Here you can exchange your experience and datas about your home build boards
-
downunder
- Very Frequent Poster
- Posts: 2814
- Joined: Mon Jul 01, 2013 7:16 am
- Gear: building my own
- Brand Affiliation: None
- Location: Perth, Australia
-
Has thanked:
153 times
-
Been thanked:
160 times
Postby downunder » Mon Aug 18, 2014 9:19 am
zob wrote:downunder wrote:No room for a press
It actually doesn't take much more space than a rocker table
A sheet of perspex stored behind a fridge is not taking any space
$5 for used one...
An proper press in AU can be easy about $5000.
-
zob
- Frequent Poster
- Posts: 476
- Joined: Tue Feb 24, 2009 1:43 pm
- Local Beach: Grado Pineta (IT), Fossalon (IT)
- Style: Freeride, strapless hooked-in
- Gear: FS S3 19m2 DLX, S3 CE 12m2 DLX & S4 8m2 DLX
Homemade Surf & Snow Boards
MBS Pro90
- Location: Iv.G.-Slovenia
-
Has thanked:
21 times
-
Been thanked:
3 times
-
Contact:
Postby zob » Mon Aug 18, 2014 4:56 pm
sinker wrote:
I just admit, getting rid of all that sanding for a final product is sweet.
-
JayP
- Rare Poster
- Posts: 3
- Joined: Wed Apr 10, 2019 8:56 pm
- Gear: Naish and cabrhina kite / boards
- Brand Affiliation: None
-
Has thanked:
4 times
-
Been thanked:
0
Postby JayP » Thu Apr 11, 2019 10:41 am
Hi everyone!
I’m new to this forum and I have to tell, there is a lots of really useful info here!!
Apparently building few boards and looking to make a pneumatic press as in the past the vacuum was not very successful to get details perfect on my designs :/
My main concern is how to get the channels on the bottom pressed properly??? If anyone could suggest any ideas would be great!
I found some heat resistant foam/sponge to put under and heat up the whole thing with a silicon heat mat, but not sure is that what I need.
Also thought to make a mould (reversed shape of the design) and press it that way but not sure....
I added few pic of the board so that will give an idea what I am on about
Thanks a lot !!!
-
Attachments
-
-
-
-
-
rynhardt
- Very Frequent Poster
- Posts: 979
- Joined: Wed Sep 11, 2013 3:51 pm
- Local Beach: Langebaan
- Favorite Beaches: Langebaan
- Style: Freeride
- Gear: Cloud C2 17
Hoff Twinwave
- Brand Affiliation: None
- Location: Johannesburg, South Africa
-
Has thanked:
25 times
-
Been thanked:
29 times
Postby rynhardt » Thu Apr 11, 2019 8:40 pm
That's a very pretty core.
- These users thanked the author rynhardt for the post:
- JayP (Fri Apr 12, 2019 10:58 am)
-
SWO_kite
- Medium Poster
- Posts: 128
- Joined: Wed Feb 12, 2014 11:57 pm
- Kiting since: 2011
- Local Beach: Belle River, Ontario, Canada
- Favorite Beaches: Yes
- Style: Foil/Freeride/Big air
- Gear: 11m Reedin SM V2, 8m & 6m SS Raptor
128 Shinn Sunburner + 75 AL-mast + K wing
140 Best Spark, 133 Cabrinha Caliber
- Brand Affiliation: None
-
Has thanked:
12 times
-
Been thanked:
21 times
Postby SWO_kite » Thu Apr 11, 2019 9:56 pm
That wood core looks so awesome. I hope you go with a clear finish to retain the look of the grain.
Good work team.
- These users thanked the author SWO_kite for the post:
- JayP (Fri Apr 12, 2019 10:58 am)
-
BWD
- Very Frequent Poster
- Posts: 3848
- Joined: Thu Jun 05, 2003 3:37 am
-
Has thanked:
2 times
-
Been thanked:
81 times
Postby BWD » Thu Apr 11, 2019 11:50 pm
Vac and press are for laminate consolidation, resin:fiber ratio, and often lower viscosity and higher temp cure resins.
Vac and press techniques can introduce as many problems in conforming glass to rails and channels as they solve. Plenty big vac bag and plenty of breather material may help.
What really helps is spray glueing the fiberglass to the channels before wetting it, and careful technique. More layers of lighter glass can also help. So can softer corners in the channels. They can be sharpened up with a thicker extra hot coat in the relevant areas later.
The design is cool looking, and looks like somewhat of a glassing challenge.
- These users thanked the author BWD for the post:
- JayP (Fri Apr 12, 2019 10:58 am)
-
JayP
- Rare Poster
- Posts: 3
- Joined: Wed Apr 10, 2019 8:56 pm
- Gear: Naish and cabrhina kite / boards
- Brand Affiliation: None
-
Has thanked:
4 times
-
Been thanked:
0
Postby JayP » Fri Apr 12, 2019 10:57 am
Thanks guys for the reply it was a good few weeks of hand craft after work, but totally worth every minute
and yes it will be clear finish just the size and a small logo will be on it!
Actually I am building a press now with heat blankets and hoping to get the channels and details done that way.
I might give a go to a spray glue and bag as I have 4 boards on the way in different sizes and shapes
-
Kevin Brooker
- Medium Poster
- Posts: 53
- Joined: Sat Nov 19, 2016 3:53 am
- Style: snow
- Gear: Home sewn
- Brand Affiliation: None
-
Has thanked:
0
-
Been thanked:
3 times
Postby Kevin Brooker » Fri Apr 12, 2019 12:35 pm
The I-beam press will allow you to shape the wood and ski building forums have great info on using them. If you resin infuse the laminates you have time to set the dry fabric (spray adhesive works great) and see if the vac is steady before adding resin. Infusion is also great since you can stop at any time as long as you have not added resin. Another way to get the cloth to follow the intricate contours is using a silicon mold which works great but not economical for one offs. If you can find a copy of Phil Barnes technique video for making RC sailplane wings it is extremely informative and does a wonderful job explaining how to wrap edges and with cloth and get it all to seat when using a vac bag.
- These users thanked the author Kevin Brooker for the post:
- JayP (Fri Apr 12, 2019 1:46 pm)
-
JayP
- Rare Poster
- Posts: 3
- Joined: Wed Apr 10, 2019 8:56 pm
- Gear: Naish and cabrhina kite / boards
- Brand Affiliation: None
-
Has thanked:
4 times
-
Been thanked:
0
Postby JayP » Fri Apr 12, 2019 3:58 pm
Kevin Brooker wrote: ↑Fri Apr 12, 2019 12:35 pm
The I-beam press will allow you to shape the wood and ski building forums have great info on using them. If you resin infuse the laminates you have time to set the dry fabric (spray adhesive works great) and see if the vac is steady before adding resin. Infusion is also great since you can stop at any time as long as you have not added resin. Another way to get the cloth to follow the intricate contours is using a silicon mold which works great but not economical for one offs. If you can find a copy of Phil Barnes technique video for making RC sailplane wings it is extremely informative and does a wonderful job explaining how to wrap edges and with cloth and get it all to seat when using a vac bag.
Thanks for your advice
I was thinking of a silicon mold and I have found one which withstand 270 Celsius so that might be the way forward.
-
Grkite
- Medium Poster
- Posts: 51
- Joined: Sun Dec 06, 2015 3:29 pm
- Local Beach: Paros - Pounda
Naxos-Mikri vigla
Mastichari-Kos
- Favorite Beaches: Paros-Pounda
- Gear: Cabrinha 2014 Vector 11
Cabrinha 2017 Switcblade 8
My handmade boards-HYPERION KITEBOARDS
- Brand Affiliation: None
-
Has thanked:
0
-
Been thanked:
0
-
Contact:
Postby Grkite » Mon May 20, 2019 6:17 pm
Crazy idea....Make a wood mold for both sides and press one core well with thin aluminium sheets to take the form you have wiith the channels and concave. It is not easy and think the accuracy that will be needed inside the corners of the channels. Also have in mind the heat blankets bending/distortion and probable destroy them when pressing them on that form with such angled surfaces of the channels of the bottom.. In addition excess of epoxy resin on the aluminium will need cleaning each time but ok thats quite easy with a heat gun and then alcohol. And also remember to have release channels in the negative mold to allow excess of epoxy to get out and not stick/accumulate on the rails or near or inside of your board. What I am saying may not work ....but may work. To simplify I would avoid of strange form on the top atleast that you have. Offcourse the best is to CNC aluminium molds but this is very expensive for both the material and cnc work....
Return to “Gear Builders”
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 113 guests