I like the idea of minimal line wear. Your setup looks great. Do you have a source for a shackle that fits the 3D printed wheels from Shapeways? Thanks.
Use 6mm stainless steel 'D' shackles which normally have a 6mm bolt.
I use these below (break load ~1500kg) because the bolt (6mm diameter) has a recessed slot so can't catch on anything and there's always a screwdriver around:
Plenty of other suppliers, they are a standard marine product.
nb:-
- If the pin is not totally removable (captive pin) then there must enough space to fit the wheel.
- Sometimes the jaws need to be widened by 2-3mm to fit the wheel. Screw the bolt in from the top (thread at the bottom) and use a drop of blue loctite on the thread to prevent movement. The bolt should be tightened up hard against the sides of the wheel then backed off a quarter or third of a turn to enable the wheel to turn freely. The point of doing this is provide the narrowest possible gap for sand to get in, but if it does get in it gets ground by the wheel and stainless shackle sides and bolt.
- Every session, before going out ensure the wheel turns freely by hand. Water is a lubricant.
Last edited by iriejohn on Thu Oct 31, 2019 6:02 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Ah, what the too short rope loop was designed for!
stealth bar small loop.JPG
Didn't realize how the short loop feature could work this way either until recently. It's surprising Mystic didn't highlight this, it's a very clever and functional option.
The North bar looks great, especially like the quick-change chicken loops and the tunnel in the PU tubing.
These users thanked the author jmach for the post:
If you are going to use a D shackle and wheel with 4 or 5mm hollow braided dyneema you may find that the runner line will occasionally jump off the wheel and jam between the side of the wheel and shackle if the gap between them is too big. This was the case for me with my roller hook which has a similar wheel set up to irejohn's D shackle.
There are 2 cures; apply tape to the D shackle just above the wheel, or perhaps better still, insert a suitable core into the runner, I used 3mm yellow dyneema to make it easier to see wear.
Imho the runner operation feels better if it has a bit of slack and this will also lessen the load on the line, irejohn's set up in the drop box looks about right to me.
I had a little D-shackle like that in my harness connection. And a few weeks ago it suddenly released while riding along. Only one side of the shackle was bent so I assume it just screwed itself out without me noticing over time.
Would recommend either checking that it is tight often, applying locktite or preventing the pin from unscrewing with safety wire or other technique. Just something to look out for.
If you are going to use a D shackle and wheel with 4 or 5mm hollow braided dyneema you may find that the runner line will occasionally jump off the wheel and jam between the side of the wheel and shackle if the gap between them is too big. This was the case for me with my roller hook which has a similar wheel set up to irejohn's D shackle.
There are 2 cures; apply tape to the D shackle just above the wheel, or perhaps better still, insert a suitable core into the runner, I used 3mm yellow dyneema to make it easier to see wear.
Imho the runner operation feels better if it has a bit of slack and this will also lessen the load on the line, irejohn's set up in the drop box looks about right to me.
The clearance between the side of the 6mm D shackle I use and the side of the wheel is less than 1mm, a 5mm rope simply can not jam in this space. Unless it is badly worn, of course, in which case it should have already been replaced.
I had a little D-shackle like that in my harness connection. And a few weeks ago it suddenly released while riding along. Only one side of the shackle was bent so I assume it just screwed itself out without me noticing over time.
Would recommend either checking that it is tight often, applying locktite or preventing the pin from unscrewing with safety wire or other technique. Just something to look out for.
That's what I said in my post.
Last edited by iriejohn on Thu Oct 31, 2019 10:46 pm, edited 3 times in total.
Good point prfctChaos. I thoroughly clean/degrease and epoxy all the threaded parts of this system. Even with blue loctite the port attachment shackle pin kept loosening. I still feel the need to inspect all the threaded parts before use.
If I was making up my own D shackle I would peen over the end of the pin if there was sufficient thread protrusion.
Irjohn glad to hear you did not have the problem I had with OEM gear. The dyneema as supplied could pull down to a wide flat band that was pretty thin. Otherwise solid kit. Eyeballing the clearance with pulley wheel pulled to one side 2-3mm, and the soft weeve dyneema managed to get in there, Murphy's Law perhaps.
Last edited by Herman on Thu Oct 31, 2019 11:40 pm, edited 3 times in total.
Good point prfctChaos. I thoroughly clean/degrease and epoxy all the threaded parts of this system. Even with blue loctite the port attachment shackle pin kept loosening. I still feel the need to inspect all the threaded parts before use.
If I was making up my own D shackle I would peen over the end off the pin if there was sufficient thread protrusion.
Irjohn glad to hear you did not have the problem I had with OEM gear. The dyneema as supplied could pull down to a flat band that was pretty thin. Otherwise solid kit.
Irejohn
I appreciate that, I was just talking generally for anybody who is interested. I certainly don't think you need my advice, it is obvious that you are well sorted!
After two sessions on the Spectra Gray I can say that there is noticeably less friction on the black slider ring vs the stock Dyneema. The Spectra does stretch out more than the Dyneema. Assuming equal or better wear, I prefer the Spectra.