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Pocket board building

Here you can exchange your experience and datas about your home build boards
merl
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Re: Pocket board building

Postby merl » Fri Jan 15, 2021 10:23 am

Pricewise you are 100% right about Paulownia in EU. (Btw, is there a simple way of thinning the planks or do you need specialist machinery?)

But I'm curious about the banova balsa mentioned - 200kg/m3 vs 260kg/m3 for Paulownia - but is surely going to be expensive and hard to find in EU. [Edit: it seems that banova is or was a product of 3A composites, makers of other high tech core materials but it is nolonger on their product list https://www.3accorematerials.com/en/products - in any case this means that it will probably be more expensive than HD foam]

downunder wrote:
Fri Jan 15, 2021 2:01 am
Are you guys in the EU not visiting Bauhaus?

Bauhaus Paulownia panels are super cheap there. Something we in Australia do not have in Bunnings which is the main shop here. To be fair, we in AU have only a few sources of Paulownia and shipping is a massive price part.

Here:
https://www.bauhaus.dk/hylde-paulownia- ... x400x18-mm = AU$11 for which I can't by anything....
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dericcio2
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Re: Pocket board building

Postby dericcio2 » Fri Jan 15, 2021 9:33 pm

well ... i will kite on lake of beer , then my board won t blame me :lol:
downunder wrote:
Fri Jan 15, 2021 2:14 am
dericcio2 wrote:
Wed Jan 13, 2021 6:23 pm
well I understand, pawlonia winning combination means: stiffness + lightness with less glass (and wood looking)
considering the material I have already in my garage and no big advantage for me using paulownia I switch my project from no volume to low volume : 2cm+2cm XPS + 3x200 GF + 3x200 GF calculated weight around 2,5kg good enough for me..
Here is the problem,

many DIY boards with XPS drink water ;) That is your worst enemy. Even half-pro buddy who had board businesses, have issues with xps.

You might be of better luck tho.

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Re: Pocket board building

Postby TomW » Fri Jan 15, 2021 11:20 pm

Hi, ive built solid balsa boards from 6-8mm x 100x1000mm planks. Its cheap and available in Europe from " hobby" and radio controlled airplane builder hobby supply.
Problem is balsa is super soft and sucks water like a sponge, and disintegrates if it get wet. You must laminate over it to protect and get out of water immediately if you crack or ding laminate.

Using the 18mm paulownia from Bauhaus, its much more work, but not too bad. I cut up 18x600x1200 plank into 4 pieces, 18x300x1100. Glued 3 of them into 54x300x1100 block. Sliced off 3mm strips from that on table saw. Edge glued 3x54x1100 strips with CA glue dots. Used 2 skins with layered rails with carbon between skins and eps.
You can see my pics in previous post. Thanks to other builder for the method!

It weighs about 2,2kg now.

Making test pieces of different wax, oil, varnish and one component pu varnish to find best finish without lamination on outside. Testing ongoing, have one more option to test.
One already looks like it will work. BUT, i can say already that paulownia is not that hard. I can put groove in it with fingernail fairly easily. It doesn't break the varnish layer, but the wood gets a groove. The boards will need to be treated with care. You cant just throw them in your car or drag them around on the beach.
Only way around this is to use a glass laminate, but that would be a real shame, add 500g and bring back the boring part of board building.

I think with a little care and some re- varnish once a year ( hej its wood!!) They will last a long time and get a beautiful patina.

Next build i will use glass fiber, not carbon as it is overkill. I hade 1/4 of the plank, which cost 36€, left over, plus quite a few extra strips. So entire build is really cheap in materials. 1m2 glass, maybe 0,5 kg epoxy with waste. Finish varnish 10€. Bigheads 4x 3€.

Another way to do this would be to completely eliminate the paulownia deck skin, and put 2x glass on top of foam core and full cork deck on top of that. Would have to use slightly higher density foam core though.

CNC is running now, so plan on milling parts and modify method to reduce need for so many rail parts. Might even be able to mill entire bottom and rails as one part, and only skin deck.

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downunder
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Re: Pocket board building

Postby downunder » Sat Jan 16, 2021 2:52 am

But Tom,

you did not glass the board!?

My TT has 120g FG on bottom. And 200 on top to keep the rocker, plus carbon strips. 120g is invisible.

It is a tank. I do not see using 500g for that. But 150g!

I would even use lighter cloth, so adding 150g is nothing.

Better glas it coz even 18mm might crack. Plus, as I wrote, with glass on top and pell ply youll get fantastic grip. That grip is way way better than any cork.

https://youtube.com/shorts/NnPTH5Y7RkA



D.

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omg
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Re: Pocket board building

Postby omg » Sat Jan 16, 2021 8:10 am

What are your thoughts on doing a semi-hollow PVC/EPS 60 or 80kg/m3 board, ie. full bottom and deck foam plates but between them, you would glue full length (length wise) strips of the foam? Then board wrapped in carbon? Would that work or not?
This would be for building wingboard as there's much more foam material included.

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Re: Pocket board building

Postby thewindego » Sat Jan 16, 2021 3:51 pm

delete

TomW
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Re: Pocket board building

Postby TomW » Sat Jan 16, 2021 7:25 pm

omg wrote:
Sat Jan 16, 2021 8:10 am
What are your thoughts on doing a semi-hollow PVC/EPS 60 or 80kg/m3 board, ie. full bottom and deck foam plates but between them, you would glue full length (length wise) strips of the foam? Then board wrapped in carbon? Would that work or not?
This would be for building wingboard as there's much more foam material included.
You are better off using low density foam and skinning with laminate-3mm hd foam- laminate. Because if you do it the way you are talking about, the foam skins will have to be 10mm thick( and laminated on both sides.) Sit down with your calculator and work out the weights. My gut tells me it will weigh less with 15kg foam core with thin skins.

TomW
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Re: Pocket board building

Postby TomW » Sat Jan 16, 2021 7:32 pm

downunder wrote:
Sat Jan 16, 2021 2:52 am
But Tom,

you did not glass the board!?

My TT has 120g FG on bottom. And 200 on top to keep the rocker, plus carbon strips. 120g is invisible.

It is a tank. I do not see using 500g for that. But 150g!

I would even use lighter cloth, so adding 150g is nothing.

Better glas it coz even 18mm might crack. Plus, as I wrote, with glass on top and pell ply youll get fantastic grip. That grip is way way better than any cork.

https://youtube.com/shorts/NnPTH5Y7RkA



D.
If i laminate the board it takes 1m2 of glass. Say 165g glass ( what i have). Then add 180g epoxy. Then add 150g for filler coat, then 150g for final coat. Not counting that ill have to seal the wood with epoxy first that probably adds 150g too. 165+180+150+150= 645g.
I figure I sand off some of the epoxy, therefore 500g. Ive built like 20 boards, and my experience is these weights are fairly accurate.

Granted, it will be very strong. But adding that weight and 4 hours of work. Plus loose feeling of wood.

TomW
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Re: Pocket board building

Postby TomW » Mon Jan 18, 2021 11:25 pm

CollageMaker_20210118_231409968.jpg
CNC up and running! Cut a logo in cork pad material as first test. I'm super stoked. It was a lot of learning for me with all the electronics and wiring and learning Duet code. At least the CAD/CAM part was easier for me.

Machine is Workbee 1500*1000 with 1,5kw air-cooled spindle ( that spindle took me 2 months to figure out how to wire it ).

Getting set up to mill a paulownia plank to make bottom and rails in one piece, low density foam core and drop a skin on top. Put some carbon UniD inside and some glass between skins and core.

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Re: Pocket board building

Postby pixelicous » Tue Jan 26, 2021 4:09 pm

Would be cool to see a follow up


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