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Pocket board building

Here you can exchange your experience and datas about your home build boards
junebug
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Re: Pocket board building

Postby junebug » Fri Apr 12, 2019 9:58 am

So I tried my home build out yesterday. 34 x 15.5 x 1. Turns out I mounted the foil way too far forward for my liking. I put the back of the plate (Lift 150) about 4 inches from the back of the board, which is where I have it in my dwarfcraft. It felt like I was constantly fighting the lift even with my front foot at the front of the deck pad. I’m not sure why, but it did feel like my stance was narrower on the home build.

Any suggestions on (1) how far back I should move the mast (I’m thinking at least 2 inches but maybe more) and (2) techniques for (a) putting in the new inserts and (b) getting out the ones that are placed improperly? I did SS t-nuts as inserts, and I would like to do that again. I hate drilling through a finished board, but the reality is I’m not going to use it in its current state.

Pic below:

Image

stevez
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Re: Pocket board building

Postby stevez » Fri Apr 12, 2019 10:20 am

junebug wrote:
Fri Apr 12, 2019 9:58 am
So I tried my home build out yesterday. 34 x 15.5 x 1. Turns out I mounted the foil way too far forward for my liking. I put the back of the plate (Lift 150) about 4 inches from the back of the board, which is where I have it in my dwarfcraft. It felt like I was constantly fighting the lift even with my front foot at the front of the deck pad. I’m not sure why, but it did feel like my stance was narrower on the home build.

Any suggestions on (1) how far back I should move the mast (I’m thinking at least 2 inches but maybe more) and (2) techniques for (a) putting in the new inserts and (b) getting out the ones that are placed improperly? I did SS t-nuts as inserts, and I would like to do that again. I hate drilling through a finished board, but the reality is I’m not going to use it in its current state.
My latest board is 33" x 17.5" and squarer than yours, so a bit more volume at the front. I've got the the rear insert 2 inches from the back, so the back of the plate is really at the back of the board, or maybe an inch in front. That's where it needs to go.

Are your t-nuts epoxied in? If so, I'd just leave them there. I suppose there are quite a few options with the new ones. Which t-nuts are you using? Are they the ones with teeth that grip in. The easiest and crudest would be to drill holes and putting in new inserts through the deckpad. Would be ugly. Better if you could lift the deckpad, drill holes and put in inserts, then glue deckpad back on.
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junebug (Fri Apr 12, 2019 10:31 am)
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junebug
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Re: Pocket board building

Postby junebug » Fri Apr 12, 2019 10:30 am

stevez wrote:
Fri Apr 12, 2019 10:20 am
junebug wrote:
Fri Apr 12, 2019 9:58 am
So I tried my home build out yesterday. 34 x 15.5 x 1. Turns out I mounted the foil way too far forward for my liking. I put the back of the plate (Lift 150) about 4 inches from the back of the board, which is where I have it in my dwarfcraft. It felt like I was constantly fighting the lift even with my front foot at the front of the deck pad. I’m not sure why, but it did feel like my stance was narrower on the home build.

Any suggestions on (1) how far back I should move the mast (I’m thinking at least 2 inches but maybe more) and (2) techniques for (a) putting in the new inserts and (b) getting out the ones that are placed improperly? I did SS t-nuts as inserts, and I would like to do that again. I hate drilling through a finished board, but the reality is I’m not going to use it in its current state.
My latest board is 33" x 17.5" and squarer than yours, so a bit more volume at the front. I've got the the rear insert 2 inches from the back, so the back of the plate is really at the back of the board, or maybe an inch in front. That's where it needs to go.

Are your t-nuts epoxied in? If so, I'd just leave them there. I suppose there are quite a few options with the new ones. Which t-nuts are you using? Are they the ones with teeth that grip in. The easiest and crudest would be to drill holes and putting in new inserts through the deckpad. Would be ugly. Better if you could lift the deckpad, drill holes and put in inserts, then glue deckpad back on.
Yeah, the t-nuts are epoxied in. They have teeth but I straightened them out before inserting them. I can just leave them in, although it probably adds a little weight. Probably negligible.

I’m thinking of doing what you say, but I’ve never drilled through glass. Should I start drilling at the bottom (or top), go halfway, and then start drilling on the other side? Do I need to do any additional glassing around the new holes on the board?

stevez
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Re: Pocket board building

Postby stevez » Fri Apr 12, 2019 11:20 am

I think you will find a drill goes through the glass really easily. Start with small holes to begin with to get a feel for it, and then drill it wider. I think you can drill straight through.
I don't think you need any additional glassing. What I did on my board was drilled the holes slightly bigger than they needed to be, then stuffed in some extra epoxy with microfibres mixed in into the gap to reinforce it a bit. I screwed in the bolts, covered with petroleum jelly, from underneath to keep the insert threads clear. That worked for me. I know there are other alternatives. I'm hardly the expert - maybe someone more experienced can chime in with better advice. At the very least you want to seal any exposed wood and any exposed laminate.
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junebug (Fri Apr 12, 2019 2:39 pm)
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junebug
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Re: Pocket board building

Postby junebug » Fri Apr 12, 2019 12:15 pm

Yeah, I’m not worried about being able to drill through the glass. I’m more worried about drilling all the way through the board and when the drill hits the backside of the glass it forms “tee pee” and splinters and screws up the glass on the other side.

stevez
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Re: Pocket board building

Postby stevez » Fri Apr 12, 2019 12:37 pm

junebug wrote:
Fri Apr 12, 2019 12:15 pm
Yeah, I’m not worried about being able to drill through the glass. I’m more worried about drilling all the way through the board and when the drill hits the backside of the glass it forms “tee pee” and splinters and screws up the glass on the other side.
If you're concerned you could push it against a block of wood so it drills into the wood on the other side on the way out.
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junebug (Fri Apr 12, 2019 2:39 pm)
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tomtom
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Re: Pocket board building

Postby tomtom » Fri Apr 12, 2019 12:38 pm

naaah :), how do you think they make holes in commercial TTs. Just use couple of drills - size up. And do it from bottom so you cover some messups under T-nut - and as says do it with block of wood on other side.
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junebug (Fri Apr 12, 2019 2:39 pm)
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tmcfarla
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Re: Pocket board building

Postby tmcfarla » Fri Apr 12, 2019 2:02 pm

On the board I made, I had to add additional inserts after finishing. I drilled from the top deck, leaving the bottom skin intact. It has held up well so far. The only downside was having to cut some of the traction pad out to drill the holes.
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junebug (Fri Apr 12, 2019 2:39 pm)
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BWD
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Re: Pocket board building

Postby BWD » Fri Apr 12, 2019 2:20 pm

Tactics to avoid lifting or cracking glass when through drilling:
Use sharp bits
Use a scrap board under the board you are drilling to support the lower glass skin as the drill goes through it.
Use a drill stop or a router to make a hole that stops at or just shy of the glass.
Or drill a small pilot hole all the way, then a shallow full width hole from each side, then ream it out to full width...
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junebug (Fri Apr 12, 2019 2:38 pm)
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jumptheshark
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Re: Pocket board building

Postby jumptheshark » Fri Apr 12, 2019 3:02 pm

Regarding putting new t nuts in and not ruining your deck pad:

I used an apple corer to cut a perfect circle just a bit bigger than the T nut. Removed the circular plug of pad, shaved a little thickness off the bottom because the T nut does not go in perfectly flush. Insert the T nut with enough epoxy or glue to seal everything, then glue the deck pad plugs back on top. Worked great, and now I have an apple core remover too!


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