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Pocket board building

Here you can exchange your experience and datas about your home build boards
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downunder
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Re: Pocket board building

Postby downunder » Tue Jun 04, 2019 7:04 am

5 cm from where? Starting at 1/3 length wise from the nose? Or 1/4? or 1/2?

That's a lot of rocker not to expect a springback from 12mm thick wood. However, 4mm thick is another matter! 1 mm is, well, touchy :naughty:

How to get to 4mm (or 1mm)? Simple. 10 mins router job or thin blade saw from 12mm to 4mm every few centimeters. Less distance between cuts, better rounded outline.

Fill void with epoxy, bend, support, and slap some glass on top.

Profit.

stevez
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Re: Pocket board building

Postby stevez » Tue Jun 04, 2019 8:28 am

omg wrote:
Tue Jun 04, 2019 6:53 am
with these thinner, say 1cm wood sheets, how do you make the nose rocker, if you want for example 5cm? I mean if you glue 5 sheets on top of each other to the nose, how do you get the carve out the material from the topside, please? From the underside it's not problematic, just sanding, but topside is a different story?
Yeah, just bend it and glue the sheets together. 1cm is quite thick to bend, at least for paulownia sheets.
But with about 7mm you can easily get 5cm or more on a 1m board. Even 8mm you might get a reasonably gentle but significant rocker, so you could take the 1cm thick panels and sand them down or put them through a thicknesser to thin them a little, though they can be a little rough on paulownia.
On my last board I got 7cm rocker on a board 84cm long. I think I may even have overdone it slightly :!:
To minimise springback, leave it clamped in the bent position until you are ready to laminate.

teftelja
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Re: Pocket board building

Postby teftelja » Sat Aug 03, 2019 4:51 pm

Made my second board 120*43.5*2.7. Airex, carbon weight 2083g. Inserts for both legs. Rides very good. Stif as Rock
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merl
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Re: Pocket board building

Postby merl » Sun Aug 11, 2019 9:49 pm

Here is my ghetto build, I'm calling it Fugly-one.

Paulownia shelf 18mm from bauhaus (hardware store common across Europe). 1 x 300g glass + extra patches, with kerfing to get 7mm rocker from just under front foot.

I made so many mistakes I almost gave up.
  • Old epoxy still seemed to be working, but it was thicker and made it hard to wet out the glass.
  • Epoxy volume ratio is usually not the same as weight ratio even if the latter is not given!
  • 300g glass may be cheap and available but it is hard to wrap
  • Using plastic sheet as a poor man's vacuum is harder than it looks - maybe you need just the right kind otherwise you get bubbles and rough patches.
  • Leaving a board to cure in the sun is a bad idea (I got de gassing bubbles 6cm across which I had to cut out and fill
End result a very stiff 1.1m long log weighing 3.3kg.
Rides great.
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merl
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Re: Pocket board building

Postby merl » Mon Aug 12, 2019 2:42 pm

I have enough materials to make a version 2. What about the following refinements: Just 1x200g glass, with 15mm of the top deck routed out around the nose and replaced with some kind of foam eg bonocell.
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Not sure how the kerfing (bending by cutting slots and filling with epoxy) will work out after the routing though. I guess the kerf cuts have to be made first, but there might not be enough material left for the bend to set.

TomW
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Re: Pocket board building

Postby TomW » Wed Aug 14, 2019 5:50 pm

I've been looking for paulonia wood everywhere.
Thanks for the Bauhaus tip. They sell shelves up to 1750*500*18mm.
Now I'm not sure how to use it. I'd really like to find some 3mm thick planks...

merl
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Re: Pocket board building

Postby merl » Thu Aug 15, 2019 1:10 pm

Tom, my bit was 2200 long for SEK 319= two pocket boards.

I think downunder mentioned junksupply.com right on your doorstep. They have 10mm sheets, but my guess is that they will be hard to bend.

TomW
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Re: Pocket board building

Postby TomW » Thu Aug 15, 2019 5:15 pm

merl wrote:
Thu Aug 15, 2019 1:10 pm
Tom, my bit was 2200 long for SEK 319= two pocket boards.

I think downunder mentioned junksupply.com right on your doorstep. They have 10mm sheets, but my guess is that they will be hard to bend.
Yes. Pretty cheap!
I've been meaning to go visit junksupply. I've messaged with them. Also suspect 10mm is too thick. And much more expensive.

If I could get 2 mm paulonia, then I could sandwich 15mm divinycell H80 between top and bottom sheet of paulonia. Rails could be made my cutting out from those paulonia shelves and milled down. All sandwiched between the 2 mm paulonia. Two side rail parts, and nose, tail part. Less waste.
V- bag it all into a rocker form, shape rails.

Would be nice process. Might even get away with putting only 2 carbon strips on foam, under the wood skins. Then use oil or varnish only on the wood. No glass on the outside!
Would look like solid paulonia.

Other alternative is to stick with the balsa skins and rails, but have to use glass finish to seal and protect the balsa which is very soft.

I'm setting up a 1000*1500 cnc router this winter so easy to do once set up.


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