Sliding rope Harness - What if we used 3-5mm steel rope instead.

[Trent hink]

I have never owned a rope slider.

What does it take to change out the rope?

I'd like to imagine it takes 5 minutes and less than $5 worth of rope.

Now re-engineer it to take swaged steel wire...

What does that cost? How much extra does that weigh?

If I am wrong, someone please set me straight....

(It is true that I often underestimate the impact that the marketing department can have on the engineering department....)

[aidy makeando]

I have never owned a rope slider.

What does it take to change out the rope?

I'd like to imagine it takes 5 minutes and less than $5 worth of rope.

Now re-engineer it to take swaged steel wire...

What does that cost? How much extra does that weigh?

If I am wrong, someone please set me straight....

(It is true that I often underestimate the impact that the marketing department can have on the engineering department....)

Trent has got it in one.
Having worked with both wire rope and dyneema in various settings i can't think of any reason why it would be a good idea to use stainless steel rope on your slider bar
KISS principle is by far the best one, use a low friction ring if you feel the need to improve it

Aidy

[kct]

Little over a year ago I rigged up a pulley on my rope slider.

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=2408751

Zero wear on the rope so far. I don't think I'll ever have to replace it.

[galewarning]

@ket,
I also use the [now discontinued] RE slider bar. There are two versions: one with simple holes thru the bar and one with pressed-in grommets. The latter is prone to wearing [and corrosion] thru the grommets, which causes a sharp edge where the line passes thru the bar. Since most of the line wear is at these pass-through holes, I replace the line way before sliding of the bar causes any wear. The grommets were an 'upgrade' to make a more radiused hole, which unfortunately caused a new problem. The solution is to remove the grommets [like in the version of bar in your link below]. Try to do so without creating another sharp edge. After removing the grommets, I polish the edges of the holes with a Dremel tool and a polishing burr and/or lightly sand/file.
I hoarded about four of these bars, because the design is simple. I might try enlarging the holes to run the next size thicker line, which would increase the line's life.
-Barry
Edit: Adding... Over the line, I use the DaKine slider [having a conventional chicken loop hook], a stainless steel shackle and machined pulley and I'm about ready to try just a couple of simple stainless rings.

Little over a year ago I rigged up a pulley on my rope slider.

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=2408751

Zero wear on the rope so far. I don't think I'll ever have to replace it.

[thewindego]

20 years ago my brother replaced the chicken loop depower rope with stainless braid thinking it would last a long time. Wrong1not even one session and the friction turned it into a frayed sharp hazard. That was a best bar probably just carbon hole surface in bar. But anyway I say forget this idea as others have said.

[knot_moving]

What Herman said — I’ve used both a roller and an natal ring with dyneema slider rope. No visible wear at all in over 100 sessions

[rnelias]

I've been using a nylon friction ring made by a friend using a latche. Works flawlessly and the rope does not show any sign of wear

[lifeinthehood]

My question is, what is the problem that you’re trying to solve or improve upon by using SS instead of Dyneema?

[Foil]

don't use any old rope, check its dyneema, not some other line that will wear quickly, polyester line or cored line looks great (that looks like cored line above in that photo) better to use proper dyneema 4mm 12 Braid for example, it's durable and silly strong.
To check its Dyneema simple test is to give it the lip test, hold lightly between your lips and feel for the icy cold sensation that it gives you, if its a warm sensation its not dyneema,
also its not cheap.but lasts for years of hard use, the end knots must be sewn through with old thin kite line, and all ends melted, both sewing and melting the ends prevent slip, if you fail to sew through the knots then the knots will slip and give you a floppy line, or even slip off the end if armour coated line is used.

[rnelias]

...