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5th line low V convert to high V (North)

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kjorn
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Re: 5th line low V convert to high V (North)

Postby kjorn » Sat Mar 09, 2019 10:18 pm

edt wrote:
Sat Mar 09, 2019 2:27 pm
Kjorn the only way to know for sure is to try it. Go ahead and do that lark's head thing on a stainless steel ring try both ways see how it works.
This is my first Rebel (used 2014) so I've no idea how it flies yet. I've spliced a loop into my 5th line and larks head a ring onto it at 13m from kite. Then I've run the other two power lines up through the ring (thanks for the advice everyone!!)

I'll make sure it rides okay like that, then I can experiment with a low V once I know how the kite is supposed to feel.

Off topic -- anyone else get a big frightened in high 30moh+++ winds riding your own kit? I have a home brew bar, depower, bridles etc.... all those spices and hand sewn pig tails, patched bladders, changed one-pump systems.

Ugh, I love doing it and breathing new life into ancient old kites and old bars, but HELL it makes my heart pump 200% faster when I'm 12m up hoping it all stays together :)

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BillyGoatGruff
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Re: 5th line low V convert to high V (North)

Postby BillyGoatGruff » Sat Mar 09, 2019 10:21 pm

Quite a good thread on the subject.

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=2394505


I use one Naish bar on all torch's, the "Y" split is always the same distance (11m up the centre line). Torch = 24m Outside lines, one centre line 11m and front lines 13m, the pivot point changes with different "Y" split point length:

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Re: 5th line low V convert to high V (North)

Postby winduser » Sat Mar 09, 2019 10:43 pm

@kjorn I did a modification on my bar but I did not used the fifth line . I used a front line to put the ring. The fifth line have to be free because is it your safety. Please put a diagram of your lines so you could have advice.

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edt
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Re: 5th line low V convert to high V (North)

Postby edt » Sun Mar 10, 2019 2:17 pm

kjorn wrote:
Sat Mar 09, 2019 10:18 pm
edt wrote:
Sat Mar 09, 2019 2:27 pm
Kjorn the only way to know for sure is to try it. Go ahead and do that lark's head thing on a stainless steel ring try both ways see how it works.
Off topic -- anyone else get a big frightened in high 30moh+++ winds riding your own kit? I have a home brew bar, depower, bridles etc.... all those spices and hand sewn pig tails, patched bladders, changed one-pump systems.

Ugh, I love doing it and breathing new life into ancient old kites and old bars, but HELL it makes my heart pump 200% faster when I'm 12m up hoping it all stays together :)
I feel safest flying my own control bars because I can rely on them. As for kites when a kite gets old enough they can just explode for no reason and it's nerve wracking flying them in gnarly conditions. So yeah home brew bar makes me feel safer but an old kite doesn't.

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Re: 5th line low V convert to high V (North)

Postby kjorn » Sun Mar 10, 2019 6:07 pm

winduser wrote:
Sat Mar 09, 2019 10:43 pm
@kjorn I did a modification on my bar but I did not used the fifth line . I used a front line to put the ring. The fifth line have to be free because is it your safety. Please put a diagram of your lines so you could have advice.
There is a new loop spliced into the 5th, the ring is tied to that. The front lines go through it.

I tested it today and it works. Releasing it keeps me connected to the 5th, the other lines are pulled by the kite up through the ring.

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Re: 5th line low V convert to high V (North)

Postby kite_hh » Fri Mar 15, 2019 4:31 pm

kjorn wrote:
Fri Mar 08, 2019 1:38 am
How should I attach the ring to the line? Larks head? Tie a pig tail to the O ring, attach the pig tail to the line? Can you think of any issues with this idea?
In pic 1: instead of using larks head (which didn't stay in place) you could use a stopper knot

In pic 3: looks like it is somewhat spliced into the power lines. Splicing is what north/DT does on their clickbar. Be aware that this will shorten one of your lines by a bit. If necessary you can counteract by splicing in on the other line as well. Also maybe a fe stitches are in order to keep it safe.

Many ways to achieve it. I went with the stopper knot, because it is flexible, doesn't compromise on the line strength and can even be removed completely without a big hassle.


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