The Hoff bar

[KerryBara]

I thought from your cad vid that you had to dismantle the bar to adjust the rear lines, I see now that's not what you meant.

Also can't find the bar building forum?!!

[rynhardt]

Simpler is better.
I have a version for one line, one cleat, really relies on one key part.
I think it might be good -if the ergonomics feel ok....
My version: 1:1, single cleat/stopper in middle, outside the bar, single continuous line forms both rear leaders.

it's got less moving parts, less likely to clog too. Would you be able to live with the extra line dangling around?


P.s. I'm done feeding the troll.

[Toby]

I wonder how big the "button" would be to press it and move it?

I have experience with two bars that had the adjuster on the steering lines.

The kiteproshop bar and the X-Shooter Masterpiece bar.

The kiteproshop bar (world's first spinnable kite bar with a quick release (Wichard) had a simple system to depower the bar about 10 cm.
A loop with a ball was wrapped around the bar end. To depower the bar you simple slide the balls on the sides and you have 10 cm more. Worked really fast. For more power you needed to slide tha ball over the bar end...so you shortly had to steer the bar a bit to keep the kite straight. But no problem.

kiteproshop bar.jpg (32.21 KiB) Viewed 1670 times

The X-Shooter Masterpiece bar had adjuster build in both swimmers. No extra line, all was insde the swimmer. Worked pretty easy...but you also had to adjust one side than the other...but worked fine.

See in the below picture the red ball, this is the adjuster.

X-Shooter Masterpiece.png (312.56 KiB) Viewed 1670 times

[knot_moving]

Materials used ... aluminum ...

Using Aluminum in a high corrosion environment, where its performance has safety implications, requires very specialized knowledge and treatment - just do a search for the F-one bandit bars from about 5 years ago that were delivered untreated!
- I would not recommend using Al for pulley pivot point rods. It is probably not too difficult to find a house to anodize the overall Al bar structure for you & then just use stainless pins for attaching pulleys and pivot points.

[BWD]

Would you be able to live with the extra line dangling around?

That is the main question. I think it might be ok, especially if you aren't unhooking, but haven't built it yet.
It has to stay clear of the safety system.


<(o))))>>{

[rynhardt]

@BWD: The troll comment certainly wasn't meant for you. Apologies if it came out that way, I really should have posted that particular comment separately. Your comments are both valuable and appreciated, please keep them coming.

@Toby: Awesome. I didn't know these bars/systems even existed!

@knot_moving: Thanks, I'll take the aluminium components under advisement. For a prototype I'll probably still use aluminium just because it's so easy to work with, but for any real implementation I'll come back to the forum for advice.

[Toby]

@Toby: Awesome. I didn't know these bars/systems even existed!

they are old...KPS Bar 2002, Masterpiece 2003/2004 I think.

[BWD]

all good brotha me wheels a bit squikky today

[rynhardt]

I've made some design changes.. as in started over with another design.

This time round there is a single line reel sitting in the middle of the bar, that operates both rear lines simultaneously.
There is also a ratcheting mechanism with a pawl acting on the reel indents.

To power up, turn the reel clockwise to wind up the lines, and the pawl will auto-ratchet to prevent unwinding.
To power down, un-latch the pawl and let the line tension unwind the lines.
The indents on the reel is to provide control both ways.

I think I will attach the lines to the reel with an arbor knot. (Lines not shown)
The pawl will have a little bungee to provide the return tension. (Bungee not shown)

Top and bottom reel cage will be 2mm 316 S/Steel.
Reel will be either nylon or HDPE.
Bars will maybe be carbon tube - not sure about galvanic reactions with S/S though.
Bar ends will be 2mm 316 S/Steel.

The initial design used a fixed pivot axle, with the reel bearing on that, but given the conical hole required by the centre lines, the whole thing becomes very bulky very quickly. So I moved the bearing surface to the S/Steel cage and shrunk the reel down to an acceptable size.

The reel cage is an open design to facilitate cleaning and troubleshooting. A quick rinse should remove any sand.

The lines run through the middle of the reel, but I don't think the rotation will cause any issues with line wear, in any case no more than normal use.

As always, constructive feedback will be appreciated.

[KerryBara]

Looks better than the previous design, simpler and easier to maintain.

Only comments are:
1. I dont think yor design at the ends of the bar need to be so comllicated, could just be a tube to guide the lines
2. If the lines are under tension, how will you turn the reel? Do you think youll be able shorten the lines on ghe water, or only on the beach?