For what it’s worth, my addiction has changed. The stoke is still there, I still want to get in the wind and water whenever it’s possible. But it has changed from full on adrenaline crank to more of the ‘fit into the flow, zen’ thing. Where everything gets quiet and smooth and clean and the conditions dictate the ride instead of only trying to push my limits.
On the crazy big days I still do the adrenaline thing because you have to just to survive but the other, more common days where it just gets joyous to be out it’s due to finding the flow.
Sort of gone from full ego at what I can do to way less ego to see how I might fit in and become part of something bigger, more like meditation I guess.
But still can’t wait to get out and feel it. And I have no idea if it’s made me a better person