Rebuilding Kite Control Bars (US)

[Windigo1]

I have been building and upgrading bars for a long time. I buy the Amsteel rope, Ronstan blocks, cleats etc.. at my local sailboat supply store. They have the exact same ones used on kite bars. I ordered a lot of chicken loops, floats etc.. from Switch they used to have good prices and decent hardware. If you learn to splice you can make everything look exactly like the original bars. I don't like PU coated depower rope myself I prefer the loose feeling of regular rope and I can replace it easily and cheaply.

[edt]

The hardest part to find is a new qr.

[watercamper]

You guys have helped a lot! Thanks. I wish I lived in a sailing spot! Then I could actually look at the piece and deduce how it works or at least ask someone. No stores to browse thru here! And the nearest kite shop is 6 hours. So I have to turn to you guys!

If I did want to use the TPU, where it available?

And, what about that coating on the leader lines? I've only used bars that had it so I guess it's necessary? And how do I reproduce that?

Lastly, when a knot terminates a piece of dyneema (using this word generically), I am afraid of it slipping thru the hole or slit (or maybe a stopper ball?). The ends of the original pieces on the bar seem to have some sort of black material attached somehow. What's happening here?

[supachip1]

i have been repairing a few old bars myself which are too good to scrap but not worth selling, parts are hard to find and also shipping is a pain, the few places around just want to sell a new bar.
i have used 12mm poly tubing for the chicken loops and Cab trim, and 8mm for the diqs. i just zip tied the diq's on and than filled the ends with hot glue. (air compressor pipe)
i've found some things on like, uhmwpe/Spectra Line, clam cleats, leash rings, SS rings, QR's, bars, swivel etc on aliexpress
for my north bars i used uhmwpe 3mm or 3.5mm for the strong middles & safety, 5mm for the trim/depower line, although it was tight to get through the actual chicken loop itself i expect when its softens it will be better (no used yet)
i was going to use the 1.4 & 1.6 mm 300kg uhmwpe for the flying lines but i don't need them just yet. i have copied the normal brummel splices and zig zag stitches but i will try some locking brummels next time.
the switch site seems to have a good selection and

[alford]

The hardest part to find is a new qr.

So true, at least without spending too much relative to the bar's worth. Plus, most QRs require a propraiaity PU covered depower line which makes cobbling together a diy system less attractive.

[watercamper]

The hardest part to find is a new qr.

So true, at least without spending too much relative to the bar's worth. Plus, most QRs require a propraiaity PU covered depower line which makes cobbling together a diy system less attractive.

Would the Infexion seat belt QR solve this problem? It looks like you could just add a ring to the bottom of the depower and you're done.

[alford]

The hardest part to find is a new qr.

So true, at least without spending too much relative to the bar's worth. Plus, most QRs require a propraiaity PU covered depower line which makes cobbling together a diy system less attractive.

Would the Infexion seat belt QR solve this problem? It looks like you could just add a ring to the bottom of the depower and you're done.

It absolutely does, if you don't unhook that is. They need to be shipped in from Europe. I think I saw one for sale on ebay however.