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Pocket board building

Here you can exchange your experience and datas about your home build boards
Tone
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Re: Pocket board building

Postby Tone » Fri Feb 07, 2020 1:32 pm

tomtom wrote:
Wed Feb 05, 2020 1:26 pm
you must state board thickness - it is most important variable - without it info about laminate is meaningless. Thicker the board the less laminate and vice versa.
the board is 25mm.

TomW
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Re: Pocket board building

Postby TomW » Mon Feb 10, 2020 9:16 pm

The 650g is very heavy. With 80kg core you should get away with 200g x 2, with an extra layer top and bottom at rear 1/2. You can choose to add glass on top as sanding / impact protection, but not necessary. I'm talking about 120cm or under no straps.
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thewindego
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Re: Pocket board building

Postby thewindego » Mon Feb 10, 2020 9:26 pm

Yes the 650g is heavy but one layer bam done and its also very cost effective. Your suggestion is 3x200 in half the board so not much to saved there after you fair in the steps between the 2 and 3 layer parts. Cosmetics with the 650 is really nice too if you get it all down perfect. I would also say that 200g waaay easier to work with. I have done a ton of different boards over the years so can make the 650 work. Its just difficult on the rails. The main body of the board is easy. If I really was going to try and make some money on this I would probably go with a abs rail and press like a TT.

Tone
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Re: Pocket board building

Postby Tone » Wed Feb 12, 2020 9:51 am

This is how the bottom turned out. Going to do the top today I hope. It's quite cold here so need to get the workshop up to temp first!

Cheers for all the advice.
Attachments
85152666_10157728738321070_1921944010365075456_o.jpg

thewindego
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Re: Pocket board building

Postby thewindego » Wed Feb 12, 2020 2:55 pm

Looks great!
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grandeand
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Re: Pocket board building

Postby grandeand » Sun Mar 22, 2020 1:26 pm

merl wrote:
Sun Aug 11, 2019 9:49 pm
Here is my ghetto build, I'm calling it Fugly-one.

Paulownia shelf 18mm from bauhaus (hardware store common across Europe). 1 x 300g glass + extra patches, with kerfing to get 7cm rocker from just under front foot.

I made so many mistakes I almost gave up.
  • Old epoxy still seemed to be working, but it was thicker and made it hard to wet out the glass.
  • Epoxy volume ratio is usually not the same as weight ratio even if the latter is not given!
  • 300g glass may be cheap and available but it is hard to wrap
  • Using plastic sheet as a poor man's vacuum is harder than it looks - maybe you need just the right kind otherwise you get bubbles and rough patches.
  • Leaving a board to cure in the sun is a bad idea (I got de gassing bubbles 6cm across which I had to cut out and fill
End result a very stiff 1.1m long log weighing 3.3kg.
Rides great.
20190808_114548.jpg
20190808_115732.jpg20190715_130809.jpg
This your table is very beautiful and functional ...
I also have a board of pawlonia 130 # 50 and I would like to make a table like yours ...
to maintain the flexural strength I wanted to bend it with steam, but I would have to build a crate and then it takes steam to soften it ... but it's a bit too laborious ...

In your opinion, in the cutting area, will you have less resistance to bending or breaking than having the table curved with steam? Not so close to the bow, but especially near the center of the table (first fold).

Also, how deep and how often is the cut?
Did you just put him resin and microspheres?

merl
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Re: Pocket board building

Postby merl » Sun Mar 22, 2020 6:40 pm

Hi

Have a look at the picture of my second version. Starts at 10cm distance and reduces to about 5 near the nose. I used the smallest router bit that I could find. It worked but there could be better ways.
20200322_182758.jpg
20200322_182828.jpg
I used epoxy thickened with bubbles. It is easier if it is a bit runny.

I don't think you need to worry about the strength if you are using glass. Steaming looks very difficult.

grandeand
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Re: Pocket board building

Postby grandeand » Mon Mar 23, 2020 7:07 pm

Thanks a lot for your answer ..
what depth of cut?
I read that you have to cut at least 2/3 of the thickness, so if it is 18 mm thick, you have to cut at least 6mm.
in a forum italy, a friend instead told me no more than 3 mm, otherwise folding it becomes more difficult.
He also advised me to put a 150-180 g glass fabric in the hull, because when trying to fold over the cut, the wood could be damaged.

merl
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Re: Pocket board building

Postby merl » Mon Mar 23, 2020 7:48 pm

From the picture you can see that I cut down to about 3mm. If it is thick I think that it will snap rather than bend. You will soon see that you can't bend 10cm paulownia. You need to glass the board for sure.

grandeand
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Re: Pocket board building

Postby grandeand » Tue Mar 24, 2020 6:53 pm

guys, I'm going to make a board with pawlonia 18 mm by 120 # 47 ...
what advice do you give for attaching the column to the table?
through holes, bushings or other?
possibly explain the processing method to me.
Thank you


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