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Clickbar red safety line end cap removal

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Kitemenn
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Re: Clickbar red safety line end cap removal

Postby Kitemenn » Wed Aug 19, 2020 8:27 am

Whaha yes I upgraded to 500KG lines both front and back and still less bulky then the Duotone ones

Foil
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Re: Clickbar red safety line end cap removal

Postby Foil » Wed Aug 19, 2020 10:13 am

23mtr ozone sk99 lines on my click bar 500kg fronts and 300kg rears
Also showing the areas of interest when considering the mod/hack
This set up was done earlier this year and used exclusively nearly every day for the last 2 months,
the area where the original red safety line often shows considerable wear sits inside the lower section below the PU power line tube, the replacement grey/black SK99 sacrificial line seen below has had lots of heavy boosting use, but is only showing very slight wear,
the brake line/strap mod you can see is the ozone standard 50cm foil kite bar brake strap with good old North click bar line ball stops added to the leader lines to hold its position, these cheap items are available from shops with North click bar spares, they fit perfectly snug over the plastic line covers and the internal grub screw holds it firmly.
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Last edited by Foil on Wed Aug 19, 2020 3:05 pm, edited 2 times in total.
These users thanked the author Foil for the post (total 3):
Leon van Bergen (Wed Aug 19, 2020 11:24 am) • zlatko23 (Wed Aug 19, 2020 11:31 am) • Kitemenn (Wed Aug 19, 2020 1:34 pm)
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Kitemenn
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Re: Clickbar red safety line end cap removal

Postby Kitemenn » Wed Aug 19, 2020 1:33 pm

Wooow that is detailed! Thanks so much! Like your whole set up...genious! Two questions:
- What is that plastic sleeve over your lines and is it to protect for extra wear? Is it just simple shrink sleeve?
- What is that line above your floaters for? what use does it have?

Foil
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Posts: 1218
Joined: Mon Oct 23, 2017 7:44 pm
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Local Beach: NewBrighton beach-Derby pool end,Wallasey, near Liverpool for 6 months in summer
Flag beach on fuerteventura for 6 months in winter.
Favorite Beaches: Flag beach fuerteventura, off season/6months
Home - NewBrighton,Rhosneigr, Ainsdale, Fleetwood, Newbrough
Style: improving foiler.
Gear: Groove Skate 120,carbon 2020 edition
101cm + 82cm Moses Carbon masts
Moses- 633/483 on a 701 fuse
Moses- 720 balz pro/425 on longer 739 fuse
Ozone Hyperlink V1 ultra light 5mtr
Ozone V2 Hyperlink 7mtr + 9mtr
Ozone Chrono V3 UL foil kite 11mtr
Ozone compact V4 bars,click in,23 mtr lines
duotone click bar 2020
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Re: Clickbar red safety line end cap removal

Postby Foil » Wed Aug 19, 2020 2:50 pm

Kitemenn wrote:
Wed Aug 19, 2020 1:33 pm
Wooow that is detailed! Thanks so much! Like your whole set up...genious! Two questions:
- What is that plastic sleeve over your lines and is it to protect for extra wear? Is it just simple shrink sleeve?
- What is that line above your floaters for? what use does it have?
The thin plastic sleeve is transparent heat shrink, snug fit of 1.5mm, used that to be sure if sand was getting in I could see it, more an experiment to see if it is worth bothering with, when I change the line I will cut off the heat shrink to inspect the line and compare the line without it for signs of wear.
the black brake strap you see is for super quick reverse launching my foil kites, most foil kite users have them fitted to help with this relaunch method that is very often needed when a foil kite hits the water

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iriejohn
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Re: Clickbar red safety line end cap removal

Postby iriejohn » Wed Aug 19, 2020 3:07 pm

Instead of all the below stuff, how about simply using an Ozone V4 Water bar which has SK99 lines and a nice generic Clamcleat assembly?

Image
Foil wrote:
Mon Aug 17, 2020 8:42 pm
done this a lot,
and by the way your red line is worn just at the place I have seen two snap, as you know this line is fully loaded, and all click bars i have taken to bits have this hidden wear waiting to bite back if it's not seen to, I now use a sacrificial section of line running up through from the bottom end and out the top of the depower pu tube, and done away with the the red line completely.
Anyways,
To remove the little black plastic cup covering,
just soak the bottom section in hot water, get a small thin screwdriver with a straight edge ready in your hand,
after the plastic cup end has been warmed up in the hot water quickly lift out and turn upside down to see the little stainless ring wedged tight inside and stick the screwdriver end into the ring and pry it clear of the plastic cup end,
as soon as its a bit clear of the cup push the screwdriver through the ring and grasp the screwdriver so its clamped tight in your fist then grip the plastic cup with your other fingers and slide the cup up the line away from the ring which holds the red safety line,
slide it up a good few inches giving you room to push the wet soft red line back through the middle bar of the little metal ring,
loop the end back over the ring and slide the ring off the line, then you can slide off the plastic cup section, then finally the larger second safety leash ring, noting which way round it fits,
many get this wrong and fit it back upside down which jams up the free rotation of the untwisting feature, noT good at all.

Refitting the little plastic end is easy if it's not too damaged, and yours looks just fine,
you will need to again wet out the line and use a very thin feeder line, or the supplied green one that comes with the click bar, but be warned this green thin plastic line puller can break very easily, so I use an old thin section of steering line for the job, you can of course just cut off the thin plastic sleeve joined to the end cup and you are left with just the cup, which works just as well without the thin tube, and is now supplied like that as a spare part anyways, so all good.

as for the tiny red stopper ball it just pulls off the line, dam tight fit! but again wet the line and find a small socket to slide over the top of the line and then bash it off with good force from the top down to the bottom, once off the hidden line joint hidden by the ball it will slide easily off the line, I use ozone SK99 lines to replace the click bar lines, and they come with exactly the same ball fixed in just the right place, easy!
Foil wrote:
Tue Aug 18, 2020 8:20 am
its an easy conversion to get this feature, and it brings with it great advantages for future line maintenance,
and its way cheaper and easier, and you end up with better lines, Sk99, much less bulk on the bar, less wind drag due to much thinner lines, same strength lines but with longer life, smoother, more slippy and less likely to tangle as you run them out, no fraying around the ends of the line attachment points (where the common breaks happen)all this at half the price?? yes!!
basically you need to buy a full set of standard Ozone lines, choose the length you want, I go for the 23mtr, £125 gmb without discount for the set,
all lines are equal, the flag out line with red trace has the same red bar stop ball in the same place as the click bar, good stuff!
line ends are spot on for a quick swap over, no work to do on the 4 ozone lines.
"ALL" you have to do is make your own (or buy from a custom shop) a length of SK99 500kg line exactly 86cm long, and if you are splicing some spare SK99 lines to make up spares of this sacrificial line with a 15cm bury then remember to add in 20mm at each splice point for the lost length due to the splice bury,
There is good reason to buy the ozone lines in the maximum length available, if your good at splicing, as you can cut them down and use the extra line cuts for the sacrificial lines.
one great by product is you can make or buy many of these 500kg SK99 lengths and use them to renew the line area that gets worn where the lines cross when bar spinning/and kite looping.I am making plenty of these ready for my 6 month beach holiday.
please note!
if you decide to do the conversion then be aware of two points.
1
if you have to use a high Y split (most kites will fly great on no Y split above the depower, try it as some fly better) but if you do need a split point then just use a short length of electrical shrink wrap, 1.5mm internal diameter, use the click bar plastic green feed line to pull the main line through this heat shrink tube, it should be a snug fit, but once in place you can slide it to any chosen place along the line, just mark the point of choice with a black marker, then clamp on top of the sleeve the normal line splitter gismo, fully adjustable trick mod, but don't use heat to shrink the sleeve, you may damage the line, and its not required either if you use the right diameter heat shrink sleeve.

2
the top end of the black plastic power tube line has a small internal moulding lip hidden just inside the tapered top hole where the safety line runs through, this lip MUST be removed, ideally with a micro rat tail file, work the file in with gusto, and then wrap a bit of 800 grit paper around the file end to gloss off the inner hole surface, and then test the free running of the line through the tube, your new line joint must be pulled good and tight before hand, I use an anchor point to exert a hard constant pull and wet the joint in the line to get it thin and smooth, even working it a little with my teeth to get it to settle down nice and smooth with minimal bump in the line, this attention to detail around this joint point is critical, sloppy splicing or slap dash attention to detail is a sure way to get a big bump in the line join, and this will not work safely, so check and get it right before use on the water,
not a modification to try if your rubbish at splicing or not understanding exactly what I am trying to explain.
but get it right and you have the best click bar system ever made, with the best lines, and cheap to maintain!
Image
Foil wrote:
Tue Aug 18, 2020 5:39 pm
Kitemenn wrote:
Tue Aug 18, 2020 9:39 am

Sounds all good, I also replaced my upper front lines and backlines on my Clickbar the moment I bought it. Just don't understand what you are doing with the 86cm line, I guess you run it through the tubing but then what connectit to the lower front line or something? Or is the whole trick that 'normally' the red line is longer (this 86 cm) and you connect one of the equal lenght front lines to the 86cm line (which you can replace when necessary). Will the double splicing go through the tube? Thanks for this hack! :thumb:
the double splice joint will slide through as long as you follow point 2 on my last post

point 2
the top end of the black plastic power tube line has a small internal moulding lip hidden just inside the tapered top hole where the safety line runs through, this lip MUST be removed, ideally with a micro rat tail file, work the file in with gusto, and then wrap a bit of 800 grit paper around the file end to gloss off the inner hole surface, and then test the free running of the line through the tube, your new line joint must be pulled good and tight before hand, I use an anchor point to exert a hard constant pull and wet the joint in the line to get it thin and smooth, even working it a little with my teeth to get it to settle down nice and smooth with minimal bump in the line, this attention to detail around this joint point is critical, sloppy splicing or slap dash attention to detail is a sure way to get a big bump in the line join, and this will not work safely, so check and get it right before use on the water,
not a modification to try if your rubbish at splicing or not understanding exactly what I am trying to explain.
but get it right and you have the best click bar system ever made, with the best lines, and cheap to maintain!
Foil wrote:
Wed Aug 19, 2020 10:13 am
23mtr ozone sk99 lines on my click bar 500kg fronts and 300kg rears
Also showing the areas of interest when considering the mod/hack
This set up was done earlier this year and used exclusively nearly every day for the last 2 months, the area where the original red safety line shows considerable wear inside the lower section below the PU power line tube is after lots of heavy boosting use is now only showing very slight wear, the brake line mod you can see is the ozone standard 50cm foil bar brake line with good old North click bar line ball stops added to hold its position, these are available for penny's from shops with North click bar spares, they fit perfectly snug over the plastic line
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Image
Foil wrote:
Wed Aug 19, 2020 2:50 pm
Kitemenn wrote:
Wed Aug 19, 2020 1:33 pm
Wooow that is detailed! Thanks so much! Like your whole set up...genious! Two questions:
- What is that plastic sleeve over your lines and is it to protect for extra wear? Is it just simple shrink sleeve?
- What is that line above your floaters for? what use does it have?
The thin plastic sleeve is transparent heat shrink, snug fit of 1.5mm, used that to be sure if sand was getting in I could see it, more an experiment to see if it is worth bothering with, when I change the line I will cut off the heat shrink to inspect the line and compare the line without it for signs of wear.
the black brake strap you see is for super quick reverse launching my foil kites, most foil kite users have them fitted to help with this relaunch method that is very often needed when a foil kite hits the water

Kitemenn
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Re: Clickbar red safety line end cap removal

Postby Kitemenn » Wed Aug 19, 2020 3:32 pm

iriejohn wrote:
Wed Aug 19, 2020 3:07 pm
Instead of all the below stuff, how about simply using an Ozone V4 Water bar which has SK99 lines and a nice generic Clamcleat assembly?
Haters gonna hate. The Click bar itself is great, only downside are the lines (even in the 2021 model in my view) and the wear on the red front line! Foil just fixed this! I think it's awesome and Duotone should adapt this or Evan from Infexion should take it up in the assortment!

Foil
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Posts: 1218
Joined: Mon Oct 23, 2017 7:44 pm
Kiting since: 2000
Local Beach: NewBrighton beach-Derby pool end,Wallasey, near Liverpool for 6 months in summer
Flag beach on fuerteventura for 6 months in winter.
Favorite Beaches: Flag beach fuerteventura, off season/6months
Home - NewBrighton,Rhosneigr, Ainsdale, Fleetwood, Newbrough
Style: improving foiler.
Gear: Groove Skate 120,carbon 2020 edition
101cm + 82cm Moses Carbon masts
Moses- 633/483 on a 701 fuse
Moses- 720 balz pro/425 on longer 739 fuse
Ozone Hyperlink V1 ultra light 5mtr
Ozone V2 Hyperlink 7mtr + 9mtr
Ozone Chrono V3 UL foil kite 11mtr
Ozone compact V4 bars,click in,23 mtr lines
duotone click bar 2020
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Re: Clickbar red safety line end cap removal

Postby Foil » Wed Aug 19, 2020 3:38 pm

very funny iriejohn :lol:
I do own the V4 Ozone "click in" standard water foil bar with brake strap,
and it has its "faults" for someone like me who multi spins their kite all the time in the waves and during transitions, all this on hydrofoil, even some of my starts are mini kite back loops, and crossed lines are a constant problem and very distracting looking up to check and then slowing down to take one hand off the bar to unspin the lines by hand,or find a excuse to spin the kite back the opposite way, flipping annoying at times, and the bar colours are dark both sides, so the chance of grabbing the wrong side of the bar whilst spinning out 3 or 4 twists is high,
foilers who loop a lot all have this problem, but not for them who have a duotone 2020 click bar, got to love the auto front line untwist feature, never fails, brilliant,
the brightly coloured bright orange left hand side of the bar and floater are unmissable even after a bad crash and under the water, also the lack of a depower pull above the bar is a sure way of avoiding getting the brake strap fouled up around the depower pull which is a pain at times on the ozone bar, it's a nasty experience when it gets caught up.
but all that said the ozone bar is fantastic as a spare bar, just in case, you never know when I might need to use it (never I hope)

The v4 ozone bar "click in" quick release is better than the click bar quick release, Ozones simple one hand "click in" is very good for all rope slider users, like me!
haven't found a hack yet to use Ozones "click in" quick release on the Duotone click bar, but never say never, I am still thinking about it

Foil
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Joined: Mon Oct 23, 2017 7:44 pm
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Local Beach: NewBrighton beach-Derby pool end,Wallasey, near Liverpool for 6 months in summer
Flag beach on fuerteventura for 6 months in winter.
Favorite Beaches: Flag beach fuerteventura, off season/6months
Home - NewBrighton,Rhosneigr, Ainsdale, Fleetwood, Newbrough
Style: improving foiler.
Gear: Groove Skate 120,carbon 2020 edition
101cm + 82cm Moses Carbon masts
Moses- 633/483 on a 701 fuse
Moses- 720 balz pro/425 on longer 739 fuse
Ozone Hyperlink V1 ultra light 5mtr
Ozone V2 Hyperlink 7mtr + 9mtr
Ozone Chrono V3 UL foil kite 11mtr
Ozone compact V4 bars,click in,23 mtr lines
duotone click bar 2020
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Re: Clickbar red safety line end cap removal

Postby Foil » Wed Aug 19, 2020 4:15 pm

Kitemenn wrote:
Wed Aug 19, 2020 3:32 pm
iriejohn wrote:
Wed Aug 19, 2020 3:07 pm
Instead of all the below stuff, how about simply using an Ozone V4 Water bar which has SK99 lines and a nice generic Clamcleat assembly?
Haters gonna hate. The Click bar itself is great, only downside are the lines (even in the 2021 model in my view) and the wear on the red front line! Foil just fixed this! I think it's awesome and Duotone should adapt this or Evan from Infexion should take it up in the assortment!
anybody thinking about this hack needs to be sure they are confident that they can get round the problem of preventing the line join jamming in the the long Pu tube, It needs to run freely through the long PU tube when the safety is fired off, I have explained how I have done it, but it wont work as well for some others if they bodge it, maybe someone like Evan from inflexion can come up with a sure 100% way of ensuring this "bump" in the line would never be a problem,
One way would be to just use a longer sacrificial SK99 500kg line up to the stopper ball of course, as there is a splice join under the ball, not yet investigated this join point but its there,
might give it a go next time if I convert someone else's bar, mines just fine.
yes it would work well!
Just feed the standard ozone line down through the pu tube, it has a standard line splice so easy and ready to loop around the mini stop ring in the plastic end cup.
then add in the needed 63cm of lost length at the premade splice under the red ball and replace the top spliced end length of line to the top end of the splices 63cm extra length, so easy! no brainer :thumb:
the SK99 sacrificial line that's been in place for a while now is showing much less wear than where the lines cross, during bar spinning and kite looping, maybe this means the main problem has been that thick softish red standard safety line after all.

even easier all round, :thumb:
unless I have missed something of course :roll:

so to summarize, parts needed --
a length of SK99 500kg line with spliced ends, exactly 63cm long (stretched hard)
a standard set of Ozone lines, around £125 or less for 23mtr -- (fronts 500kg) (rears 300kg)

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iriejohn
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Re: Clickbar red safety line end cap removal

Postby iriejohn » Wed Aug 19, 2020 5:04 pm

Kitemenn wrote:
Wed Aug 19, 2020 3:32 pm
iriejohn wrote:
Wed Aug 19, 2020 3:07 pm
Instead of all the below stuff, how about simply using an Ozone V4 Water bar which has SK99 lines and a nice generic Clamcleat assembly?
Haters gonna hate. The Click bar itself is great, only downside are the lines (even in the 2021 model in my view) and the wear on the red front line! Foil just fixed this! I think it's awesome and Duotone should adapt this or Evan from Infexion should take it up in the assortment!
I'm not a "hater", you missed the point ...
Foil wrote:very funny iriejohn :lol:
... but Foil didn't! :thumb:

Kitemenn
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Re: Clickbar red safety line end cap removal

Postby Kitemenn » Thu Aug 20, 2020 11:32 am

Foil wrote:
Wed Aug 19, 2020 4:15 pm
One way would be to just use a longer sacrificial SK99 500kg line up to the stopper ball of course, as there is a splice join under the ball, not yet investigated this join point but its there,
might give it a go next time if I convert someone else's bar, mines just fine.
yes it would work well!
Just feed the standard ozone line down through the pu tube, it has a standard line splice so easy and ready to loop around the mini stop ring in the plastic end cup.
then add in the needed 63cm of lost length at the premade splice under the red ball and replace the top spliced end length of line to the top end of the splices 63cm extra length, so easy! no brainer :thumb:
the SK99 sacrificial line that's been in place for a while now is showing much less wear than where the lines cross, during bar spinning and kite looping, maybe this means the main problem has been that thick softish red standard safety line after all.

even easier all round, :thumb:
unless I have missed something of course :roll:

so to summarize, parts needed --
a length of SK99 500kg line with spliced ends, exactly 63cm long (stretched hard)
a standard set of Ozone lines, around £125 or less for 23mtr -- (fronts 500kg) (rears 300kg)
I think the brilliance of your hack is that the small section where the wear takes place can be replaced frequently and that the longer piece can stay in place (where there is way less wear).

Anyway I still got the Duotone lower front lines and will keep an eye on the wear, but might be using your hack to either shorten the red line (cut out the section of the wear) and then making these replacement lines as you mentioned. :thumb:


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