making the final splices. Rears are better left for longer, but can be done in a pinch after a second handling and a 20 minute wait. - Again THIS WILL MAKE OR BREAK YOUR LINESET PROJECT! There is more to it than I am laying out, but I am not going to write a guide for you right now. And just for clarity, you need some mechanical advantage to properly stretch you lines. But be careful as the stored energy release of a snapped line can hurt you pretty bad.
Q-Power line is great, except for the terminations. If you knot, you must make a perfectly neat "figure 8" knot or you will easily break at that knot. If you machine sew sleeved loops, make sure you wet the line and the thread before sewing. Then go slow with the machine. If you don't follow that advice, you will cut individual strands in the Q-Power line and severely weaken the splice. Honestly, I abandoned my Q-Power line sets after a few breaks at the sewn sleeves, and then later at a less than perfect figure 8 knot.
Q-power line has not changed and all the issues with it still exist and will always exist. It can't be spliced as it is not a braid. So knots or sewn loops become it's "Achilles heel".MutantWizard wrote: ↑Sun May 13, 2018 7:36 pmA while back heard some good comments but also some bad comments about Q-PowerLine Pro lines but that might be outdated by now. I would appreciate any experience or advice members here have with these or a recommendation of any other lines you think would qualify according to my criteria.Thanks!
Read more slowly and your should be ok.
What do you mean - did one front line go out of tune? Or does it appear that the fronts stretched (actually the rears shrinking)? And 500kg sounds like overkill as I get by with 363kg home made Jerry Brown hollow braid fishing line and it is enough of an improvement over stock 300kg lines that I do not think I need to get any bigger at 225lb body weight plus gear. That said, my line set construction methods are heavily focused on stretching at high loads for a long period (relatively) time compared to most other home builders of line sets. Though, I do believe my stretching is more rigorous than most manufactures.
This is immensely important as most kiters kite somewhere with actual beach. I am in the dead center of the US and still have to contend with beautiful (but abrasive) white sand beaches here. Not to minimize your claim on new North lines, but if North is using the same loose/fuzzy line even at a higher strength, it is not good for the abrasive environments most of us lay out kite lines in.
What did the lines wear from if your lines are not in contact with sand? Did the lines just wear from looping where they cross? Why wax to prevent abrasive infiltration if you do not kite where abrasives are a problem? Is it for wear when crossed while looping???dracop wrote: ↑Fri May 18, 2018 10:19 pm........Liros DC-701 and DC-401 are the magic bomb imo. They do need to be waxed every six months though or abrasion will get to them (six mo of near daily usage). My North lines didnt start to wear/get abrasion until 12mo (better aftermarket processing treatment than applying cheap candle wax from walmart). Its 2018, if a manufacturer is still using line with SK-75 fiber technology, dump that crap - SK99 is WAAAAYYYY better than SK-75 for our sport.
I really like the treatment on Q Power in terms of abrasion, just wish they would update with newer fiber core technology to have better strength. If you have a low power application (eg, Foiling), stick with Q Power. For anything requiring lots of breaking strength/stretching resistance, go with Liros is my advice.
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