Thanks for the reply!
Sounds all good, I also replaced my upper front lines and backlines on my Clickbar the moment I bought it. Just don't understand what you are doing with the 86cm line, I guess you run it through the tubing but then what connectit to the lower front line or something? Or is the whole trick that 'normally' the red line is longer (this 86 cm) and you connect one of the equal lenght front lines to the 86cm line (which you can replace when necessary). Will the double splicing go through the tube? Thanks for this hack!Foil wrote: ↑Tue Aug 18, 2020 8:20 amits an easy conversion to get this feature, and it brings with it great advantages for future line maintenance,
and its way cheaper and easier, and you end up with better lines, Sk99, much less bulk on the bar, less wind drag due to much thinner lines, same strength lines but with longer life, smoother, more slippy and less likely to tangle as you run them out, no fraying around the ends of the line attachment points (where the common breaks happen)all this at half the price?? yes!!
basically you need to buy a full set of standard Ozone lines, choose the length you want, I go for the 23mtr, £125 gmb without discount for the set,
all lines are equal, the flag out line with red trace has the same red bar stop ball in the same place as the click bar, good stuff!
line ends are spot on for a quick swap over, no work to do on the 4 ozone lines.
"ALL" you have to do is make your own (or buy from a custom shop) a length of SK99 500kg line exactly 86cm long, and if you are splicing some spare SK99 lines to make up spares of this sacrificial line with a 15cm bury then remember to add in 20mm at each splice point for the lost length due to the splice bury,
There is good reason to buy the ozone lines in the maximum length available, if your good at splicing, as you can cut them down and use the extra line cuts for the sacrificial lines.
one great by product is you can make or buy many of these 500kg SK99 lengths and use them to renew the line area that gets worn where the lines cross when bar spinning/and kite looping.I am making plenty of these ready for my 6 month beach holiday.
if you decide to do the conversion then be aware of two points.
if you have to use a high Y split (most kites will fly great on no Y split above the depower, try it as some fly better) but if you do need a split point then just use a short length of electrical shrink wrap, 1.5mm internal diameter, use the click bar plastic green feed line to pull the main line through this heat shrink tube, it should be a snug fit, but once in place you can slide it to any chosen place along the line, just mark the point of choice with a black marker, then clamp on top of the sleeve the normal line splitter gismo, fully adjustable trick mod, but don't use heat to shrink the sleeve, you may damage the line, and its not required either if you use the right diameter heat shrink sleeve.
the top end of the black plastic power tube line has a small internal moulding lip hidden just inside the tapered top hole where the safety line runs through, this lip MUST be removed, ideally with a micro rat tail file, work the file in with gusto, and then wrap a bit of 800 grit paper around the file end to gloss off the inner hole surface, and then test the free running of the line through the tube, your new line joint must be pulled good and tight before hand, I use an anchor point to exert a hard constant pull and wet the joint in the line to get it thin and smooth, even working it a little with my teeth to get it to settle down nice and smooth with minimal bump in the line, this attention to detail around this joint point is critical, sloppy splicing or slap dash attention to detail is a sure way to get a big bump in the line join, and this will not work safely, so check and get it right before use on the water,
not a modification to try if your rubbish at splicing or not understanding exactly what I am trying to explain.
but get it right and you have the best click bar system ever made, with the best lines, and cheap to maintain!
Sounds all good, I also replaced my upper front lines and backlines on my Clickbar the moment I bought it. Just don't understand what you are doing with the 86cm line, I guess you run it through the tubing but then what connectit to the lower front line or something? Or is the whole trick that 'normally' the red line is longer (this 86 cm) and you connect one of the equal lenght front lines to the 86cm line (which you can replace when necessary). Will the double splicing go through the tube? Thanks for this hack!
the big most noticeable difference is the reduction in bulk of thick hairy line on your click bar over stretching your restraining bungie's,
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