...that flatwater in front of a wave...that is not the wave.Lip: The lip is the top edge of the wave before it breaks.
Shoulder: Is the part that is further away from the breaking part, usually not so steep.
Face / Wall: The steep part of the wave out in front of where you surf.
Tube / Barrel: Is the part that is hollow that surfers aim for to get a tube ride or barrel ride.
Pocket / Curl: The part that is just before the wave breaks, it is where we get power to continue riding the wave.
Whitewater: Is the white foam of the wave after it has broken.
longwhitecloud wrote: ↑Thu Oct 24, 2019 3:24 pmThis kook did both. Unfortunately I don't have a personal pro photographer, I was just stoked that someone bothered to snap a few pics without my knowledge and give them to me. Hacking waves is my speciality, maybe not when 10ft plus (triple overhead+ sets) and barrelling at super high speed though...i pick my battles - if you tried a top turn in this section it is likely you would end up becoming part of the reef after free falling almost 20 ft into 5ft deep water with 10 000 tonnes of water slamming on top of you. One dude nearly drowned. It was a session of a lifetime.
Smaller day surfing in same spot:
Screen Shot 2019-10-24 at 2.22.11 pm.jpg
Screen Shot 2019-10-24 at 11.40.47 pm.jpg
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