Kite Repair Advice - Leading Edge and Bladder Damage

[brighamj]

Today was a sad day. I had a very mellow light wind session that ended with a freak accident. When I dropped my kite on the beach, the leading edge impacted and slid across a stick that was embedded in the sand and sharp enough to tear the leading edge of my Juice 15 and pop the bladder. This is a light duty kite by nature, granted, but I am a bit amazed at the amount of damage considering the circumstances.

I am completely green to kite repair of this nature and would really appreciate some advice. What I care about is the quality of the repair and not the aesthetic. If it looks good -- great, but that is absolutely not the priority. I am on an island, and sending it away for repair is not a simple option. The logistics and costs are painful. A DIY is my hope, but again, I am unsure of the best approach.

Please have a look at the photos. No matter what, I think I'll need a new bladder. This one is in tatters.

Thanks for any advice.

[GregK]

For a strong and durable fabric repair, the leading edge closure seam has to be opened at and a bit past the tear, and the scuff pad stitching removed and lifted so the repair patch can go under the scuff pad. Clean/degrease the fabric at the tear, dry it, trim away any loose fabric threads, align the tear edges, tape inside and out with Dacron sailtape, 3-step zig-zag stitch with bonded polyester the perimeter of the tape patch and close to either side of the tear, stitch the scuff pad back down, then reinforce & close the leading edge closure seam.

For the LE bladder, a new replacement is probably the best DIY approach.

[JakeFarley]

There should be a sail loft/shop on Bermuda that could possible repair the leading edge if you do not want to try to do it yourself (GregK's advice is spot on). They should have the materials and equipment to repair it. Then you can insert a new bladder yourself (there's loads of info on this forum and on YouTube on how to do it).

I know what it is like to have a kite damaged and you get real bummed out. Hope you get it fixed right.

[brighamj]

Thanks, fellas. That sail loft idea is where I landed too. After reading Greg’s post about the stitching involved, I figure letting a pro handle the thread work makes good sense. I’ll handle the bladder.

Appreciate the advice and kind thoughts!

[Trent hink]

For the bladder, you can make a decent repair with "Tear-Aid type a."

I once ruined the LE bladder on my week-old 2010 Cabrina trying to inflate it with a scuba tank and the incorrect nozzle. I removed it, laid ot flat and used this product, and the repair outlast the life of the kite.

It probably won't work if the tear goes through the bladder seam, but otherwise it should work well and you can save money over the cost of replacement.

[GregK]

For the bladder, you can make a decent repair with "Tear-Aid type a." ....

Maybe, if the width of the damage is less than 4 inches ( TearAid max width is 6 inches and needs at least an inch overlap on all sides for a reliable bond ). It must be applied smooth - no wrinkles in either the TearAid or bladder otherwise the wrinkles will likely become a leak path.

Also need about 1/2 inch of undamaged film at the bladder edge seam. For a first-time TearAid patching a bladder, probably best to replace it.

[Trent hink]

Maybe, if the width of the damage is less than 4 inches ( TearAid max width is 6 inches and needs at least an inch overlap on all sides for a reliable bond ). It must be applied smooth - no wrinkles in either the TearAid or bladder otherwise the wrinkles will likely become a leak path.

Also need about 1/2 inch of undamaged film at the bladder edge seam. For a first-time TearAid patching a bladder, probably best to replace it.

The packages of Tear Aid I have bought at my local hardware store come with a strip that is 12 inches long. I agree that it might be a bit riskier to use multiple lengths to cover a longer tear.

Yes, it is very important to lay the bladder flat and re-align the edges of the tear, then apply the tape with no wrinkles.

Cost will be less than 1/10th of what a new LE bladder costs, so it might be worth a shot.

[brighamj]

Maybe, if the width of the damage is less than 4 inches ( TearAid max width is 6 inches and needs at least an inch overlap on all sides for a reliable bond ). It must be applied smooth - no wrinkles in either the TearAid or bladder otherwise the wrinkles will likely become a leak path.

Also need about 1/2 inch of undamaged film at the bladder edge seam. For a first-time TearAid patching a bladder, probably best to replace it.

The packages of Tear Aid I have bought at my local hardware store come with a strip that is 12 inches long. I agree that it might be a bit riskier to use multiple lengths to cover a longer tear.

Yes, it is very important to lay the bladder flat and re-align the edges of the tear, then apply the tape with no wrinkles.

Cost will be less than 1/10th of what a new LE bladder costs, so it might be worth a shot.

So, I have done both. I ordered the new bladder, and I also ordered this 5’ roll of Tear-Aid on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Tear-Aid-Fabric- ... TTBSBDJG2G

In ordering both, I am trying to minimize downtime (it takes weeks to get stuff where I live), and I figure having it on hand for any future mishaps can’t hurt.

[GregK]

If over-lapping narrow pieces of TearAid, bevel the covered edge. A stepped edge will often develop a slow leak.

[revhed]

Sorry! Been there done that more than twice. three, four ect...
Get a seam ripper to save time and money.
Provide good light open le so tear ends can be sewed flat.
Remove bumpers if needed.
Most repair shops will charge much less if this is done as takes considerable time.
As said trim threads clean both sides.
Sometimes lighter can melt frayed edges, BE CAREFUL!!
I even have cut dacron strips and marked placement to save more time and cost.
Have also glued and hand sewn but wow the time....
As for bladder.
Be advised..
tear aide and blenderm do stick well if P U clean AND no folds OR seams for no leaks
B U T
and BIG ones!!
They do not stick well enough to them selves as in overlaps and every glue I have tested also does NOT stick making
sealing edge leaks almost impossible.
To make matters worse often you learn this after the fact with a limp L E during a session.
I have repaired MANY L E bladders with long complicated tears, rips always managed to get air tight.
I use aqua seal and seran wrap on glass in perfect light and mark with black magic marker.
Also start on the inside, then do outside, often in many steps.
This method allows overlap, on top patches to kill leaks!
Good luck!
If more info needed just ask!
Interesting the above post mentions tear aide over laps, has never worked in my tests.
Consider when the make if it needs to not stick to it self otherwise how to unroll if on.
And tear aide with super slick backing sheets, white, while seam like they will stick in over lap situation, I have had failures with or without aqua sure.
Just my experiences.
R H