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Pocket board building

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Johnnyrotten204
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Re: Pocket board building

Postby Johnnyrotten204 » Thu Jan 28, 2021 6:21 am

I built a foilboard (90x42x1.6cm) with wood from my buddy's mill (western Red cedar). Started with 1x4 boards, chopped to length, glued together 2 layer bent lamination, cut outline. Drilled holes, filled with resin+microballoon, Fiberglass and epoxy 4 oz cloth, sand down and clean resin, last layer of resin, redrill holes, lay down deck pads.

Lessons learned: I did top side jointer, bottom side planer, jointer side and jointer other side- I should've done table saw for the last side.

This led to a slight error in the boards- slight mis alignment, and I pressed it together with my glue-up, but caused some minor warping in the wood.

I cut my length first- I should've left an extra 10cm or so extra, give some fudge factor.

I did an ad hoc press for the glue up- i did everything at the same time and it was a bit sloppy. In hindsight I think I would've created a mould for each set of boards then press each pair individually. Then glue the 5 sets together into the board shape.

Warped boards led to more work to sand the board flat, and even then it wasn't perfect. When I laid down the fiberglass there were some minor voids left. Suspect they're just cosmetic but could've done better.

Drilling/filling holes with microballoon: minor shape errors led to some perceived misalignment of the foil mounts. Just a couple degrees, but not perfect. Microballoon really expands the epoxy, I used a lot of resin with test batches... Could've used a much smaller amount.

First layer of resin is the most important by far. I used 6 oz of resin for my first layer. Seed to work well- first layer is just to get the cloth to stick to the wood flush, not to fill the coats.

I had the cloth float off the surface where it wasn't totally flat... Could've got a syringe and injected epoxy into the void, but didn't.

Poured way too much epoxy on my last coat on the bottom, just ended up sanding it off anyways.

Biggest drill bit in the shop was 3/8 for holes, should've used 1/2. When I went to redrill for 5/16 bolts ended up cutting into wood a bit and having to epoxy the wood to waterproof it.

So, in hindsight I burned a bit too much material on v1.0 but seems like it's a functional product.

Next step is taking it to the water and seeing if it'll snap in half!
Attachments
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Johnnyrotten204
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Re: Pocket board building

Postby Johnnyrotten204 » Tue Feb 02, 2021 11:18 pm

After a couple days use- works great, floats, goes downwind, tracks true, can do slight surface contact with rocker, seems watertight. Thanks for the dimensions- great starting point for this project.
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downunder
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Re: Pocket board building

Postby downunder » Wed Feb 03, 2021 2:27 pm

TomW wrote:
Sat Jan 16, 2021 7:32 pm
downunder wrote:
Sat Jan 16, 2021 2:52 am
But Tom,

you did not glass the board!?

My TT has 120g FG on bottom. And 200 on top to keep the rocker, plus carbon strips. 120g is invisible.

It is a tank. I do not see using 500g for that. But 150g!

I would even use lighter cloth, so adding 150g is nothing.

Better glas it coz even 18mm might crack. Plus, as I wrote, with glass on top and pell ply youll get fantastic grip. That grip is way way better than any cork.

https://youtube.com/shorts/NnPTH5Y7RkA



D.
If i laminate the board it takes 1m2 of glass. Say 165g glass ( what i have). Then add 180g epoxy. Then add 150g for filler coat, then 150g for final coat. Not counting that ill have to seal the wood with epoxy first that probably adds 150g too. 165+180+150+150= 645g.
I figure I sand off some of the epoxy, therefore 500g. Ive built like 20 boards, and my experience is these weights are fairly accurate.

Granted, it will be very strong. But adding that weight and 4 hours of work. Plus loose feeling of wood.
Sorry

This is not accurate. You can see the wieght on my builds, 120/42 cm board is around 1800 grams. And it is a tank.

Sealer 150g? This is nuts. Its 60g for both sides max. No need to seal it tho.

If u glassing 165g of glass with 180g of epoxy something is wrong. This is a hand layup, not a vacuum than. And Im using only vac.
There is not a single TT board that Ive used half a kilo of epoxy. And my boards were sold in a shop, on a shelf.

You did build boards, but not off P. wood. Hence all your numbers are off for the P. wood, that is.

And Im using only wood. Balsa drinks epoxy, Paulownia does not.

Your choice, let us know when it breaks. Or wont, who knows ;)

But as u said, next project will be glassed, Im really interested to read how much epoxy was used...

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Re: Pocket board building

Postby downunder » Wed Feb 03, 2021 3:05 pm

Johnnyrotten204 wrote:
Tue Feb 02, 2021 11:18 pm
After a couple days use- works great, floats, goes downwind, tracks true, can do slight surface contact with rocker, seems watertight. Thanks for the dimensions- great starting point for this project.
Nice man! I like cedar, uff the cedar smell...

Whats the weight in grams?

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Re: Pocket board building

Postby TomW » Fri Feb 05, 2021 7:33 pm

2021-02-02 21.52.10~2.jpg
Turned out really nice. Varnish only. 2,5 kg
Its a prototype, I will see how it holds up.
Theres uniD and plain weave carbon under both skins. 15kg foam inside.

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Re: Pocket board building

Postby Johnnyrotten204 » Fri Feb 05, 2021 9:11 pm

downunder wrote:
Wed Feb 03, 2021 3:05 pm
Johnnyrotten204 wrote:
Tue Feb 02, 2021 11:18 pm
After a couple days use- works great, floats, goes downwind, tracks true, can do slight surface contact with rocker, seems watertight. Thanks for the dimensions- great starting point for this project.
Nice man! I like cedar, uff the cedar smell...

Whats the weight in grams?
3.1 kg. Floats easily with LF Impulse foil/94.5cm mast. I think I might've put a bit too much resin on the bottom coats, but will be interesting to compare when I do v2.0.

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Re: Pocket board building

Postby Banjokite » Sun Apr 11, 2021 3:39 am

Hi Builders, I’m part way through a solid balsa core board, its 90x41x3cm before shaping the rails and nose (pictured), the centre area has 3 layers - 0 degrees, 45 degrees and 45 degrees, then two lengths of 0 degrees Along the rails (this design is because I have used scrap wood of different thicknesses, and only hand saw tools).
The current weight of the balsa core only is 1.8kg, which I think would put the density of this particular balsa wood towards the stronger end of the range of Balsa densities (though this includes the weight of the PVA glue and I could tell from cutting it that some of it was less dense than other parts).

I have 4 ounce single bias Basalt fibre cloth, 4.5 ounce double bias basalt cloth, and 75mm uni basalt cloth for the lay up.

Interested in advice for the lamination schedule for the least extra weight to achieve the necessary strength and stiffness. 85kg rider, free ride foiling.
I’ll be looking to use big head inserts for the foil mounting, with chopped fibre 20mm drill-outs between the hull and deck.

Possibly might use exposed 2mm cork deck pads. I know this won’t be the most efficient material combination for weight-saving instead of foam/carbon, but this an eco build orientation so the gains in other areas are relevant.

Cheers- Banjo
54A6E8FE-4A51-448D-B36F-60939180CCDC.jpeg
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Re: Pocket board building

Postby downunder » Sun Apr 11, 2021 1:23 pm

Hi

Dump basalt, too heavy any very difficult to work with around the rails.

3cm thick? Go with FG only 150g to get this wood shine.

Basalt is fine only for flat surface.

My 13mm full Paulownia with 2x200g only on top for bent rocker is 2.6kg.

So this is also a proof, for glassing only top of 120/45cm Paulownia board I used FG+epoxy = 300 grams.

The board before top glassing was 2.3kg.

Good luck.

D.

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Re: Pocket board building

Postby Banjokite » Sun Apr 11, 2021 10:06 pm

Thanks for your time Downunder, but as an eco build, the purpose of this board is to avoid carbon and E-glass to test the use of basalt fibre on a balsa core. The reason for this is the lower carbon and chemical footprint of basalt fibre and balsa wood. I’ll also test the workability around rails as there is a perception of it’s difficulty in lamination.
At the moment the blank core is 30mm, but I will be sanding down by 5mm-10mm to the regular 20mm thickness mark.
So, with basalt fibre being approximately 20% stronger than e-glass, if anyone can recommend a lamination schedule over solid balsa that would be great cheers

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Re: Pocket board building

Postby grandeand » Fri May 07, 2021 10:12 am

work in progres.
]Laminated the hull.
Two 200gr carbon patches of different sizes in the center of the table to cover the boxes and lamination with 200gr carbon and 160gr glass.
Uncovered the notches with milling machine and side guides.
Too bad I did not find them in black and that ugly black line that you see in the center of the table that I had done on the glass and I thought that laminating it would not be seen.
What do you think?
Screenshot_2021-05-07-10-40-17-219_com.miui.gallery.jpg
Screenshot_2021-05-07-10-40-30-527_com.miui.gallery.jpg
I use che future us box.
IMG_20210507_103928.jpg


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